A friend and I were beginning an all-OEM headlight chime install as per deschlong's writeup. I had never dug into any wiring before, and we found an offensive bundle of wires and crap from an old non-functional Clifford security system. Since it was all in the way, the first step was to rip it all out (carefully).

We succeeded, and the car runs and all systems work, but there are two factory wires coming from the wiring harness bundle on the left side D/S kick panel:



They are GREEN/RED and GREEN/WHITE. They are simply capped off and I've taped them to the harness to keep them out of the way. They had previously been spliced into the security system but the wires they connected to dead-ended into nothing. We also cannot find any other remnants of these two wires, such as stubs coming from a connector. They may have been de-pinned.

I'm looking at wiring diagrams in the FSM, but having trouble determining what these two wires are supposed to go to. Any ideas?

This is a 95 LX Sedan. All of the options are functional (to my knowledge). The troubleshooting would be easier if something didn't work.

The chime install also was not totally successful in that the chime did not work. However, everything else continues to work, so that is a success in itself! I am curious if these 2 mystery wires could somehow be related...

Thanks for any ideas.

 

Those wires operate the power locks. They are originally meant to plug in to the OEM Security System accessory but of course can be tapped in to for an aftermarket one (conveniently).

Now ... on to the second issue of the chime not working. Tell me more ........

 

Thanks for jumping in! And thanks for the answer. Good to know that those wires can simply be left alone.

My friend has successfully done this update to his Civic previously. He was kind enough to find me an integra ICM and a chime from the junkyard. Of course we did not have a way to verify if they were functional.

We followed the de-pin and re-pin procedure as per your writeup. We can't have screwed it up too badly since all of the other functions still work properly (lights, wipers, etc.)

But when the lights are on, driver's door is open, and key is out of ignition the chime does not go off.

My next step will be to take a voltmeter to it. Would it make sense to apply 12V across the chime to see if it dings? I will also check the chime connector to see if it is getting a signal. Should it come as a pulse? I suppose I could use my noid light (aka LED) to verify.

 

Yah, try giving the chime 12V power and ground and see if it dings ... should make a lovely little 'plink plonk' sound.

 

So the other funny thing I noticed is that my seatbelt alarm now goes off. The light always worked (on when unbuckled and vice versa) but I never had the alarm when I start the car before buckling up. Weird!

 

Jordan, I noticed mine does that now too after the ICU swap, I thought it was odd never hearing it before, doubly odd that they installed the buzzer without the function at factory.

 

How do we get rid of it??

 

^ Unplug the connector under your driver seat.

 

but then the light wont come on anymore.

 

I say find the buzzer and then kill it.

 

Fact is, if there was no seat belt ding sound before then your old ICU wasn't functioning properly, and now it does.

To disable the seat belt ding you'd need to open up the ICU and figure out how to disable it internally.

I don't know why you both didn't have a seat belt chime but that is not how that feature should operate anyway.

 

We are working on the issue now (the headlight chime). The connector to the dinger has an always on 12V. When I pulled the chime out it was warm! Putting 12V to the chime causes it to ding like normal. The chime is connected into the front of the fuse box (green connector) as per your instructions. Next step is that we will check the rear connection.

 

I opened up the ICU and it would appear there is a suspect transistor on the board. I refreshed the solder joints just in case but it still kept supplying a constant 12v to the chime, I looked inside the original ICU and it had some transistors inside it as well but they where stubbier that the one in question so I didn't try and swap them out for fear of screwing up something worse...

 

Are you guys close by to each other? Can one of you swap a functioning ICU into the others' since you have both now done this mod? This will eliminate installation issues and narrow it down to a dysfunctional part.

 

yes, we are just a few minutes from each other, I thought about swapping them around but, just. didn't. we will do that soon enough though!