I have an eg hatch with a completely stock b18c5 block & gsr head matched with an ls tranny. I was hoping to get some advice on what would be best to go with, N/a, boost, or N/a nitrous as next year im planning on building the block and I want the most reliable power possible for a daily on 92 octane pump. Specs on the build:
Ported Gsr head
Skunk2 Pro2 cams
Edelbrock adjustable cam gears
Supertech valve springs and retainers
Stock valves
Arp head studs
Tri Y rep header
Skunk2 pro Intake mani
Skunk2 70mm Intake mani
450 black top dsm injectors
NGK plugs and wires
Walboro 255 fuel pump
Golden Eagle fuel rail
AEM v2 CAI
Exhaust cutout so pretty much open header
Stock b18c5 block
Tuned on ectune, 92 oct. pump gas made 215.3whp
Haven't ran it on a track, and I know the ls tranny kills my acceleration

If I go N/a I want to go with the Myer's competition header, I just don't know what to do with the block, I will be at least replacing the valve stem seals in the head and maybe a diff. valve setup as well as hondata s300. I don't know anything about boost though and little about nitrous. I was hoping for input on what to go with and cost of doing it as well as possible hp achievable? Maybe track times I could get on drag radials or slicks? I will have a traction bar by this time

 

keep it na and get a 4.9 final drive, youll love it.

 

Absolutely!!

 

Find a B16/ITR tranny w/ LSD and move on from the LS. Having that tranny make your build like dating a butterface. It's got all the good parts, but...you fill in the rest.

If this is a true daily setup, I WOULD NOT go past a 4.7FD. No one needs a daily that turns 4500rpm @ 60mph. 4.7 is already short for a daily.

Keep it NA though, reliability is uncanny with them. When your at the track I'd run a 22" slick on a 13-14" wheel.

If you want to really bring those cams to life, get some high comp pistons.

 

NA is my absolute addiction, don't get me wrong boost is fun and who doesn't love nitrous, but building and designing horsepower, torque and manipulating a powerband that suits your intentions is my fascination. No matter what route you go do it right and do your research. 215whp is actually a very respectable number for what you have got so far. Since you will be dependant on 92 octane this makes your build fun and interesting, I love those kind of builds, best advice I can give is measure and calculate every factor don't believe a number till you personally see it for yourself, that is one big issue I see everytime a "builders" doesn't take the time to verify numbers. I took apart a guys build yesterday to measure everything and get him a his true compression ratio, it ended up being slightly over 13:1 he was originally told by a different shop that it would be ok to run on 91 octane because they claimed it would fall under 12:1 . Best of luck and keep us posted on this build.

 

If you go with 4.7fd, you could use LS 5th gear for highway commutes.

 

So to change the pistons what compression do you guys think I should go with? Because I'm running stock pistons which are 10:6:1 I'm pretty sure I could bump it up at least to 11:5:1 which is a little higher that the jdm type R's 11:1:1. & what do u think about adding a small 50 shot?

 

check your deck height and cc your cylinder head those two variables are often over looked when calculating compression ratios most companies calculated compression ratios are calculated from"virgin" blocks and heads more times than often people have decked and resurfaced them completely changing the actual numbers needed to calculate a accurate ratio. A 50 shot would be great on your build.I always recommend using a wet shot and if your new to nitrous use a wide band and learn how to read your plugs.

 

What times could I expect on the track with the ls tranny I'm currently running ?

 

With compression around 11:1 and 1.8L I would just stick with a off the shelf header. Myers manifolds are great but I don't see the point in spending that much money with the setup you wanna run. A toda rep would be more than enough and will be a significant savings in $$$$

 

I found that was a mistake, though I was at 4.9fd.. Drops me out of powerband way too harsh, and the rpm drop didn't gain much MPG as many had thought. I'm changing mine out to a GS-R 5th gear.

 

?

 

good times!

 

I have b16 1-2 gsr 3-4 and ls 5th mfactory 4.9 fd. cars hauls ***! only tops out around 125-130 but it gets there quick.

 

Do I have to get retuned if I switch to a b16 tranny or no?

 

No. The transmission has nothing to do with how the engine performs, just changes how quickly the engine propels the car

 

.

 

uuh.....

 

Do u have something to add? I really need to know so I can look into getting a tranny before doing anything else

 

You dont need to retune for a transmission

 

I bet that thing's a blast to drive.

 

So I I bent my valances last week after my timing belt stripped on the freeway. Anyways.lol I ordered skunk2 stem seals & Ferrea valve guides, Vibrant timing tensioner, & will be ordering super tech valves as well as a Gates Racing ITR belt, ITR water pump, & cometic head gasket to do some maintenance to my motor.
What I wanted to ask is this. I got an offer to buy my stock c5 block for $950 & I've been thinking of selling it & just buying another block for a cheaper price & building that. If so what should I go with ? Should I keep it or no?

 

*valves sorry

 

agreed %100!!

 

It'd be good to check, Gearing load changes AFR requirements.

A retune might not be needed, but its good to remonitor the tune with the gearing change.