Rewiring the CRV Door
So apparently this wasn't just my issue but others as well after searching on the web for what the hell is wrong with my car.
Here's what I experienced:
Dome light not always coming on when doors open
Driver side window not always working
None of the power locks including keyless entry worked
It was easy to figure out that something was wrong with wiring and not fuses when my window would go up and down if I opened the door. This was a monumental find for me as it told me that the connection there was failing. It all came down to the connector between the door and the fender and the wires being stressed. Basically the wires just break off over time. It doesn't seem to be all of them but the wires that are on the inside of the door facing the interior seem to get stressed when you open/close the door.
The solution is to rewire those pins.
What you'll need:
Phillips screwdriver
12mm wrench & or socket wrench
towels
small flathead screwdriver
small metal pick
Soldering iron
heatshrink tubing
20 gauge wire
butt connectors if desired
electrical tape
First things first turn the heater on, it's cold as F*** right now.

In hindsight you probably don't have to do this but a previous mod of running 16 gauge speaker wire into my door required this step of removing the door panel. just need a phillips screwdriver for this

Next was removing the door from the hinges, it's really a b*tch to do this solo the way i did it. you'll need that 12mm wrench/socket for this. There's a total of 5 bolts to take off the door

Here's the plug in question. It's always this end of it and this is what you'll have to work on. It might make sense to free the grommet from the inside of the fender for easier work. You'll need to peel this grommet/rubber back from the connector and remove the electrical tape connecting both sides of it. I used blue the first time running that speaker wire so this time I'll put black on it.
Note: A lot of the stuff I read of people doing this suggested removing the front fender as well. I find that part totally unnecessary.

Here's where I had to google a lot. Seems like there's always a trick to every single connector to get the pins out. This one you need to get the small pick and insert it into a tiny slot on this white part of the connector and pry it out about 1/8 of a inch. That's all it will go DO NOT FORCE IT FURTHER this is the lock that holds the pins in.
(Notice in the picture the disconnected wire, this is my problem and there was about 4 of them)
You'll need some towels to get your hands and tools clean as the protective goop on the connector is like vasolene and gets everywhere.

Once that lock is open you'll need a small screwdriver or a pin removal tool (which i didn't know we had until my friend showed up like a blister and said "did you use the pin removal tool i put in the toolbox")
Push the pins out with the small screwdriver. A bit of force will be required but it's not that bad, they'll give and slide right out.
Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. Once they break you can pull them out of the backside.

Here's the pin.

I should have probably went to radioshack and looked for new pins but I couldn't really drive a door-less CRV up there in the cold. So I just did my best and resoldered over the bad torn off wire with my pigtails

Then it was just connecting the pigtail with either solder and heatshrink or butt connectors.
If you use butt connectors I suggest some made by Anchor marine that are glue filled once you connect wire you hit them with a heatgun and they seal up watertight. I used both methods on this just for the hell of it.
Then when you're satisfied with your wiring tape back up the grommet put it back in the fender wall and put everything back together.
the locking part on the connector wouldn't close 100% and caused issues with reconnecting with the female end inside the door I shaved off the front lip of it with a razor blade and it fit perfectly.
I got the car back together by myself but I'll need a buddy in the next few days to help me actually hang my door correctly.
The good news is EVERYTHING WORKS NOW.
Here's what I experienced:
Dome light not always coming on when doors open
Driver side window not always working
None of the power locks including keyless entry worked
It was easy to figure out that something was wrong with wiring and not fuses when my window would go up and down if I opened the door. This was a monumental find for me as it told me that the connection there was failing. It all came down to the connector between the door and the fender and the wires being stressed. Basically the wires just break off over time. It doesn't seem to be all of them but the wires that are on the inside of the door facing the interior seem to get stressed when you open/close the door.
The solution is to rewire those pins.
What you'll need:
Phillips screwdriver
12mm wrench & or socket wrench
towels
small flathead screwdriver
small metal pick
Soldering iron
heatshrink tubing
20 gauge wire
butt connectors if desired
electrical tape
First things first turn the heater on, it's cold as F*** right now.

