well here she is, the newer ride. high mileage, low rust. got its dings but all in all not bad.

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info.
97 Honda accord se.

engine.
stock f22b2.

trans.
auto.

interior.
Panasonic headunit.

exterior.
stock.

future mods.
more h.p.
5 lug swap and brake upgrade.
oem exterior pieces.
battery relocate to trunk.
manual trans swap.
lowering springs.
diy blackhouse stock lights.
more h.p.


thanks for looking. work in progress so lots of pics.

 

When your relocate your battery I would suggest using 0 gauge and ground it as much as possible. I had nothing but problems when I relocated mine. Looks like it has potential though, keep us updated.

 

for sure. last time I did a relocate I used stock 0 gauge cable from a Lincoln ls. even had the smaller wire for the fuse box. worked excellent.
I did however wonder about this 4 gauge wire I have on hand but think ill just wait now after your suggestion to avoid any issues. it definitely doesn't seem like its up to the task like the Lincoln ls cable.

 

update.
been working a lot but got a weekend off here so I have some time to post some things. this work was done in the past week or so.

upgrade.
5lug swap with bigger brakes, rear disc swap.
oem 96 isuzu oasis 15in alloys plasti dipped.(not so much upgrade here)

parts used.
96 isuzu oasis complete front spindle knuckles. hubs, rotors, pads, calipers.
96 accord rear disc knuckles with calipers, pads.
97-01 prelude rear hubs.
97-01 prelude rear spindle nut.
had to purchase the new lower strut mount bushings because of froze up bolts.

before operation.
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comparison of oasis knuckles to stock.
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halfway.
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finished. playing around.
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oh and some amber corners. putting parts together for manual trans conversion. a bit more of a pita on a cd5 rather than a cb7 from what I read about having to drill clutch mc mounting holes. but im sure can be done.
thanks for looking.

 

when I first put the swap and finally went for a ride, the bearings started to sing to me.
damn it!!
another 3hr job and problem solved.

if doing this, if you have the money now, it is a good idea to hook it up with all new components now, instead of later.
don't be a dumby like me. lol

this thing needs moar low. what you guys think? suggestions?

 

Drilling the holes aren't that bad, since there is a template already welded up to the firewall. I just drilled the stud holes out with a regular drill, and drilled a bunch of small holes around the outside of the plunger hole and then took a file and cleaned it all up. It is time consuming but in the end it is worth it. For more low I'd get skunk2 coilovers. I think I saw some on ebay for like 500. I really like the color of the car man, looking forward to how it turns out.

 

Hey man nice accord. Dont forget to check out the brake lines for the rear wheels because I didnt and I almost killed myself. They get pretty rusty and eventually break. I thought my accord was one of the cleanest ones out there but I was wrong. So take time and inspect them thoroughly. Safety first man Good luck and keep us posted.

 

well, that doesn't sound too bad, assuming I can get up there with the tools I have lol. I have decided on doing it so its a go. my buddy just hooked me up with a motor and trans out of a 98 accord. looking to use that stuff in near future.thanks for the suggestions man!

 

good looking out on that... your right safety is no joke. yes I had however took the time to look at the lines. they didn't look perfect, but they didn't seem too far gone. its got its small spots of rust but not very common areas.
not sure how long its been in ohio but it was either a southern car brought up to ohio or it was maintained and garage kept.
honestly at first I suspected it to be a flood vehicle, and I still haven't cancelled out that notion.

 

so, I accumulated a f23a1 and manual trans. pretty much the whole swap. known to run excellent since I witnessed it run. now wondering if I should build up the f22 non- vtec, or f23 vtec. I want to boost and I want to make sure my motor will put up with It daily. so what to do............

 

I'm not sure how the f23 fits - if its a straight drop in or what, but I know those little f22's are great on boost, not too sure about the f23's. I'd look into it but then again if the f22 has more mileage.... I'm gonna need more details lol

 

The F23 might be ulev?

 

from what ive seen around online here the f23 has weaker rods? not positive, perhaps they are not as beefy? idk
I do know it is non-ulev.
anyway, my bud ended up needing it back so no go on the f23.
still got the trans tho. im about to take it to work to wash it down.

I got the shifter assy and cables from the 99 accord and wondering if anyone has used this setup in a cd5?
I have searched and for the life of me cant find anything on that subject.

also, I got an obd2a ecu plug that I tediously unsoldered away from the breadboard of a ecu and the three obd1 harness plugs with pigtails in an attempt to make a conversion harness.

 

went ahead and cleaned out the egr ports. man was it carboned up. I wish I would have taken some pictures because these holes were clogged. all of 'em! just another thing done to this thing.

 

been a little while, about a month. haven't done too much, its cold, I have no garage yet, and funds are low.

I have bled my brakes numerous times and still have the same result. somewhat squishy pedal.
started doing some part interchanging and came up with that my stock m/c and booster are smaller than what my oasis brakes call for. that being said I need a bigger m/c and booster.
so here in the near future im going to be doing this as well.

as tax time nears im going over my options for motor and trans setup.
jdm f22b (2) sohc (low mileage).w/ turbo setup
n/a usdm h22a4.
I need these motors to be able to pass emissions when the time comes.
I will be converted to obd1 for the times being. but I also need to support obd2 as well.

to anyone who has done this swap, is it safe to say that a bigger m/c and booster will solve my issue? did it solve yours if you did it? thanks for any input.

 

went to the jy today and it yielded some results.
94-95 front lip.
92-96 prelude shifter assy and cables.
no name catback.
shift boot.,.



going to clean up this lip and thinking of painting it satin black.

 

well, as you all probably know, its freaking cold and I had a major issue on one off these ridiculously cold nights. the so called antifreeze in my car froze up.
it was a very cold ride home from work the other day. and its always my luck something like this happens in the winter.
anyway got to do the cooling system flush. this is what came out..

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looked nasty as I was flushing it. last owner must have neglected this thing just a bit, which is not too good, but can be dealt with.

 

That was your coolant? Geez! I'd flush that thing thoroughly a few times with some distilled water and then hit it with some new OEM Honda blue coolant.

 

it took a good 20 minutes with engine running for it to run out clear! it looked like puke coming out.
this thing gets warm almost instantly now. yay!
ended up using some prestone extended life coolant. the green stuff. was thinking of the Honda blue. should have went that way to keep it genuine.

 

Damn that's some nasty coolant. I remember when I flushed mine, the overflow tank had this caked on layer of crud and old coolant inside. Is there any benefit when using the blue coolant? Prestone seems to work fine.

 

Might be worthwhile to re-flush in a few to make sure you get stuff out. The distilled water is a good way to flush because you can see the color of the water as it comes out.

 

The OEM Honda blue coolant is just a long-life (100k) coolant that's OEM Honda stuff.

 

that would be a good idea. may do this this weekend if I can catch a day off work. its supposed to be above freezing here in OH.

 

so was looking at my car today and decided to do something so I went ahead and put this 94-95 front lip on.

I cut the lip in such a way that I could retain the stock hardware. plus 2 zipties.
before the operation.
Attachment 350716.

cut up lip and starting to mount.
Attachment 350717.
Attachment 350718.

and the finished product.
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hope all is well folks.

 

How long did it take to do your 5-lug swap? I've been contemplating doing it if I can scrounge the parts up cheap enough. You're fairly close to me, too.