Ill start this off with a question. How is the caster adjusted on our ef's. To my understanding as I was told to me by an elder at another alignment shop. It is done by adding shims or washers. I went to another alignment shop near me and this guy immediately asked if I had replaced the bushings when I replaced the radius rod that had snapped. *fyi referring to the rubber bushings that go where the radius rod meets the front crossmember. I said no they looked fine to me and the bushings on the other side are just as old and they seem to be alright. He replied most likely those bushings are worn out. I replied aren't you going to add ships anyway to adjust the caster. He replied who ever told you that is full off shyt. I ordered the new stinkin bushings but if you guys can confirm he is or isn't the one full of shyt. Then ill continue with him or go someplace else.

 

.

 

Camber in rear can be adjusted via washers and longer bolts to UCA's. The front is only toe adjustments from factory. If you have an aftermarket crossmember or traction bar caster will then be adjustable. Camber in the front requires a kit replacing the UCA as well.

 

The caster is not meant to be adjustable on the CRX. If it is out of spec is either because of a bent radius rod, damage to the suspension arms, or a crash that moved the front cross member out of position. Not knowing if any of those applies, it's hard to tell what needs to be done.
I think it's possible to adjust it by adding washers, but that could bring another set of problems like binding or doing damage to the bushings.

 

go with the 2nd guy, shouldn't have to shim anything

 

I work for an auto shop we just played around on my 90 si hatch doing an alignment it was easy, new bushing up front helped mine and just a toe in. Other then that I would not try shimming the traction bar, I did get new strut mounts and struts as well it always helps,the rear are adjustable from the front of the trailing arms, but I also have full adjustment camber stuff to help get it in spec.

 

I have rear camber kits and front upper uca's for camber too but am currently factory angles. what about using these radius rods I got off a late 80's accord. Because I do know the relevant area of my sub frame is not what I would consider "clean title" they are adjustable. Lmk if you want to see more pictures.

 

If your going as far as requiring adjustable radius rods I would go for a traction bar which replaces the factory cross member and radius rod setup.

Is your suspension off from factory specifications?

 

Yea I could but that's 200$ I can't afford that after spending that same amount tonight for a si head and trans. And I already have the adjustable radius rods in my possession. The only thing is the bolt holes on the rod to the lca are 14mm. I'm considering picking up the lcas from the accord I got them from. If there the same

 

Off from factory spec I guess I don't want to admit it but if my caster of off it has do with the junk yard marks on the rank n pinion and the lca on the side that my radius rob snapped and welding marks on the rod around where it bolts to the lca. And the story of the guy telling me it blew a tire on that side. Unknown ****. Its my Car so now its my problem

 

I'm 99% sure accord LCAs will not help you. Find good used parts, either stock or aftermarket.

 

today i compared the 87 accord lcas with ef and they looked almost identical. the bushing where the strut bolts to the lca was larger and possibly just a hair farther out than the ef but as for those things they looked the same in length. using the accord lcas would allow me to use its adjustable radius rods it came with because its radius rod bolts to its lca by use of a 14mm bolt and not the standard 17mm that we use.

 

If caster is out badly then most likely something is bent. If caster is close to the same reading (~1/2 degree) for both sides (cross caster) you are fine. If you wanted to start tweaking with caster a set of traction bars are a great add-on. For those not replacing with traction bars, replacing the old busings is a good idea.

 

I need to find my alignment print out.I don't want to buy a traction rod setup and trade steel for aluminium . I think his accord setup is going to work and I already ordered new bushings. They should be in today.

 

Ok reply with numbers so I can take a look. Does the car have an abnormal pull to it when driving it?

 

I would say that if you had alignment issues, you probably should have spent your money on fixing that instead of buying a head and tranny (unless it's a project car that needs all of the above to be driven, in which case I'll shut my mouth).