91' Accord Wagon Rebuild Thread
My thread got deleted so I'm gonna re-make another one.
Accord wagon:
Things done to the engine:
-Overhauled the engine with .50 OS rings and pistons
-A6 camshaft pt6 ecu
-H23 intake with double stack IAB's
-Aluminum aftermarket radiator
Suspension work:
-92-96 Prelude wheels with Nitto tires
-Rebuilt power steering pump
-New ball joints and tie rod ends
-DNA Motoring strut bar
Transmission work:
-5 Speed swap, H23 transmission.
-New axles
-H23 Prelude shifter (its really short and good).
Here it is. Needs paint:

Interior:

Here is the engine bay:

Here are the parts for the F22b DOHC swap I am preparing to do. Took the JDM head to the machine shop to be welded and shaved down. Engine needs a new headgasket so I will be putting the DOHC in the place of the SOHC head.
I found a donor H23 head for the cam caps, and rocker arms.
All I need is valve grinding compound and a valve grinder thingy (whatever you call it).
Pictured here is the following:
F22b DOHC cylinder head:
1988 Dodge Caravan timing belt (126 teeth)
P39 ECU
H23 timing gear


Need to replace a rear wheel bearing and also the head gasket. And also I will be changing the exhaust. Will add pics of that later.
Accord wagon:
Things done to the engine:
-Overhauled the engine with .50 OS rings and pistons
-A6 camshaft pt6 ecu
-H23 intake with double stack IAB's
-Aluminum aftermarket radiator
Suspension work:
-92-96 Prelude wheels with Nitto tires
-Rebuilt power steering pump
-New ball joints and tie rod ends
-DNA Motoring strut bar
Transmission work:
-5 Speed swap, H23 transmission.
-New axles
-H23 Prelude shifter (its really short and good).
Here it is. Needs paint:

Interior:

Here is the engine bay:

Here are the parts for the F22b DOHC swap I am preparing to do. Took the JDM head to the machine shop to be welded and shaved down. Engine needs a new headgasket so I will be putting the DOHC in the place of the SOHC head.
I found a donor H23 head for the cam caps, and rocker arms.
All I need is valve grinding compound and a valve grinder thingy (whatever you call it).
Pictured here is the following:
F22b DOHC cylinder head:
1988 Dodge Caravan timing belt (126 teeth)
P39 ECU
H23 timing gear


Need to replace a rear wheel bearing and also the head gasket. And also I will be changing the exhaust. Will add pics of that later.
I do have a quick question. Since I overbored my cylinders half a mm over do I also need to expand the cylinder bores of the head or is that no necessary?
This is what I mean. This is comparing a 85mm head to an 86 mm bore:

Would I want to ask my machinist to bevel or chamfer the circumference before I have it installed? I did not do this with the sohc head.
This is what I mean. This is comparing a 85mm head to an 86 mm bore:

Would I want to ask my machinist to bevel or chamfer the circumference before I have it installed? I did not do this with the sohc head.
Last edited by Mishako129; Dec 4, 2013 at 07:33 PM.
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Mishako129 I am not even sure where to begin. The edge of the chamber is not going to be an issue.
It will not become a pre-ignition trouble spot.
What is left of the Cilia in my lungs and nasal passages is thanking you for the ingestion of unexpected hot tea. *coughing*
It will not become a pre-ignition trouble spot.
What is left of the Cilia in my lungs and nasal passages is thanking you for the ingestion of unexpected hot tea. *coughing*
Mishako129 I am not even sure where to begin. The edge of the chamber is not going to be an issue.
It will not become a pre-ignition trouble spot.
What is left of the Cilia in my lungs and nasal passages is thanking you for the ingestion of unexpected hot tea. *coughing*
It will not become a pre-ignition trouble spot.
What is left of the Cilia in my lungs and nasal passages is thanking you for the ingestion of unexpected hot tea. *coughing*
Ya know what, I think the very best place to ask about this would be my machinist, he will know for sure if this is a big deal or not. Unless you are absolutely sure that its no big deal, I just don't know if I can trust your word i'm getting mixed advice here.
1mm over might be something I would start to look into. However, considering you are talking about an over bore of 0.5mm, which equates to a landing of 0.25mm/0.001" around the circumference of the bore. I wouldn't be too worried about it.
And you really want to trust the word of a machinist that told you not to bother welding that gash you had in your head gasket sealing area?
Should start to take some of your own advice! 
P.S who's bag did you have to lick to get reinstated? I see that your build didn't get much attention over on HAF..... Those guys over there know their stuff!
And you really want to trust the word of a machinist that told you not to bother welding that gash you had in your head gasket sealing area?

