Hi folks. I'm new to Hondas, and this is my story...

I picked up a Black 93 Accord EX F22A6 with a broken timing belt. I thought I would replace the head, but then I found a good deal on an F22A1 out of a Prelude and decided it would be easier to swap the engine than the head.

First question: Was I wrong?

I pulled the A6 and swapped the intake, exhaust, cam and harness over to the A1, thinking I could plop this back into the accord and drive off into the sunset. Installed new: plugs, wires, cap & rotor. I hooked everything up and cranked it - it turned but wouldn't start.

I cracked the fuel rail - dry as a bone. No relay click when I turned the key. I checked in the tank: Immaculate, no crud, nothing in the strainer, more than half a tank of gas. I tested the relay: tested good. I checked the harness: Ground on the connector to the relay was open. How could this have happened during an engine swap? All other grounds under the dash seemed to check out fine. I tied in a new ground, got clicks but still no fuel. I pulled the relay and jumped battery to fuel pump - fuel pump kicked on. Checked the rail - fuel spurted out. Left the jumper in to run the fuel pump and cranked the engine - no start. Little bit o' the ether bunny - no start.

Pulled #1 plug and grounded it on the engine, cranked - no spark. So, no fuel (without the jumper) and no spark. FML.

Second question: Where do I even start with this thing? Did I make a huge error in swapping an A1 into an A6 car?

Any ideas or words of encouragement would be greatly appreciated.

 

Check your main ECU ground G101, located in the engine bay on the thermostat housing. Make sure it is clean and tight. That one ground can cause a no fuel, no spark condition.... it is commonly overlooked during engine swaps.

 

Thanks for the hint GhostAccord. Being that the fuel system checked out but didn't pump I was already thinking ECU, so I'm hopeful that you're correct.

Is this the main ground from the battery to engine? That cable was in bad shape and I ended up cutting it back, but maybe it still isn't a good connection.

Or does it come out of the harness somewhere that I could find it?

 

It comes from the ECU and out through the main engine harness.

Should also make sure that the engine to chassis/battery grounds are clean and tight as well though. Without them the ECU ground won't work ether.

 

For the life of me I couldn't find that ground, so I dug into the harness and spliced in some extensions and grounded those. Success!

Now I just have to diagnose the surging.

Thanks!

 

Few things to look at for a surging idle;

• Check for vacuum leaks around the gaskets and look for missing or cracked hoses.
• Check your engine coolant temp sensor. Make sure the contact is clean and tight
• Ensure that your coolant has been properly bled. An air bubble caught up around the ECT sensor can cause a surging idle.
• Check your IACV and FITV for proper operation
• Check your throttle body and idle set screw, they may need adjustment or cleaning.

There is a thread in the FAQ covering the cleaning and maintenance of the throttle body, IACV and FITV.

Best of luck!

 

This thing was surging something crazy b/w 800 and 3000 RPM. I found mgags post on surging idle and started by bleeding out the cooling system which completely fixed the problem. She's smooth as silk now and running down the road. Thanks for your help.