So I just picked up my first EM1 Si.
The car is in a little rough condition, but the motor is strong and the body is very clean, so where better to start.
I'll be attempting to fix everything the previous owners neglected, and making this car one hell of a clean and presentable fun daily driver! I'll be keeping up on my progress. It'll take me a bit as money comes in and out, but we'll get there. Anyones help along the way is more than appreciated!! Thanks!
Btw, I'm from SouthEast Wisconsin if anyone is in the area! Let me know!!

About the car!
JDM B16a motor swap
Original trans (i beleive)
Factory interior (needs some work)

Heres a "to do" list of everything the car needs... and its a little long...

Passenger side seat belt clip
Gauge cluster wiring
Shift linkage/roll pin/gator pin
Radio Mount
Suspension look-over / replacement
Trunk interior/spare and tools
Rear seat replacement
E-brake hook up
Wheels!!!
Window regulator
Dash control (mirrors, fog, cruise)
A/C re-hook up
Carbon fiber repair/replacement
Quarter panel dent repair
Front seats (red?) – Interior carpeting @ same time
Interior replacement/refinement

Wish me luck!! haha. And heres a couple quick pics, Ill be adding more later!

 

Looks pretty good, but are you sure it's an EM1 and not a clone? Look at the VIN, it'll either have "EM1" in it, or "EJ6" or "EJ8". I mainly ask because those aren't OEM fogs, that isn't an OEM lip, and those aren't OEM SI wheels.

 

Oh yeah, I'm very aware of the OEM equipment, and unfortunately the previous owners werent. I'll be keeping some sort of fogs, i like the lip, and the steelies will stay until the snow leaves in the spring*. Otherwise, I just checked and sure enough, EM1 is there.
You scared me for a second! haha.

 

Nice bro, can't wait to see what you have plan for it, at least u got a s2k tach already haha

 

Good luck with that crumpled spot behind the driver side door.

Also; I'd personally sell the S2k tach and source an EM1 tach with near to original miles, thats just my 2c though.

 

That dent isn't very bad. Maybe just pull it a little, fill, sand out and paint. That area is fun but his isn't as bad as mine was, we had a massive dent from the window to the rocker we had to straighten out. Didn't come out too bad we're about ready to paint.

My kid wants to get the S2k cluster but I ain't springing for it. If the OP likes it I'd say stay with it. If not get an original EM they are very easy to find. You can adjust the odom to match your mileage.... if that is the original mileage.

 

yeah to be honest, I'm not the biggest fan of the s2k cluster. I think I'll be swapping it for something with white faced gauges (comes from the old days of being a Ford SVT fan, where that meant a lot, hah)
otherwise the car needs a lot of work, I'm hoping to do one thing per week maybe, the more expensive/less urgent things will have to wait.
Thanks for the interest guys!
btw, I'm still new to working on my own car, so I'll take any advice that anyone's willing to toss my way. been doing a lot of searching, but I'm sure I'll be posting my Q's on here in no time.

 

oh and one thing, after the car warms up and I come to a stop, it starts to idle funny. it drops down to like, 500 or 600 rpm and then jumps back to 1000 and then down again and then up again...
is that a result of having CTR cams on a stock ecm? Or... is it normal? it stops after about 3-5 minutes of idling and stays normal...
jw what anyone thinks.

 

Do you have any CEL's? that you can tell, I don't know how the S2k cluster displays them or even if it can, but you may want to get an ODB2 reader if it doesn't (or just fix why it doesn't)
To check

If not, there are some basic things you can do to make sure things are good.
Mechanical timing, ignition timing, cleaning your IACV, making sure all of your sensors are calibrated properly (MAP, etc).

What ECU is the car using currently? a stock EM1 used the P2t ECU, considering you listed you have a JDM B16 swap, It really shouldn't be using a P2t but instead the ECU it came with; and yes, changing the cams without tuning will cause issues, CTR/ITR cams or not.

 

yeah i just remembered the codes i read.
P1337 CFS no signal... something with the crank sensor. and the other was an 02 heater code. thats it.
And im not familiar with the ecu's or how to tell which they are? i think its the matching one, but is there an easy way to tell when i get home after work?

 

JDM block with a USDM ecu is going to throw the CKF code.

This will fix it. http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm

 

Passenger side kick plate, your ECU is a big metal box, stamp should look similar to this


If I recall, most imported engines don't have crank position sensors, you can crawl under, remove the inspection plate and look, if they're using the ODB2B harness, you should see an open plug near where it should go.

O2 sensor code? pull them again, find out exactly which one(s).

 

that makes sense, thank you guys!! this is the most helpful forum ive been on... screw the Contour SVT forums and Saturn Ion Redline forums, haha.
Ill check her out when i get home and let you all know!
but that doesnt explain the jumpy idle... but neither does it worry me since it seems to go away after 3 or so minutes...
Ill check everything mentioned above when im home as well. Not driving the car currently, because im waiting until i do an oil and coolant change. dont want to add an engine to my list of things to replace...

 

Fix your CEL's then work on diagnosing the rest
Trust me.
when was the last time the timing belt, belt tensioner and water pump were done?

 

Looks like it'll be a fun project. Keep the updates coming. Are you going to buff out the cf hood or just replace it with an oem?

 

well the heater wire is more than likely because I don't believe there's an o2 sensor hooked up. had that issue with my RSX-S
does anyone know, on these engines will the readings from the o2 sensors tell the ecu to adjust the timing/afr?
I know they would slightly with my 05 Saturn Ion Redline.

 

and I'm not sure, I kinda like the look of a black hood with white wheels, but I might keep the cf and do matching graphite wheels?
and can you just buff carbon fiber like you would paint? cuz I can buff paint like a mother and make the worst scratches go away...

 

oh and I spoke to a master tech I work with, I guess the idle issue I thought I was having is completely normal. he used to be a Honda fan boy and I guess his cars did that. makes me feel much better!

 

It's a normal issue but not normal operation for it to do that. Get some brake clean and spray out the iacv and let it dry or air hose it.

 

Okay. Are you sure? I dont mean to cross you, but the two techs i talked with are ASE Master techs, hah. And one owned his EK EX sohc for 100k miles and he said his did that all the time. only if it got excesive, that it would be an issue, possibly exhaust and intake. but they assured me its a honda and even toyota thing.
BUT! Still thank you for the advice, ill double check my iacv and clean that out for good measure!

 

Like Marvin said, it's normal to happen, but it's easy to fix, and should not be considered "normal operation". Anyone can get ASE - don't let a fancy title sway you.

 

I see, I'll take your guys word for it.
I have to wait a little bit before I can get to it, as I have to clear out my dads shop so I can park her inside and get to work. it'll be a couple days, but I should have her in Friday night
what else might cause that besides a dirty iacv?

 

I've never had CF but I do know you can't just sand or buff out scratches. They have a lacquer on them I believe to protect it from damage both physical and UV. If you want to fix scratches you have to relacquer the damaged area then blend in.

 

Post #9, second paragraph.

 

sounds good, thank you.
Also, Im in need of a new oil dip stick for the car, would one for a 2000 Si work in the B16a? I imagine it would, but I'm ordering one from my dealer and I assumed he wouldn't be able to look one up for the JDM motor.