P.S who's bag did you have to lick to get reinstated? I see that your build didn't get much attention over on HAF..... Those guys over there know their stuff!
My oem exhaust was tiny, but I did like that it was quiet, this seems too loud when I open the throttle up. Its not that loud tho... Then again it is. I thought the glasspack/muffler would make it more quiet than it is, maybe it needs to be broken in idk.
I have a question/observation. My exhaust rattles like crazy now that I have the new system in. It happens when I take off. What could be causing this? One thing I know is the hangers (which are molded rubber) maybe a bit too short and causing the exhaust pipes to be too snug to the heat shields and causing a rattle. The exhaust is supposed to move with the engine freely. Its not moving enough though... Do you think I just need longer hangers or what? I think so.
By the way the new rear wheel bearing fixed the issue I was having, no more annoying roaring noise as I go up hills and make left turns.
I have a question/observation. My exhaust rattles like crazy now that I have the new system in. It happens when I take off. What could be causing this? One thing I know is the hangers (which are molded rubber) maybe a bit too short and causing the exhaust pipes to be too snug to the heat shields and causing a rattle. The exhaust is supposed to move with the engine freely. Its not moving enough though... Do you think I just need longer hangers or what? I think so.
By the way the new rear wheel bearing fixed the issue I was having, no more annoying roaring noise as I go up hills and make left turns.
sure ya do! lol. I think its funny how much this thread alone consists of so much ridicule..
Quote:
Originally Posted by ej7attack View Post
mishako are you doing this work to this engine?
What work are you talking about? .
im talking about the head install that your trying to do with a dodge timing belt.
I don't get why people do these head swaps, to spin higher rpm?
just get an h. or f20 if that's what your trying to do.
better yet, turbo it as is, with the f head. just my opinion. just like an *******. everyone has one and they all stink!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ej7attack View Post
mishako are you doing this work to this engine?
What work are you talking about? .
im talking about the head install that your trying to do with a dodge timing belt.
I don't get why people do these head swaps, to spin higher rpm?
just get an h. or f20 if that's what your trying to do.
better yet, turbo it as is, with the f head. just my opinion. just like an *******. everyone has one and they all stink!
Not to be a badger, but did you honestly notice any difference dropping in the A6 cam? I have one sitting on my shelf I've been thinking about dropping in when I do a t-belt change on my F22B2. I have to replace the spark plug tube seals anyway, too. I can get a PT6 or whatever from the junkyard for next to nothing so getting that little 'extra' would be nearly nothing. F23 intake manifold going to go on at the same time. Altogether it may be a 5-10hp difference, but I'd have about $60 into the entire combo. Built engine going in next year.
On your exhaust issue, you probably need a flex joint in there if you don't have it, and need to check all your hangers and hardware. I'd ditch that muffler and go with an OEM piece from, say, an 05-06 RSX Type-S, like I did. It's not a big restriction on those cars from the factory(without a tune, big gains aren't to be had with those cars from the cat-back), and it sounds really nice on my car and is dead silent unless I'm into it.
On your exhaust issue, you probably need a flex joint in there if you don't have it, and need to check all your hangers and hardware. I'd ditch that muffler and go with an OEM piece from, say, an 05-06 RSX Type-S, like I did. It's not a big restriction on those cars from the factory(without a tune, big gains aren't to be had with those cars from the cat-back), and it sounds really nice on my car and is dead silent unless I'm into it.
Not to be a badger, but did you honestly notice any difference dropping in the A6 cam? I have one sitting on my shelf I've been thinking about dropping in when I do a t-belt change on my F22B2. I have to replace the spark plug tube seals anyway, too. I can get a PT6 or whatever from the junkyard for next to nothing so getting that little 'extra' would be nearly nothing. F23 intake manifold going to go on at the same time. Altogether it may be a 5-10hp difference, but I'd have about $60 into the entire combo. Built engine going in next year.
I would suggest sending the A6 cam in for a regrind, installing the F23 intake and throttle body, install everything, get a chipped ECU and a tune. Just remember, it's all in the tune!
sure ya do! lol. I think its funny how much this thread alone consists of so much ridicule..
Quote:
Originally Posted by ej7attack View Post
mishako are you doing this work to this engine?
What work are you talking about? .
im talking about the head install that your trying to do with a dodge timing belt.
I don't get why people do these head swaps, to spin higher rpm?
just get an h. or f20 if that's what your trying to do.
better yet, turbo it as is, with the f head. just my opinion. just like an *******. everyone has one and they all stink!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ej7attack View Post
mishako are you doing this work to this engine?
What work are you talking about? .
im talking about the head install that your trying to do with a dodge timing belt.
I don't get why people do these head swaps, to spin higher rpm?
just get an h. or f20 if that's what your trying to do.
better yet, turbo it as is, with the f head. just my opinion. just like an *******. everyone has one and they all stink!
It doesn't spin the RPM higher the main reason I'm doing it is because I blew a head gasket and heard that this swap will net a few extra ponies. Can't spin higher rpms the bore and stroke of the f22b dohc is the exact same, its basically a mini H23 with the same block as the F22a. Another reason why I want to do this, the F22 head gasket fits perfectly. With the P39 ecu (the stock JDM ecu for the F series dohc) it will be interesting to see what gains will be had. The F series dohc has a bit higher compression tho, 9:3:1 instead of 8:8:1. Maybe the head mill will make it higher. What would be a safe mill to bump it up, 0.10" or 0.20"? The head I have has never been milled before.
But I think I'm gonna go with Ghosts advice and not worry about chamfering the head, if indeed its no big deal.
The exhaust I put on there sounds really nice but with a test pipe on it its just too loud. I am going to install the magnaflow direct fit cat converter I had on it previously. That will definitely quiet it down. Even with my stock exhaust when I had the test pipe on it it was louder. Much louder than with a regular cat. And who cares if I lose 1 mpg and lose a little bit of power, it should be negligible. Plus the MGF cat I got is high flowing already.




