Hi,

I am a new member. My father has a Honda Odyssey which I believe is based on the Accord which is why I am posting here.

It is a 1996 2.2l automatic 4speed with the F22B engine.

Basically the alternator is not producing any electricity, therefore I thought the alternator was at fault however there is no battery light showing on the dash board therefore I am unsure if it might be a fuse or something else.

Unfortunately the fuse box diagram is in Japanese so it is useless however we have checked all the fuses that we can find with a multimeter and they appear to be alright.

Does anyone know what it might be or if there are any other fuses hiding?

Thanks in advance.

 

In the engine bay fuse box assembly, there should be a fuse that says something like 80amp or 90amp alt. It's a big fuse. Check it for continuity.

 

Hi,

Thanks for the reply. My dad has checked the cable from the alternator to the battery and it was fine. I have told him to remove the fuse (he said it is screwed in) and then check it again.

Having no light on the dash board is what is making me think it is something else.

 

are you getting any battery power?
does the vehicle run when jumped?
you already checked wires/connections.
that other fuse panel should be underdash somewhere.

I don't know where you are but certain parts store will test your alt for you.
if its in question, pull it and have it tested.

 

The engine runs fine but as soon as it is starts the voltage starts to drop very quickly. Also as you rev the engine, the voltage seems to drop more quickly.

The connections at the alternator have been checked, the earth points have been cleaned, the battery terminals have also been cleaned and most of the fuses have been checked.

He has pulled the alternator earlier today so I will ring some places and try to find out if they can check it over.

Any other ideas?

 

if you are checking your voltage on the battery with the car running and voltage drops, get a new alternator.
at the battery with engine running you should get 13.5-14.5v if the alt is good.
if its bad you will not get over battery voltage.

 

Take a digital Multimeter and find your problem. Period. Haha...

 

It could be a coincidence but the light maybe out. You can take the alternator off and bring it to autozone, orileys, or advance auto parts. and let them hook it up to there machine and check it. Check the cells in your battery as well.

 

Okay, describe exactly what it is that you are seeing that you believe is a problem. Describe what voltage and when you're seeing it.

 

No battery warning light comes on when the ignition is on.
The voltage is roughly 12V at the battery with the engine off.

Start the engine an the voltage starts to drop.
The battery warning light is still off inside the car.


I am not sure if there is a signal going to the alternator solenoid to start the alternator.
I am not sure if there is a fuse for the solenoid and could this cause the problem?

 

wuts the voltage at cold start with car running....wen car is warmed up etc etc

 

Continually discharging when running from cold or warm.

Starts at 12V and drops straight away even if the engine is revved.

 

unplug connecter at alt and see what it does

 

Ok I will give that a go. What should I expect to see?

 

the alt will give u full output if its still bad voltage the alt is bad and ur bulb is probably blown...just to be sure test for continuity from the alt big power wire to the positive term on the battery....make sure there is coninuity

 

Just checked it and there is no voltage with the connector removed.

Continuity between the cable and the battery is very good so I assume the alternator needs replacing.

 

pull the alternator, take it Autozone they will test it for free. (i cant vouch for any other parts store, as autozone was the only chain store near my home growing up, and i worked at the one where i live now)

as for the voltage drop when revving the engine, higher rpm means more sparks, which in turn requires more power, (more/faster battery drain.) if the charging system isn't working then its not replacing what is being used and the battery drains faster.

since you said it wont stay running (or the voltage wont stay constant while running) then it is most likely a bad alternator, if the alt was good, it would keep constant voltage once it was running.

HOWEVER: check your grounding points, i have spent hundreds of dollars on charging system components before only to find out that the reason i was having issues was a loose and corroded ground strap.

 

autozone alternator tester sucks on Honda alternators that have duel mode capabilities. It's best to just use a multimeter and test it yourself. It's really best to buy a Denso reman since they are the ones that make Honda alternators.

 

I have managed to find a working used unit for cheap so I have bought that.

I have checked the earth points with a multimeter and its all good.

Fingers crossed when the new (used) alternator arrives it will fix the issue.

I will keep you all updated, thanks for all the help so far.

 

I have replaced the alternator with a used one. The old part number was 101211-9110 and I have fitted a 101211-9130.

It all fits and the connectors are the same except one pin on the old alternator is marked with a C and the new alternator is marked with S.

I'm not sure if this matters but the car battery light is now showingon the dash board and iI also ha r the catalytic converter overheating light on as well.

Any ideas?

 

Just found this.

Does this mean the S and C cannot be interchanged?

TOYOTA – HONDA* Early externally regulated**
L: (D+) Lamp; turns on regulator and controls lamp.
E: (Earth, Grd)
F:* Field. Usually a positive voltage is applied (B circuit).
An exception is the 14552 (A circuit); ground F to test.
N: Stator, an AC voltage tap on stator, used as a field relay.

Internal Fan, Internal regulator,* S-IG-L,* D-IG-L,* C-IG- D-FR-IG-L, C-FR-IG-L, S-FR-IG-L
*
IG: Ignition; turns regulator on.
L: Lamp control.
D: Dummy, not used.
C: Computer. Under certain conditions this terminal is grounded by the computer to reduce torque load on the engine.* The system voltage will drop to about 12.8-13V. This is normal, but because this is sometimes not understood, good alternators have
FR:* Field rate; an output to the computer indicating the Duty cycle (how hard the alternator is working).
S: Senses system voltage. The regulator adjusts voltage to accommodate changing electrical loads, thus maintaining the desired voltage set point at all times.
*

 

that part number really tells me nothing, get a known good alt with the original part number and then you'll know

 

It's important to get the same part numbers for your car. Honda alternators changed somewhere around obd2. You should take it back and try to get one that has the same part number.

If you really want to learn about a honda charging system then read this site.

http://opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/cgi/view...text=auto_pres