Hi everyone,

I just purchased a 1994 Accord 2DR with the Vtech engine, I believe it is the F22..something engine, but not too familiar with these cars which is why I stopped by here.

Anyway the car is throwing a CEL 4 which is apparently faulty crank sensor/ecu or wiring problem.

I am trying to rule out whether the sensor is at fault here because other than that the rest of the distributor seems to be working fine. I have not opened it to look for corrosion, but I got out my multimeter to check the resistance.


From research the right wires to check are the blu/grn and blue/yellow wire. I found this info from a fella with the same problem on his civic. I found the same color wires in the same spot on my harness. I also found that you want to look for a resistance range of 350 and 700

This is the page right here @ the bottom,

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/crankshaft-position-sensor-2648754/

Should I just follow what this guy said about the civic?d16?


I am getting 10.45 from the ECU harness, I accidentally checked the wrong harness I think. the 350-700 range should be on the distributor end of the harness right?

any advice would be appreciated I have been searching endless and I apologize if I am repeating already said issue.


relating notes:

The car runs fine btw until I stomp on the gas, then it sounds like I have a really bad launch system installed on my car. It is kind of hard to explain, but basically the car acts like it has a rev limiter installed at 3000-4000 rpm

 

 

I did it wrong, please read update below

 

update:

So I finally checked the resistance for my engine (f22B1) @ the sensor and I had

.800 K ohms which i gather is between 700-1300, is this correct?

I also checked the sensor for continuity and it was completely dead, no beeps on the multimeter at all at either end of the terminals on the SENSOR, does this mean its the sensor or the ecm? I assume sensor right?

Sorry but according to the diagram I am supposed to check the wiring and ignore the sensor if there is no continuity? this makes no sense to me...could someone explain this a little better.

Could I check the voltage on the ECM harness? if so does anyone know what it is which the key in ON position?


Thanks

 

Yes .800kOhm or 800 Ohms is between 700 - 1300 ohms.

You do not use continuity to test these sensors. You use continuity when testing the wires between the sensor connector and the ECU. If I'm not mistaken. The sensor will not have 000 continuity if you are showing 800 ohms of resistance.

 

Thanks, ok so I deleted this because I thought it did not make sense, but I recorded a resistance of 10.4 k ohms between B15/B16 at the connector that connects to the sensor.


I can not find any info on whether that is within spec or not, I got that recording with the ignition completely off.


Tomorrow I am going to check the resistance at the ECM harness where I should receive the same .800 reading, if not it is probably the ECM at fault right?

 

The only time in my life I threw a code for this was after I just blown my coil and dust had dissipated all over the distributor. This dust covered the crank sensor intersecting surface with the rotor shaft. You should clean that surface area with brake cleaner and perhaps even gently scrape it with a flat head screwdriver. If your distributor is oily it could have blanketed that same surface as well.

 

Update in case anyone has the same problem:

Distributor swap did not work.


Engine still starts up and is very smooth untill about 3k rpm, then it sounds like it has launch control installed lol...

Next up to check is the ECU or ECM

Has anyone else have had this problem? it seems like in most cases this problem points to a bad connection at the ECU or a faulty board (bad resistor exc..)

Will check mine tomorrow and report back, I have an ecu coming to me for 50 bucks on teusday. I really hope that fixes things, this is such a headache..

 

I just blown my coil and dust had dissipated all over the distributor.

 

I wish that was the case man, I opened up the old one and it was virtually spotless, barley any dust anywhere. I even dumped a can of electrical cleaner on it which made it a lot shinier, but still throwing the code

 

Probably either a wiring issue or the ecu is bad.

 

RESPONDED TO READERS NOTE: Same/Simular problem. I did not have the proper oil pressure sensor for my vehicle in it. You could get up to a decent speed just very slow. If you took the RPMs and a range of 2500-4000 ( especially while moving) it would drop the RPMs and jerk the car somewhat acting like you hita rev limiter.