Anyone know where I can get a decent relatively inexpensive pair of lower rear control arms online?

 

Ebay is a start.

 

I looked there and found a few, but I'm kinda weary of ordering any kind of performance products from eBay as they are usually cheap, I'm not trying to find high grade high dollar parts, but I don't want to wonder if my parts are going to hold up either.

 

Function Form LCA is one of the best bangs for your buck. I have them on my build. Do some research on it. The way they are made minimizes premature bushing wear. All though I still recommend installing them the correct way by waiting to torque the bolts down till the car is on the ground and at its final ride height.

 

Thanks, I found some on kspecracing.com for $140, doesn't specify if that's a pair or a piece tho, didn't know about torqueing the bolts with the wheels on the ground either, thanks for that as well

 

Most are sold as a pair. That sounds about right I think I paid a little bit more for mine. No prob I hate seeing people buy and bash on these LCA's and trailing arm bushings faulting premature bushing wear when they in fact did not properly put them on.

 

Just get a set of OEM off CL. No point in running aftermarket unless you need to run a sway bar. The stock unit will outperform and outlast anything on the market until you spend at lease $200 and up.
If you are going for "the look" you are doing it all wrong and you will be replacing them sooner vs later. Aftermarket LCAs (unless you buy a GOOD expensive set like Function 7/ASR or anything of that caliber @ $250 a set) have terrible bushings. OEm arms w/ ES bushing are

 

Did this until I had enough money for my current function 7's. Worked well for me

 

Most people don't understand 'preloading' the suspension.
I'm going to build a set of pre-loading stands so to speak to address this in the spring on my projects

 

These ones by DME are about 170 a pair...

http://www.procivic.com/pages-produc...176/index.html

They are not considered good?

 

They're just bling I've never heard of dme also.

 

OEM. Find them on CL or the marketplace here. They're cheap, build qual is excellent obviously, only thing is they're not flashy. But function trumps form, always.

 

I cannot stress this enough.

Get a pair of OEM ones, find somebody with a sand blaster, blast them clean, paint them yourself or powder coat if you must have something eye catching.

I did it, took me a day, saved me a bunch of money.

 

Don't cheap out on something that affects safety. Function & Form, Blackworks, Megan Racing, Skunk2, its all crap. Function7 or OEM + new bushings, nothing else is worth it imho.

 

I was thinking less about bling and more about rear sway bar capability.

I have a hatchback and so OEM LCA does not have sway bar holes.

I'm also looking into a subframe support for a 24mm sway bar.

But would like quality without being taken to the cleaners.

 

Look for some integra LCA's. They have the sway bar holes you are looking for and are direct replacement for Eg's

 

Good deal, will do.

 

By integra I mean DC chassis 94-01. Non type R. Just wanted to clarify

 

If you must go with aftermarket, save and buy top quality parts, you won't regret it. I've had my set up for maybe a little over a year, well worth it. As the saying goes in the gun world, buy once cry once.

Picture is over a year old but my setup remains the same. Function 7 lca's, ASR rear subframe brace, 24mm rear sway bar, and spherical endlinks.

 

^^^Is that a Koni/GC setup? I'm in the middle of rebuilding my car cause it was stolen and I'm leaning towards the exact same setup. Koni/GC w/ F7 LCAs ASR sub and ASR 24mm. My rates will be 600f/500r. I'll get a front sway bar in the future to go w/ my 3 point solid strut bar.

 

Damn, sorry to hear that. Yes it is a Koni/GC setup, my rates are 450f/350r. Its a great setup, I have about 35k miles on my koni/gc and have 0 issues, handles very well but still comfortable as a DD. I have a 25mm ITR front sway bar with Hardrace bushings and endlinks, I highly recommend it if you go with a 24mm rear sway bar. Front/rear bias is pretty neutral in my car with my setup, leaning slightly towards front bias.

 

Right on. My old car (which was also stolen) was an ex so it had the factory sway bar w/ omnipower streets 10k/8k and the same rear setup and was pretty balanced. I figure I can manipulate that with some driving and dampening adjustment.

 

Thanks for the carification on the Integra.

There is also this package that has more than just the LCA. The LCA's themselves they want 299 for.

http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-U...8402C1605.aspx

Still would need to get an ASR or equivalent subframe brace package. And of course getting some Koni Yellows and coil overs would be the icing on the cake.

Probably start looking at the yards for an old Integra non type R as stated above and just get the brace and bar.

 

I honestly dont understand how someone could put Function&Form in the same category as Blackworks and Megan But hey its an opinion I guess. Its really hard to judge the quality of on brands bushings over another based off of other peoples experiance. This is due to just what Purgatory said so many people do not undertsand the importances of suspension preload. I do know that Function7 is a top dog in the market. But as for ASR's LCA's do some research on them I believe they are in fact made buy the same outsourced company as Blackworks. But I have seen first hand No issues to come from the Function&Forms A close friend of mine has had them for two years now and because of that they are now installed on my rework Build.

 

That IMO is a waste of money. And PWJDM stuff is outrageously overpriced. You don't need a camber kit. Plus those LCAs are still just mediocre. Also you do realize you don't need to run a subframe reinforcement if you run a 22mm swaybar or smaller right? Its just wasted money and one more thing for thieves to eyeball.

If I was on a tight budget and wanted the best setup for the money I would do this:
DC LCAs w/ ES bushing
ITR swaybar and endlinks
GC/Konis ($800) or Progress CSII's ($600) 450/350 spring option
That setup can be had for $1000 or less.

If you want some added cheap insurance throw a lower tie/arm bar in there so stabilize the subframe, they are way cheaper than ASR.

A 22mm swaybar will be more than enough for 100% of the driving you do on a daily basis. If this was a all out auto-x car every single weekend then I would say spend some more and beef it up.