97 civic timing belt questions.
Hello, I have been trying to change the timing belt on my 97 civic hatchback (ej9) and I noticed a couple of things that where strange.
I finally got the drivebelt-pulley off and noticed there was no CKF sensor (purple) on the engine, despite there being mounts for it on the block and pictures of it both in the Haynes book and service manual.
I assume there is no CKF sensor in this location on my car? (engine is D14A4, I think the computer is called OBD2-a, according to wikipedia)

Also, I struggle to find the timing marks on the timing belt drive pulley, as there is no sprocket surface (red) as pictured here. In other words, the surface that the CKF sensor would normally read from, and the surface that you would normally use to make sure the crank is positioned correctly (#1 TDC)

Instead, on my engine, there are two of those loose concave belt holders (yellow) (not sure what the proper name is, hence the color coding).
Is this normal?
Do I have to re-apply the auxiliary drivebelt-pulley/bolt/pin AND the lower cover to make sure its in the right position?
That seems like a pain to take on and off while I apply the new belt, so I would really appreciate if anyone had any tips here.
Is it OK to use a marker?
Thanks
I finally got the drivebelt-pulley off and noticed there was no CKF sensor (purple) on the engine, despite there being mounts for it on the block and pictures of it both in the Haynes book and service manual.
I assume there is no CKF sensor in this location on my car? (engine is D14A4, I think the computer is called OBD2-a, according to wikipedia)

Also, I struggle to find the timing marks on the timing belt drive pulley, as there is no sprocket surface (red) as pictured here. In other words, the surface that the CKF sensor would normally read from, and the surface that you would normally use to make sure the crank is positioned correctly (#1 TDC)

Instead, on my engine, there are two of those loose concave belt holders (yellow) (not sure what the proper name is, hence the color coding).
Is this normal?
Do I have to re-apply the auxiliary drivebelt-pulley/bolt/pin AND the lower cover to make sure its in the right position?
That seems like a pain to take on and off while I apply the new belt, so I would really appreciate if anyone had any tips here.

Is it OK to use a marker?
Thanks
My guess, and this is pure speculation, is that your CKF exists inside the distributor housing on that model engine. Also, the timing mark likely exists on the gear behind the outer concave washer/belt guide (it's hard to see). Also be sure to install those concave washers with the lip facing out from the belt (really the outside one should be the only one that comes off).
The attachment points for the CKF near the crank pulley area are probably just cast into every block regardless of final engine configuration as a cost saving measure. Again this is all pure speculation on my part maybe someone more knowledgeable on this engine model can chime in.
The attachment points for the CKF near the crank pulley area are probably just cast into every block regardless of final engine configuration as a cost saving measure. Again this is all pure speculation on my part maybe someone more knowledgeable on this engine model can chime in.
You could place the timing cover and pulley/key on momentarily to get the crank in time and then take it off being careful not to move the crank and apply your own mark on the crank gear, if none exist.
My guess, and this is pure speculation, is that your CKF exists inside the distributor housing on that model engine. Also, the timing mark likely exists on the gear behind the outer concave washer/belt guide (it's hard to see). Also be sure to install those concave washers with the lip facing out from the belt (really the outside one should be the only one that comes off).
The attachment points for the CKF near the crank pulley area are probably just cast into every block regardless of final engine configuration as a cost saving measure. Again this is all pure speculation on my part maybe someone more knowledgeable on this engine model can chime in.
The attachment points for the CKF near the crank pulley area are probably just cast into every block regardless of final engine configuration as a cost saving measure. Again this is all pure speculation on my part maybe someone more knowledgeable on this engine model can chime in.
Thank you for the help, guys! I really appreciate it. 
Both the air filter and pollen filter where gone when I bought it. Good to know Im not missing a CKF sensor too.
What if its already jumped a tooth or two? (its been sputtering)
The gear is completely naked. I just feel uncomfortable using the aux. drivebelt-pulley for timing. It feels inaccurate somehow. But Oh well.
Also, the gates timing-belt kit came with a tensioner pulley and a belt, but no tensioner spring. Is it blasphemy to use the 16 yr. old spring when tensioning the belt?

Both the air filter and pollen filter where gone when I bought it. Good to know Im not missing a CKF sensor too.
My guess, and this is pure speculation, is that your CKF exists inside the distributor housing on that model engine. Also, the timing mark likely exists on the gear behind the outer concave washer/belt guide (it's hard to see). Also be sure to install those concave washers with the lip facing out from the belt (really the outside one should be the only one that comes off).
The attachment points for the CKF near the crank pulley area are probably just cast into every block regardless of final engine configuration as a cost saving measure. Again this is all pure speculation on my part maybe someone more knowledgeable on this engine model can chime in.
The attachment points for the CKF near the crank pulley area are probably just cast into every block regardless of final engine configuration as a cost saving measure. Again this is all pure speculation on my part maybe someone more knowledgeable on this engine model can chime in.
Also, the gates timing-belt kit came with a tensioner pulley and a belt, but no tensioner spring. Is it blasphemy to use the 16 yr. old spring when tensioning the belt?
The extension method will work for determining TDC. The used spring is of no concern. Once the belt is on you will want to tension the belt by hand anyway. The spring never gets enough tension on it. I always give a little extra tug on the tensioner to make sure it's tight.
You should use the spring for setting tension, but once the tensioner is locked the spring does nothing. If the spring looks visually ok (no metal worn away on the hooks) then reuse it. Your only concern is if the spring were to come off and get lodged in the belt/gear which is unlikely. Make sure your tensioner slides super smoothly through its travel or your tension may not come out accurately. Also, do a tensioning procedure, then rotate the engine by hand a few times, then set it to TDC and carefully do the tension procedure again. This allows the belt to find it's true path and align itself on all the pulleys.
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The extension method will work for determining TDC. The used spring is of no concern. Once the belt is on you will want to tension the belt by hand anyway. The spring never gets enough tension on it. I always give a little extra tug on the tensioner to make sure it's tight.
You should use the spring for setting tension, but once the tensioner is locked the spring does nothing. If the spring looks visually ok (no metal worn away on the hooks) then reuse it. Your only concern is if the spring were to come off and get lodged in the belt/gear which is unlikely. Make sure your tensioner slides super smoothly through its travel or your tension may not come out accurately. Also, do a tensioning procedure, then rotate the engine by hand a few times, then set it to TDC and carefully do the tension procedure again. This allows the belt to find it's true path and align itself on all the pulleys.
This makes sense. Thanks, guys!
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DeDonDeRosa
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Dec 16, 2005 09:40 AM




