Removing axel nut with knuckle removed ?.
Cliffs: sawed drive shaft in half....can't get the axel nut off, thinking about removing it(the knuckle) and brining it to a garage. But if it's near impossible to do with out the car's brakes holding it i'll shell out on a 3/4dr socket cause my 1/2 bars keep braking.
suggestions welcome ! this is a pita.
suggestions welcome ! this is a pita.
When my lower ball joint separated. It pulled the axle shaft out. Removed the whole knuckle (with half the axle still attached) and took it to the garage, didnt cost much to have them remove it. And saved a lot of time and swearing
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CV boots were torn on both sides lol and I was going to replace it anyway.
the car has no problem holding the wheel in place I just don't want to pay 35$ and wait 2 weeks for a stupid socket lol.
I did start cutting the bolt with an angle grinder I just don't want to damage in knuckle, so I may just continue yes it's un spiked also.
the car has no problem holding the wheel in place I just don't want to pay 35$ and wait 2 weeks for a stupid socket lol.
I did start cutting the bolt with an angle grinder I just don't want to damage in knuckle, so I may just continue yes it's un spiked also.
The easiest way to remove any such large nut is with an impact wrench. I have an electric DeWalt DW-293, which is probably the best tool I've ever bought.
How long is the cheater bar you're using?
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From: Pensacola, FL and every Court House in Louisiana
I thought I understood from your first post that you already had a socket, but your 1/2" drives kept breaking.
What "bolt"? Or did you mean the axle nut?
The easiest way to remove any such large nut is with an impact wrench. I have an electric DeWalt DW-293, which is probably the best tool I've ever bought.
How long is the cheater bar you're using?
What "bolt"? Or did you mean the axle nut?
The easiest way to remove any such large nut is with an impact wrench. I have an electric DeWalt DW-293, which is probably the best tool I've ever bought.
How long is the cheater bar you're using?
@Therealtegger: yes I have an impact 1/2dr 32mm socket, what I need to order is a 3/4dr socket for my 3ft 3/4dr braker bar. I have a 1/2 dr IR impact gun but it's not doing the trick, and I don't have money to get a new 3/4dr impact(500$). yah it's the nut just was thinking of a bolt I needed for something else lol.
that impact gun I have is rated at 780ft lbs of reverse tq the 3/4dr one has 1200ft lbs of torque !!
that impact gun I have is rated at 780ft lbs of reverse tq the 3/4dr one has 1200ft lbs of torque !!
You mean your 780 ft/lb impact isn't taking the nut off? Are you sure you've got enough air behind that IR wrench? Maybe your compressor isn't man enough for the job (something the electric has NO problem with!).
The DeWalt is only capable of about 350# of torque, and it takes axle nuts off in a few seconds.
The DeWalt is only capable of about 350# of torque, and it takes axle nuts off in a few seconds.
The DeWalt's only drawback is its size. Being about a foot long, it's useless inside an engine bay, so engine mount bolts are usually a no-go for it.
And it' s only a 1/2" drive...
it's a 7hp gas powered compressor with a 50 gallon tank it can power it no prob just the nut is super tight. will probably get the stupid socket the bar is rated to 850ft lbs even tho I can't apply that if I wanted lol. may even look into a 1'' drive !!
I suspect either the wheel is moving a little while you buzz it (even a tiny bit of movement can dissipate the force of the gun), or there's somehow insufficient airflow getting to your rattle gun.
Make sure the wheel is totally dead-still with zero movement and try buzzing it again.
You're CERTAIN the stake has been COMPLETELY removed? If even a little bit of the stake is still impinging on the shaft, it can prevent nut removal (which is exactly what it's supposed to do). Check very carefully.
By the way, do not put the weight of the car on the wheel once the driveshaft is out of the hub. Doing that can damage the wheel bearing, and Honda warns against it.
is this on your car you did a conversion on?? why so tight!? i only had this problem with a teg that spent years in a paddock, rusted axle nuts =( i just cut my losses. time = money. this a doner car or your's?
I would use a cutting disc and cut out the axle to fit an open ended wrench take a propane torch heat the end with the nut till it get orange and use the impact to zip off the nut. Or just stick it in a vise heat it up and remove with gun. The propane torch should heat it up enough tho
Torch the nut and impact it. I had to do this and I heated it for a good 2 minutes and impacted it for a good straight 3 minutes. Used PB blaster to let it soak few hours prior
ordered the 32mm 3/4'' dr socket...lets hope the mail isn't too slow. I've hit it with the gun when the car was on(more clamp with the brake booster on) and someone slamming the brakes the gun does work. I have no clue when it was last out it's an OEM one so I assume it's original with the car which is a 1994 lol. going to get some PB blaster today and hit it a few times maybe give the 1/2 impact a go again. no it's not a parts car I crashed it then stripped it for a ground up rebuild
doesn't see the winter months. thx for the input guys will give some of them a go when I get my socket, may also try around a few shops here I'll have the money for a 3/4'' impact at some point.
doesn't see the winter months. thx for the input guys will give some of them a go when I get my socket, may also try around a few shops here I'll have the money for a 3/4'' impact at some point.
that chunk of 2x4 i use to hold down the clutch pedal also comes in handy to slam the brakes or just drop a good sized screwdriver into the top of the brake rotor up against the dust shield so it aint goin nowhere. then i sit my asscrack on the breaker bar and give it the ole teeter totter motion.