In hindsight you probably don't have to do this but a previous mod of running 16 gauge speaker wire into my door required this step of removing the door panel. just need a phillips screwdriver for this

Next was removing the door from the hinges, it's really a b*tch to do this solo the way i did it. you'll need that 12mm wrench/socket for this. There's a total of 5 bolts to take off the door

Here's the plug in question. It's always this end of it and this is what you'll have to work on. It might make sense to free the grommet from the inside of the fender for easier work. You'll need to peel this grommet/rubber back from the connector and remove the electrical tape connecting both sides of it. I used blue the first time running that speaker wire so this time I'll put black on it.
Note: A lot of the stuff I read of people doing this suggested removing the front fender as well. I find that part totally unnecessary.

Here's where I had to google a lot. Seems like there's always a trick to every single connector to get the pins out. This one you need to get the small pick and insert it into a tiny slot on this white part of the connector and pry it out about 1/8 of a inch. That's all it will go DO NOT FORCE IT FURTHER this is the lock that holds the pins in.
(Notice in the picture the disconnected wire, this is my problem and there was about 4 of them)
You'll need some towels to get your hands and tools clean as the protective goop on the connector is like vasolene and gets everywhere.

Once that lock is open you'll need a small screwdriver or a pin removal tool (which i didn't know we had until my friend showed up like a blister and said "did you use the pin removal tool i put in the toolbox")
Push the pins out with the small screwdriver. A bit of force will be required but it's not that bad, they'll give and slide right out.
Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. Once they break you can pull them out of the backside.

Here's the pin.

I should have probably went to radioshack and looked for new pins but I couldn't really drive a door-less CRV up there in the cold. So I just did my best and resoldered over the bad torn off wire with my pigtails

Then it was just connecting the pigtail with either solder and heatshrink or butt connectors.
If you use butt connectors I suggest some made by Anchor marine that are glue filled once you connect wire you hit them with a heatgun and they seal up watertight. I used both methods on this just for the hell of it.
Then when you're satisfied with your wiring tape back up the grommet put it back in the fender wall and put everything back together.
the locking part on the connector wouldn't close 100% and caused issues with reconnecting with the female end inside the door I shaved off the front lip of it with a razor blade and it fit perfectly.
I got the car back together by myself but I'll need a buddy in the next few days to help me actually hang my door correctly.
The good news is EVERYTHING WORKS NOW.
its not a quick process by any means. make sure you have enough time especially if you're going to need the car in the morning.
I put the door on and off three times before I got it right. Had troubles getting the plug back together and had a issue where i did three wires put it all together and then.... nothing worked. took it apart and another wire had broken off.
I'd say definitely try and rig up some way ot prop the door up next and close to the plug to test your work out before you mount the door back up. It's a serious bitch reinstalling the door, it's heavy and hard to line up.
I used a cooler to prop it up.
I put the door on and off three times before I got it right. Had troubles getting the plug back together and had a issue where i did three wires put it all together and then.... nothing worked. took it apart and another wire had broken off.
I'd say definitely try and rig up some way ot prop the door up next and close to the plug to test your work out before you mount the door back up. It's a serious bitch reinstalling the door, it's heavy and hard to line up.
I used a cooler to prop it up.
That would mean pulling the bumper and the headlight though correct? Ill just take the door off tonight, got a big shop and a friend so no worries there and dont need it tomorrow.
I had to do this to mine and my parent's V. I didn't take the door off though, just had my buddy with skinny hands reach in and pull the plug off lol.
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Thanks for the write up. I may tackle this project when the weather warms up (no garage). Discovered today in a wonderful freezing rain storm that my drivers side heated mirror isn't working.
Funny, this is the only vehicle I've owned that has heated mirrors...... You sure do miss it when it's not working!
Funny, this is the only vehicle I've owned that has heated mirrors...... You sure do miss it when it's not working!
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