So I bought a running 91 civic hatch dx dpfi setup and swapped my h22a into it.

odb 1 h22a ran the day i pulled the engine.
p28 chipped ecu with knock, o2, and egr deleted in tune.
odb0 to odb1 harness I built myself. used a chart off of here and it corrosponds with the charts I look up.
using the resistor pack from the accord it came out of.
using the map sensor in the hatch
ran my own injector wires to the ecu
ran my own cyk? wires to the ecu

when I key on the ecu :
cel light lights for 3 seconds then goes out as it should
main realy clicks
fuel pump runs

but the car dosent start

for test I wired the resistor pack to batt directly. and voltaged tested fine at all injectors

so I went checking simple things. spark was good. pressure seemed fine to the fuel rail. its got air. thermostate groung.

checked the injector wires for cont and correct firing order.
checked my cyk? wires I had to run from the dizzy to the ecu. i ussed sheilded wire. but grounded it to the ecu case. and just read ecu case is floating gnd?

all seems to check ok. injectors arnt fireing tho.

so now im to a point of scoping the dizzy output wires at the ecu to see whats going on.

anyone have any info or suggestions to help me?

 

have you tried another ecu? also double check your dist wiring.

and by doesn't start do you mean it cranks but doesn't turn over?

 

I tried my p13 ecu that i ran before i went to a chipped ecu setup and it didnt fire as well.

You are correct that car cranks but does not fire.

I will note that when I was checking spark. The wire didnt spark as frequintly as I would have expected but I did get a snap per rotation. Maybe indicator that wires are crossed?

 

my experience with injectors are on b and series injectors in crxs. id check the main relay distributor and grounds. the fact that youre getting power at the injectors is weird though, cause when ive had the issue there would be no power to the injectors.

 

Main relay kicks and fuel pump runs. on my dx harness on the drivers side there were 2 wires of the correct color solderd together prior to me messing with the car and I connected my resitor box to that. upone first test the resitor box did not have voltage. that was when I wired the resistor box to the batt ensuring it got the voltage it needed. car still didnt run...

 

to my understanding the ecu gets its gnds from the thermostate gnd at the motor which was checked and prepped before connecting.

its prolly a dizzy connection issues to the ecu...