Hey guys, so I'm 19 and I live in Hawaii and for most of my life I've been into lifted Toyotas, but recently they've come out with such a stupid safety check law which makes all our trucks illegal. So I've decide to pick me up a Honda.

Now that that's all out of the way, I got a 89 EF sedan with no rust and immaculate interior. I picked it up from a friend for a steal because he was having a kid. I recently purchased a jdm b16 from HMO and had my friend help me drop it in to use as dd. but I'm not satisfied there, I've been reading through the threads and have become inspired to do a full motor build. I really don't know anything about Hondas, so I would appreciate all the advice I can get, especially on parts. My goal is to make a solid dd that can push 220-240 whp as a all motor build, but can also be put on the track and hit a 12 and be put in a show and turn some heads, I'm also wondering about itbs cause those are un heard of down here. I have some money to spend and want to do a good quality build the right way the first time. Thanks guys.

 

First, start with support parts, 3 bar map sensor, msd ignition with an external coil and ignition box, high flow oil pump, chipped and tuneable ecu, about 450cc injectors, throttle body, intake, high flow fuel rail And adjustable fuel pressure regulator and an upgraded fuel pump. Then I would start on bottom end work. I would keep the bore stock considering you aren't looking for mad HP and I would get a good block guard, either flat top or dome pistons, and forged rods. Then Cam, Cam gear, valve springs, titanium retainers and some nice valves. All of that done right and tuned right will make closer to 290hp at the crank. And with the right tranny you can hit low 12s in the quarter mile with good tires, suspension and driving ability. All with minimal machine shop runs.

Slinky, Slinky, GO Slinky! GO!

 

240whp? DDable? B16? All motor? These things won't add up sir

 

Wow thanks man, I appreciate the help. Once I figure out how to post pics, I'll start keeping you guys updated on the build

 

I'm not to sure, but I work at ford and we have a few techs that are enthusiast and they told me 240hp is a great number to shoot for. I'm real new to the seen and don't know much, I'd appreciate if u could elaborate. Thanks for the input man

 

I have a friend with a 92 da integra with a b16a1 swap. He has what I listed above plus mad machine work pushing nearly 500hp @ 5600rpms on the dyno. I don't remember the exact number but that thing is insane. That said, he has about 12gs into his motor.

And my stock d16z6 with nothing but a 50trim dsm turbo and a great tune is making 260 ish HP to the crank.

A b16 with the same build as mine will rape my top speed and hp/ torque in higher rpms

Slinky, Slinky, GO Slinky! GO!

 

Look into B16 all motor builds and you'll see why. GSR/ITR or a B18/B20 bottom end and go from there. H2B swap is another option for you that'll satisfy your goals

 

No problem, man, and if you need any further, more parts specific help, let me know.

Slinky, Slinky, GO Slinky! GO!

 

I got a good amount saved up to spend, and yeah I'm dying to get started on the build, I just want to make sure I do all my research and figure out the best setup and parts. Thanks for the help

 

Yeah if u could point me in the direction of some good brands/ parts that'd be great

 

Yeah I was thinking of putting a itr bottom end, but I wanted to get others opinions first on what I should do for the build. And what's a h2b swap.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid-engine-swaps-18/h2b-f2b-faq-1998426/

 

Wow that looks like the way to go. I was also wondering would i be able to do a kswap in my EF?

 

I thought about doing that build in my ef, but when custom headers start at$500 I decided against it. There's a reason people prefer the b16 over the h2b. It's more economic to drop a b16 in. You can pull everything you need from a crx si or Del slow and just build And tune the motor.

I personally chose the cheap easy route on my ef sedan, stock d15b2... pull the motor and ecu, grab a jumper harness, a new ecu and drop a z6 into place. Then build then turbo.

Slinky, Slinky, GO Slinky! GO!

 

Since you already have a b16 in there, find yourself a B20 bottom (B20z or b (z would be best since its got a tad bit more compression) and slap your b16 head on that bottom end. Did you purchase a motor/tranny package from hmotors? If so, I assume you already have a b16 tranny mated to your b16. If so, that is good because that short geared b16 tranny is def what you want for an all motor setup. Of course that stock b20vtec wont be at 220-240whp but I guarantee you, you will be more than happy. Later down the road add a good header, intake manifold, headwork and tuning and you could be knocking close to that 200whp level.

 

^ This. B20vtec is the way to go. You can get 200whp very easily, and it will still be a very drivable setup. A 240+whp B16 would be a time bomb, and it would more than likely need C16 race gas all the time.

 

You can't get rid of a b20 out here, they are time bombs.

Slinky, Slinky, GO Slinky! GO!

 

No. Everything you are talking about is referring to forced induction engines. This is a naturally aspirated discussion. The B20 is not a time bomb. There are people making LOTS of power with stock block B20s. It's all in the tune.

 

I've seen 3 people blow all motor b20s in the past 6 months. 1 of them was on his third block. Using the same tuner I go to. And he's damned good. Also bare in mind that I am in elevation.

Slinky, Slinky, GO Slinky! GO!

 

So you think that it was the engines fault everytime? There were no incorrectly installed parts, or failed aftermarket parts? Was the engine revved above stock redline with stock rodbolts?

There are too many people successfully using B20s to say that they are time bombs. There are too many other factors to say that.

 

it wasn't built right, three times now.
no motor is a time bomb, unless in correctly built/cared for.
op, if you have the money do a k20, you'll love it. you'd prolly spend the same amount building a b/h series for the same price a k20a swap would cost.

 

A k20 swap in an ef would be intense. But b20's cylinder walls are really thin (well for high compression and high rpms). I suppose you can get a block guard to help reduce cylinder stress. But due to repeated bad experiences I don't trust them. The extra bore isn't worth it to me.

Slinky, Slinky, GO Slinky! GO!

 

People have made over 500hp on stock sleeves. It's all in the tune.

 

I would like to see how the 3 people you know blew up those b20's in less than 6 months. Either they were bubble gummed together or they beat the **** out of it 24/7. A good friend of mine has a b20/v in his eg hatch. Bone stock b20z bottom, GSR head with an AEBS manifold and type r cams. Super strong motor for a stock block and its been running perfect and strong for over 4 years. Shoot, I have a stock b20b in my EF hatch and its been in there for over 2 years and it runs just as strong now as it did when I put it in there.

 

I'm pretty sure you said those were both stock... they are strong motors stock, but the bottom end requires sleeves at the minimum for anything over 11.5 to 1 compression running up (or beyond) to 8500 rpms.

Slinky, Slinky, GO Slinky! GO!