Please help! car jerks and rpms spike! what's going on
Ok so here's the thing. I have a 91 civic sedan. I did a d16y8 swap with a virgin p28 ecu. I've set the timing and ignition timing it's perfect, aside from the y8 vs p28ecu. I have a bran new clutch, distributor, and alternator. Along with many other things. now sometimes when I'm at higher rpms above 3-4k my rpms will jump around and my clutch feels like it's slipping. Now my ecu is running 3 codes. Fuel injectors, IAT, and speedometer (because it doesn't work). Are these on because of the ecu? Also I don't have a cover on my clutch does that matter I know people leave it off. Any advice Is appreciated.
None of the extra stuff you stated matters. What does matter is that the engine is detecting errors AKA faulty sensors (or possibly circuits). The very first thing you should be addressing is why those codes are being thrown.
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Well I did a voltage test and and all injectors are getting 12 volts and they all are showing 11.2-11.3 ohms. So I guess maybe they are clogged. I ran a whole tank of gas and injector cleaner through it already. My speedo is plugged in it just doesn't work it never did I bought the car like that and haven't found a Guage cluster yet. I did order a new speedo cable tho
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Ok so keep in mind I've only had this car running for a couple weeks. Now I just discovered when my gas tank meter shows half it's actually on E... or it feels that way. I put 9 gallons in it and now it has no power loss... I did put a new fuel pump in the car. Any ideas
Previous owner may have installed a Walbro pump.
VERY common problem if the wrong sock is used that the tank has about 1/4 tank and it acts empty.
Run it down to 1/4~1/2 again and see if it acts up. If so, I would be checking the internet for the Walbro write-ups.
VERY common problem if the wrong sock is used that the tank has about 1/4 tank and it acts empty.
Run it down to 1/4~1/2 again and see if it acts up. If so, I would be checking the internet for the Walbro write-ups.
Well I replaced the fuel pump myself with one from a newer civic that's for the y8. Also like I said I put like 9.8 gallons in it when it was a little below half. Maybe the fuel Guage is messed up? Any idea on that.
So any ideas on my fuel injector code? It's code 16. Is there a way I can tell which one is messed up? I tested the volts from the connectors and the ohms from the injectors themselves.
Injector code can honestly be anything in your ignition and fuel delivery systems.
Fix your other codes first before even trying to work on that one.
The injectors do NOT have sensors on them. What's happening is that your O2 is detecting a fault that 'suggests' a fairly large lean or rich condition that might occur with a bad injector.
The faulty IAT you have can definitely cause this problem.
What housing did you use to put the EK pump in?
If you used the stock one from the sedan, then check out the sending unit. Maybe it's bent.
Fix your other codes first before even trying to work on that one.
The injectors do NOT have sensors on them. What's happening is that your O2 is detecting a fault that 'suggests' a fairly large lean or rich condition that might occur with a bad injector.
The faulty IAT you have can definitely cause this problem.
What housing did you use to put the EK pump in?
If you used the stock one from the sedan, then check out the sending unit. Maybe it's bent.
Are all you grounds in place? Most importantly the thermostat ground and your transmission ground. If your thermostat ground is not connected your tach will intermittently jump and the car will buck. Is the car idling properly? It's a common mistake to inadvertantly swap the MAP and IACV plugs and it won't show a code.
Injector code can honestly be anything in your ignition and fuel delivery systems.
Fix your other codes first before even trying to work on that one.
The injectors do NOT have sensors on them. What's happening is that your O2 is detecting a fault that 'suggests' a fairly large lean or rich condition that might occur with a bad injector.
The faulty IAT you have can definitely cause this problem.
What housing did you use to put the EK pump in?
If you used the stock one from the sedan, then check out the sending unit. Maybe it's bent.
Fix your other codes first before even trying to work on that one.
The injectors do NOT have sensors on them. What's happening is that your O2 is detecting a fault that 'suggests' a fairly large lean or rich condition that might occur with a bad injector.
The faulty IAT you have can definitely cause this problem.
What housing did you use to put the EK pump in?
If you used the stock one from the sedan, then check out the sending unit. Maybe it's bent.
Are all you grounds in place? Most importantly the thermostat ground and your transmission ground. If your thermostat ground is not connected your tach will intermittently jump and the car will buck. Is the car idling properly? It's a common mistake to inadvertantly swap the MAP and IACV plugs and it won't show a code.
Yes there is a ground connected to the thermostat housing. One going from the tranny to the body and one from the front on the engine to the front of the car body. spedometer is fixed but it looks like it's moving back and forth slightly. Any idea on that. I've noticed sometimes the car will idle high for no reason. Map is plugged in correctly.
So far it's a no go. I got the iat I installed it on the intake arm. The spedometer works and I'm still running the code 17 for the thing not working. On top of that the code 16 for the injectors is still on. What's another way to test them?
So far it's a no go. I got the iat I installed it on the intake arm. The spedometer works and I'm still running the code 17 for the thing not working. On top of that the code 16 for the injectors is still on. What's another way to test them?
Also why does my car have absolutely no power under 2k rpms? Is this a result of the p28 and y8 engine? I have a friend who can put a y8 base map on it should I do this? Or will it be fine?
You have other issues you need to address. This is not the issue unless the ECU is damaged, but don't go there until you have sorted out all your codes and are certain your grounds are good.
Yes there is a ground connected to the thermostat housing. One going from the tranny to the body and one from the front on the engine to the front of the car body. spedometer is fixed but it looks like it's moving back and forth slightly. Any idea on that. I've noticed sometimes the car will idle high for no reason.
Is the cable snapped into place on the back of the speedo?
Does the cable have the retaining clip in place on the transmission?
Sounds to me like the problems went away when you fixed the speedo the first time.
Now the speedo is showing signs that it's not well again and your engine is bucking again too.
No power at low RPM could be that your mechanical timing is off a tooth or ignition timing set improperly.
Either could cause false codes on the ECU.
For setting ignition timing, be sure to disable the electronic ignition advance (paperclip in the service connector).
The speedometer issue is not normal. Speed should stay constant without any bouncing.
Is the cable snapped into place on the back of the speedo?
Does the cable have the retaining clip in place on the transmission?
Sounds to me like the problems went away when you fixed the speedo the first time.
Now the speedo is showing signs that it's not well again and your engine is bucking again too.
No power at low RPM could be that your mechanical timing is off a tooth or ignition timing set improperly.
Either could cause false codes on the ECU.
For setting ignition timing, be sure to disable the electronic ignition advance (paperclip in the service connector).
Is the cable snapped into place on the back of the speedo?
Does the cable have the retaining clip in place on the transmission?
Sounds to me like the problems went away when you fixed the speedo the first time.
Now the speedo is showing signs that it's not well again and your engine is bucking again too.
No power at low RPM could be that your mechanical timing is off a tooth or ignition timing set improperly.
Either could cause false codes on the ECU.
For setting ignition timing, be sure to disable the electronic ignition advance (paperclip in the service connector).



