EVERYTHING SHOWN HERE IS COMPLETELY UNSAFE. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPEAT, AS I AM PROBABLY ALREADY DEAD FROM MECHANICAL FAILURES DUE TO MY OWN NEGLIGENCE/INCOMPETENCE.


Before you do this, PB blaster everything on the car daily for about 3 days prior. Doesn't always make it work, but some times it does, and it save alot of time and work.



This process is going to assume that you are replacing your struts and rear lower control arms, and that the bolt attaching the LCA to the subframe was able to be removed.

You will also need to be somewhat skilled with a grinder as some of the spaces you need to cut are tight and next to other items.


This seems like alot of work, but sometimes there is no other choice. I attempted to remove these with a propane torch and a 550 ft lb air impact on a 60 gal 240 volt compressor. They weren't going to move.


Tools:
-Jack and stands (or lift)
-Breaker bar and/or socket wrench
-12,14,19 mm sockets
-Vise grips

-Grinder (atleast 4.5" disc size, bigger is better), several cut off discs
-Good dremmel, cut off wheels, grinding stone

-Gloves
-Face Shield
-Safety Glasses
-Grinding/Welding gloves

I bought a Makita Grinder at the local pawn shop, $30.

M10 fine thread (1.25) is hard to find, especially in a stainless, but since I am cutting the bolts off anyways, I just went to a coarse (1.50) threaded M10.


Here is what I bought:

PURCHASING NEW HARDWARE: ACE Hardware
M10 x 1.50 Hardened Steel Flange Bolt
M10 1.50 Stainless Steel Nylon Insert Lock Nut


SPEND THE MONEY FOR THE HARDENED STEEL. DO NOT USE THE NORMAL ZINC PLATED STEEL. They are not strong enough for this type of application.


Ill come back and edit is necessary, just getting it started.



1.) Remove wheels. Suspend vehicle in the air.


2.) Cut off bushings. Remove Rear LCA

You still get underneath and see this, the LCA bolted to the trailing arm



Remove the bolt (12mm) for this cover.



You need to cut at the 2 spots shown. You want to get close to bushing edge there. There really goal is to cut it so that as you get deeper the lip of the trailing arm falls inbetween the grinder and the disc without hitting the chuck/body so you can cut all the way through.

You also want to leave about 1" of bolt on left (front of the car side)



Be careful as you are cutting not to damage anything. You will most likely have to start cutting, then once you are past half way through, change to a fresh disc to take advantage of the full diameter for cutting.


When you are done you should have this.


You see the bushing still on the bolts. Use the vise grips/socket wrench to remove bushings. The right (rear of car side) will come out, the other side we will deal with in a minute.

Remove the bolt (14mm) from LCA/Subframe connection.
Go into your trunk and take up the side covers. Remove the 2 bolts (14mm) for struts assembly.

Now the entire strut and LCA come out.


4.)Machining Trailing Arm for new hardware


Now hopefully when you cut the bolt/bushing at the LCA/trailing arm connection you left that ~1" I mentioned.

You are going to use your grinding stone and square the bolt off so you can grab it with the vice grips. Like so



IF AT THIS POINT YOU CAN GRAB THAT BOLT END AND SPIN IT OUT GREAT!!!!

I was not able to so I had to go to the other side and use my dremmel with cutoff wheels to cut off the integrated nut from the trailing arm.

You will notice that you have lip on this area made by the trailing arms actual body and the flange of the nut. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THIS FLANGE. Cut as a point just past it on the actual cylindrical part. Then you will have this




Now it this point I was able to spin the remainder of the bolt out.

You will want to grind this entire area flat and smooth.




Last thing to do is to drill out that hole because there are still a couple threads left in there. Do not waller it out too much though, just enough to eat up the threads so you can slide your new bolt through.


I used a 3/8" diameter grade 8 bolt with a stainless steel nylon threaded lock nut.





The bolt was slightly shorter and slightly smaller diameter than the original, but I cleared 2 threads past the nylon in the nut, so I was satisfied.

Not sure if this is advisable, as I do not want extra wiggle in there, but this is the process, you choose the hardware.

Reused the bolts for LCA to Subframe.

Order bolts for LCA to strut. Part # 90173-SR3-003