Ok Guys this is sort of a semi write and advise and hints ...

First heres the actual install instructions from Skunk 2 Racing:


Scan0002 by rippspeed1, on Flickr


Scan0003 by rippspeed1, on Flickr


Scan0004 by rippspeed1, on Flickr


Scan0005 by rippspeed1, on Flickr


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Scan0007 by rippspeed1, on Flickr

 

heres it is in color:

 

Lets start of by doing a little review on the kit...

Personally the install was a monster !!! never had I seen a cold air intake install requiring the removal of tranny mount bolts and extending a few wiring harness...

The instructions was done very well except it lacked a few more detailed instructions on some of the steps... But overall it worked and can be worked around it ... The parts were complete. Only gripe here is I wish they cut the wires up already instead of having me to cut up the wires to the proper length. Either like I said you can work around it ...

Here the Hints
Removal part of the instructions:
-Remove the front bumper completely


20131212_094649[1] by rippspeed1, on Flickr


20131212_094531[3] by rippspeed1, on Flickr

Once the front bumper is removed:
-Remove the intake system and resonator chamber. This is much easier once you take the front bumper off...
-Then you can gain easy access to the bolts on the battery tray ...


Step #1 of the instructions:
-After securing an jack under the transmission.
-Unbolt the ecu's mounts and move it out of the way to gain access to the transmission bolts. ( this was not stated on the instructions)


20131212_094610[3] by rippspeed1, on Flickr

-Once you mount the Skunk 2 Battery tray ... You need use a rubber mallet to shift the tranny mount to align the bolt holes and the bolt it down ... ( I wish they had the torque specs of the bolts on the instructions but they did not... I just ran a impact gun on it )


20131212_102130[1] by rippspeed1, on Flickr

Step #4 of the instructions:
- Before dropping the battery into the Skunk 2 Battery tray ... Bolt down the negative terminal before placing the battery correctly in the Skunk 2 battery tray and locking it down. Because theres hardly any room for a ratchet wrench or an open and close wrench.

-Before moving on... I would strongly suggest to wrap the positive terminal with electrical tape just incase some wires will touch it while your rewiring ...


20131212_115437[1] by rippspeed1, on Flickr

 

Step # 5 of the instructions:
- You have to use the green and black wire for this one and cut them to 12" lengths. I personally soldered mine connections and heat shrink wrap them and then wrapped the wiring in electrical tape.
The reason for this ... I've personally seen and experience the problems of mickey mouse electrical connector problems in the past.

Step # 6 of the instructions:
- If you look closely on the pics they routed the positive terminal wiring harness under the radiator hose. They did not go into detail on how to do this. I didnt know how either... So I unbolted the harness from a clip by the radiator support. And then another clip under the intake manifold. This gave me enough slack to maneuver the positive terminal to be connected to the postive post on the battery...

Step # 10 of the instructions:
-You need to use the 60" black wiring for this one. And cut them into 5 equal lengths. Once again I stronly suggest soldered here only because this is your maf sensor. I wonder if theres any difference in voltage now ??? Because the oem wiring is 20gauge and the supplied wires are 16 gauge.

Finishing :
I wish they went into more detail on placement of the filter ... I feel like the filter itself is too close the frame ...

and heres final pics of the finished install ...


20131212_142154[1] by rippspeed1, on Flickr


20131212_142159[1] by rippspeed1, on Flickr


20131212_145539_Richtone(HDR)[1] by rippspeed1, on Flickr

 

it was a complete pain to install... i remember me and friend were just like why the hell would they make it so complicated.

One thing I really hate about the kit is you have to relocate the coolant reservoir under the battery... really smart now that I have to take the battery out if I need to add any in!

Great intake but install wasn't well thought of!

 

Did your buddy have a noticeable difference ?

 

There is a very nice difference certainly in the mid range... Although world of advice you need Hondata as your air fuel will be completely off. You will be running lean and that isn't a good thing!

 

Yea I have hondata , picked it all up as package deal from pro civic , got flash pro , skunk 2 down pipe , q300, skunk 2 Cai for about 1700 shipped

 

I do not have tuning experience tho lol

 

Hondata has a premade tune for an AEM CAI with an otherwise stock motor. It's recommended that you still get a custom tune, but you'd probably be OK with this one.

http://hondata.com/flashpro_civicsi_maps.html

 

$1, 700 is about 1/3 of the cost of a Kraftwerks Supercharger kit... I would have kept saving if I was you.

Nice write-up and honesty. Definitely not worth the upgrade at all in my opinion.

 

1700 is not a bad price for flash pro and everything I got ... And all the mods I got still work with the kraftwerks kit by the way :^)

 

Besides I'm thinking rbc next but might do sway bar and suspension befor that

 

It is 1/3 of the cost of Kraftwerks but you need to do it anyways so that you do it now or after comes down to the same...

I would strongly suggest that you don't stay long on one of the pre-tuned flashes as they aren't hybrid maps. Meaning it can effect your fueling system and make your fuel tank get smaller. Also you car will sound like a can of coke every time you undo the fuel cap to fill up...

I strongly suggest to get a tune from Vitviper as you will notice you will enjoy it a lot more and it will be safer!

 

Keep in mind that you might want a different intake, header, and exhaust depending on whether the motor is mostly stock or supercharged.

 

IM will be the one coming with the Kraftwerks as it has the connector that hold the SC in place already.

 

Vladd there is no problems with anything I got , did ur buddy tune or still running a flash ? I'll probly go to randy ( rstech) but might wait for rbc to do that

 

Maybe you have me mixed up with someone else? I don't have any friends that know how to tune.

As for problems with your parts, what I meant was that if you supercharge the car, you'll probably want a bigger header and exhaust than if your car is mostly stock. If you're going to get an RBC, it sounds like supercharging isn't in your future, so keep going with what you've got.

 

If I get the rbc I will be going with the ct-e supercharger as it is rbc compatible, and sorry for the confusion the second part of the convo was for Dave. O yea I looked into the Hondata tune you where talking about its for the k24a2 ... Their is a big difference unfortunately for this motor because of the head and downpipe I don't want to risk running that map they have

 

It's Skunk2...why do any of these issues shock you?

And an aftermarket intake just isn't worth it if it compromises certain functions of the car itself.

 

ya i know lol... but still right haha! Although I have to say the product itself is great and the quality is good.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by this... Hondata has a premade tune for the '08-'11 Si with an AEM CAI and an otherwise stock motor. This is what I linked to. The '08-11 Si didn't come with a k24.

 

No one in this thread has that year civic we have the 9thgen hence the k24z7 sorry for your confusion