I have a swapped 92 civic dx with an obd1 b16a.

When I pull away from a stop with long idle, or a cold start from my driveway. i'm first or second and @ very low RPM. When I give partial throttle the engine sort of hesitates and the RPM's fail to go up and it will last a few seconds and I shift to a higher gear and it seems to get rid of the problem momentarily

*Engine uses minimal coolant with no signs of leaks on the block
*Cleaned IACV
*Bled engine coolant with spill free funnel and with bleeder open and heater on.
*Plugs changed and with proper gap
*Driver's side axle boot has been torn for nearly 11 months.

 

What? Get that axle boot fixed!!!! Youre lucky your drivers wheel hasnt seized up on you. That should be your first priority.

 

Replace the whole driveshaft not just the CV boot....that's too long to go like that why didn't you just replace it when it ripped ?

 

Honestly out of negligence and laziness. I've also been repairing other things on the car and the axle hasn't made any noise even when steering wheel is at full lock. I'll be replacing it this week when I have access to a garage. And yeah I plan on doing the entire driveshaft. So do you guys think that's my issue

 

Do you have any CELs? What ECU are you using? Mods?

 

No CELs whatsoever. P28 ecu

Mods are..Apexi ws2 catback exhaust with a 1st gen rs*r header. No name short ram intake with cheap filter. Also, has a type r intake manifold on a stock b16a engine with S4C trans.

 

Is the P28 chipped for a B16a?

 

I had the entire setup in my old hatch and everything ran healthy

 

 

Yeah i assume so since it ran with that exact ecu I never got it chipped it was the previous owner that did to get it to run with the car. I pulled the setup along with ecu and everything from another obd1 eg hatch

 

bumpp will be replacing axle this week so ill post how that helps the issue.

 

Is there any chance it could be a fuel issue? i have a completely stock fuel system. I'm also going to be inspecting my spark plug wires because I read in another post someone was having similar issues and theyre wires were all knicked up everywhere

 

I had this sort of issue with my z6. I had to accelerate very slowly or it would sputter like hell. Best way to describe it. Did everything with the ignition system and some. The distributor internals ended up being the problem. So cap & rotor won't do the job.

 

Also above 2.5k rpm it would rev fine when flooring it.

 

does it only happen when u pull away on low revs....if so play around with your dizzy timing

 

Sometimes it'll hesitate even cruising at 50 mph in 4th or 5th and I floor the gas pedal it will hesitate for like 1000 rpm until lik 3500 and then start pull like it normally should

 

 

im having kinda the same problem
i put a b16a in my 95 ex coupe an im getting low idle an a little hesitation like i can take off real quick.
the car it came out was a 92 hatch an i litterally have everything from that car for the swap an it ran perfect an fast in the hatch.
it just seems like its slower than my d series
if i tried i couldnt burn out i guess an when i hit like 3-5k rpms you can feel it like bump a little an hesitate then.
i clocked tps perfectly an it is the older style manifold what do you think?
like i said ran perfect in previous car an did swap day after i pulled it out the hatch.

 

how old is dist cap, rotor and wires? just went through this changed all three. runs ok now

 

idk. all we checked were the wires. but i noticed on the older style manifold it had a whole in the back were a nipple should be for a vac line so we closed it an it made it idle way lower so we advanced distib to calculate an its all the way over an its running soooo much better i mean alot
i just have a little more tweeks an im done like my throttle doesnt wanna return all the way sometimes so its like it gets stuck id