Literally. Anyways, I have a 93 honda civic ex with a 99-00 civic si b16a2 motor and tranny. My ECU I have in it is a P2T. My car had one problem after the next. One day the battery died and I had Autozone test it while on the car when I jumped it one day. They say the alternator's voltage regulator is bad. So i replaced it, then it died again, they said it was the battery with 2 dead cells. In about 2 months time, I went through 3 batteries and 6 alternators thinking those where the problems. The batteries had all been load tested, and I checked the voltage out of the back of the alternator to see if the correct voltage was coming out of it. Meanwhile the radiator fan switch is not working, replaced it, still doesnt work. How do i know? Well, put a paper clip in the sensor and the fan kicks right on while the car is running. Ended up taking the entire dash out and getting behind the blower motor and heater core to check all the internal wiring harness. Also pulled out the engine wiring harness. Everything is in good condition with no shorts.

But wait, there's more! Since I put the dash back in, the car has been having a mind of its own. First, it was fine right after I put the dash back in, ran great for a couple days. I let the car sit over the weekend after a heavy rain, and boom, its starts going crazy, (btw it was NOT flooded) I tried starting it and it took forever. And it bogs up when I try and start it and once I finally get it started I press on the gas and it wants to die so i pump the gas until it stops the bogging. Then it drives fine. No problems. Now, once its warmed up, it will start right up, despite the fact that it is still having the starting problem from not even wanting to turn over. Which is an entire different problem on its own that ill explain later. If i let it sit for a while, you know a couple hours, it will do the same thing and want to bog up.

Okay, so now, with the bogging problem, it is starting to get super cold outside. So, on the cold nights, I'd say below 45 degrees F outside, my car does this weird thing, it'll do the exact same thing, bog up, and while im tapping the gas, the speedometer will go crazy! It will jump all over the place, and I'm not even moving! Added to this, yesterday it would start up and it the speedometer would start to go up and everything turned off while the key was on, no dash lights or anything. I knew it was still on because i could hear the fan running. I turned the key back and then forward and it started up. No bogging that time, even though today it did the same thing and had a bog.

Okay, now for the starting problem. I done replaced the spark plugs in case you guys were wondering, and didnt help my problem AT ALL! Even though the old ones were burnt up. So when i go to sit in my car, I pull my key out, put it in the ignition and go to start the car, well, usually I have to hold my breath and hope for the best that it will turn over. Half the time it doesnt click. I know when it clicks because it will try to turn once and then click 100 times. No, it just decides to dim and (barely) click once. But, if I put the jump box on it it decides to turn over. I thought that might be because the battery is low, but no, its not. Because when it started doing the dying once I got it started, it wouldnt start with the jump box on it.

So as you can see, this is long, but i would greatly appreciate any responses that would help. I really do think its the ecu, and I would like to be 100% sure that it is, so thanks in advance guys!

 

Ill brb

Ill have to re-read this when I have more time



Can you make some cliffs on it

 

Huge freaking electrical problem. lol.

Bad alternator
Bad battery
Radiator fan switch
Dash
wiring harnesses
dash back in
crazy speedometer problems (including intermittent cold crank)
Once warmed up is fine to restart
spark plugs replaced
start does not always work, for some reason

other than that, the only thing I haven't told you is that i have CEL code 6 which means there is something wrong with the cooling system. But everything is hooked up!

 

the bogging and slow to start sounds like there may be an open spot in your fuel system allowing air in and the line to depressurise causing your fuel pump to reprime the system with said leak?

I have experienced alternator/charging systems showing bad alternator situation when the harmonic balancer lost its woodruff key and intermittently spun on crank, this would feel like power steering was failing due to it being off the same pulley on crank.

It sounds like you have a couple of shorts or possibly bad grounds which might explain the erratic nature of your electric issues.

Good luck

 

How can I have a fuel leak if I'm getting gas?once it cranks over I'm burning really rich. So the fuel pump is still putting gas in as I'm cranking. But when I start it I have to keep pumpin the gas because it will just die. It then starts to back fire. Then after a few minutes it will settle out and drive like normal.

 

You say you are using a P2T. What engine wiring harness are you using?

 

Check the ground from the trans to the chassis.
Check if your fuel pressure regulator has a torn diaphragm.
Remove your distributor cap and check for moisture.

 

I am using the wiring harness that came with the motor. I think the only thing that had to be changed was the alternator cable. And maybe the distributor cable. Everything else is plug n play. The alternator is an obd2 instead of obd1. I have an obd1 to obd2 adapter kit for the ecu (i think that's the way it goes, or the other way around)

 

Sounds like you have a bad ground somewhere and also a bad ECT sensor, the one that is threaded directly into the head. Under the dizzy.

 

I guarantee if for fix the code 6 half of your problems will vanish, the bogging, the starting, the ect reads coolant temp and tells the computer to add more fuel to warm the car up faster, adjusts spark, controls egr function. It's a critical sensor. Make sure the sensor and wiring is all good!!!

 

Using a multimeter, check for voltage from the negative battery terminal to the engine block, there shouldn't be any at all, if you see voltage you have a bad ground!

 

And as far as the battery goes you need to check for parasitic draw, with a multimeter. It shouldn't be more then 50 miliamps

 

Okay, so I had the wrong connector on the sensor. So I plugged the right one in an the bogging stopped. Anyway I got about half way to work and the cel came back on. Now it's throwin code 6 and code 23. So I went ahead and replaced the sensor. Got up to operating temperature and cel comes back on again with the same 2 codes. Any help at all?

 

You sure you have the right connector on it now? Did you buy a new or used sensor? Try testing the sensor's resistance/voltage values as per the manual.

 

If you're using a harness without a knock sensor plug, that explains code 23. Maybe your engine came with a D series harness? You might also have broken the knock sensor. People always break them. It's located under the intake manifold...near the oil pressure sensor on the back of the block.

You really should go with an OBD1 ECU. You're running obd1 equipment and that ECU is always going to be looking for OBD2B chassis sensors/equipment.

You need a JDM/USDM (good luck on the USDM) OBD1 B16 ECU. Or a chipped ECU that does not need a knock sensor to read. Or...wire in a knock sensor.

 

You probably also have a ground or two that are out of place.

 

I bought a brand new sensor for $25 (damn outrageous...) and it was still throwing that. I'm sure I got the right sensor on because I checked the wiring diagram for wire colors. Other than that I have not checked for resistance yet. I'm going to do the diagnosis from the manual once I get the chance.

 

Also, now the speed sensor is throwing it's code (17 I think) but it works once the car warms up but the code is still on. This is ridiculous.