140 hp 130 tq.

 

car is now tuned properly, before was running on a stock LS ecu with a Ecu Chipped on Crome with a random base map. But now with the Dyno tune my car feels "ALIVE" AND kicking love all the torque and power isnt much but the tq makes up for it

 

Which B20? Supporting mods?

 

i/h/e only bolt ons. 2000 motor...stock exhaust
2.25 piping.... no cat

 

You have a huge hole at 3500, that shouldn't happen unless it wasn't tuned rich enough. The reason you don't have any high end power is because the stock IM is garbage. But otherwise it looks decent.

 

thank you for the constructive criticism, I have no idea why there is a gap between the 3500, my first dyno we did it like 8 times, tell we got the most power it could handle....the intake manifold i assume your talking about right? yeah this tune was more to get it dailed in ....it wasnt running right for a bit now it feels better, but what do you think i should go back and get it re-done?

 

i just dropped in the same motor/setup as you with i/h/e and 2.25 exhaust. when street tuning i noticed a big decrease in fuel consumption between 3000 and 4000 so it probably has a big dip just like your dyno. its probably the result of the cam/intake manifold combo.

what intake manifold are you using? the low rise jdm one with that box looking thing on it?
as a 2000 im gonna assume like an *** thats a high compression motor with the same intake cam as the p75.

i know from my last b20 setup that swapping over the small cam to a p75 integra intake cam keeps the motor from falling on its face at 5500-6000 rpm. overall good stuff man, definitely solid numbers to drive around with in and out of traffic, plus you dont have to wind it out to 8000 rpm to get it

 

thank you i agree car is really fun to drive. I was told by the tuner it feel between 3500/4000 because thats when he gets on the throttle...., as for the manifold im using a STOCK ls manifold, fully stock motor, only upgrades are i/h/e with the upgraded piping... still stock exhaust tip....Im debating stay non vtec, and just getting cams with bigger throttle bottle,aem fuel rail, skunk 2 manifold etc im shooting for 200/215

 

Here she is on the Rollers

We did about 6-9 Pulls I forgot. He took his time, and it went well. I had only stock parts So i didnt expect high numbers<-- i was mostly trying to get it Dailed in, No rich No lean, Get it proper and it is:-D

 

That dip will be there as long as you stick with the p75 intake manifold. If you look at the B20Z manifold, it is pretty much exactly the same as the P75 save for the resonator box on top. Supposedly this box was used to counteract that dip, but I've never seen anyone do a back-to-back test with it vs the P75. Then again, I don't think I've ever seen anyone test the B20Z manifold at all.

 

yeah i figured it was either the cam profile or manifold. im also using the p75.

so the question now is what manifold would eliminate that dip but not all but ruin the midrange considering the cams are still stock.

here is one of my dyno scans from an old b20 i had with bc stage 2 cams and blox intake manifold. you can see it still has a bit of the dip early on



op- if you are looking for 200whp you are pretty much going to go vtec. a good i/h/e along with a pro1 or similar cam usually gets the job done at 84mm. you may have to raise the compression a bit though, at least closer to 11:1

 

Nice graph! I bet it's fun on the street!

200whp takes the following:
Vtec head
P30 IM
68mm TB
GOOD header (smsp, toda, rmf - replicas)
84mm ITR reps (mid 11 comp ratio)
CTR/ITR cams (or any stage 1 cams)
ARP rod bolts

Thats the basic list. You can change a few things, but its a good base to start with. The main thing is the vtec head and ITR style pistons. Even stock gsr cams could get you to 200whp with the right IM and header combo and a good tune.

 

Yessir its extremely fun to drive, the car has a Gsr transmission ..So it picks up speed pretty quick!.

i wont be buying nothing to increase my hp anytime soon my transmission and suspension needs work...after then i will invest in building my motor...im looking for solid numbers ,

 

Don't get hung up on the numbers. It really doesn't matter that much as long as it's running properly. What are you running for an ecu/management?

I've got a very similar setup in my daily sedan, rebuilt it with RS Machine ITR clones. The thing is a blast to drive without hardly ever taking it to redline. Point and squirt.

This thread should probably be moved to the all-motor section, I'd love to continue the conversation but it's a bit off-topic for this forum.

 

My ecu is Chipped on Crome,
I also never get to the redline unless i happen to race and wait to long to shift. Also I appreciate my build all my money time goes in to it....im a perfectionist if i have a check engine light pop on off to the shop i go...

My Motor is pretty darn healthy right now im assuming im at 87XXX, its a japanese Crv motor....

 

If you're relying on your stock tach in the higher ranges, it's wrong.

 

im sorry what?


i bought this motor my self...i know how much it has roughly...

 

I was just saying that the stock tach is typically off by several hundred rpm above 6k or so. You mentioned never getting to redline, I was just pointing out that you might me revving much higher than you are aware of.

 

im pretty sure that i would of been told so when i was getting my dyno done , the guy had his laptop hooked up and everything dialed in properly ...I have my redline to where its it makes it most power and thats it we didnt push it beyond ...

but i understand what your saying...

reason i dont hit redline is fear of exploding my motor...so i keep it under 6 , and hardly get over 5 unless i am jumping on the freeway

 

so speaking of redline /rev limiter, how high would you guys bring a motor like this rpm wise?

im pretty sure the rods use the same studs as the b18a/b as well as same valvetrain and ive seen ls motors 7200-7400 with reliability. wouldnt it be the same ballpark for the b20?


op - is this with a p75 head and high compression (with knock sensor)?

 

The show is over by 6500-6800 on mine. No reason to rev past that on stock cams/intake mani anyway.

Curious, what kind of gas mileage do you guys get out of yours?

 

6-9 pulls for a tune is too low. It takes at least 4 pulls just to heat soak the manifold and nail your rich target AFRs, then 2 or 3 pulls to compare leaner AFRs which may offer more power. Another 5 to 10 pulls to dial in WOT ignition advance, then refine AFRs, dial in cruising and part throttle AFRs and ignition... a quality tune takes trial and error, that doesn't happen in 15 minutes.

B20 breathes heavy after 3500, the IM chokes out a little, lowering VE. This requires more fuel to make a clean burn, and usually calls for more ignition advance since it burns slower in turbulence.
A 9-pull tuner advances your whole ignition column and stops when he makes peak numbers, but I guarantee you still have more potential in those tables. Especially if he was using a B20 basemap.

 

get a grounding kit, normally solves that problem. also improves spark at higher RPM. Make sure to put one of those ground wires on the thermostat.

 

This is exactly what I found I had to do to the maps while messing with mine. Added a few degrees and brought the afr down into the 14s away from 15:1.

Adam as for mpg im getting 26 to around 28ish but I have stock low compression and a s4c trans with gsr 5th so im always cruising at 3000 or more rpm

 

sir my dyno lasted for about an hour if not more, it was like 5-6 WOT power pulls and like 5-6 Partial throttle pulls for MPG.

My tuner is hands down A real good tuner in the scene out here in the I.E
As you can see he squeezed out almost the stock HP of the motor with a LS manifold ..Stock Exhaust tip...etc

Im going back once i get Cams,IM,Fuel Rail etc