Car does not see the city stop n go traffic, only the back roads in the country and track(time attack). so all drivability cons out of the way are pucks really worth the extra money/shorter life ? have a 12lb CC flywheel just stuck on picking a clutch any input ?. only other clutch I replaced was my dd civic's lol

which one does last the longest fullface or puck
or something in between like this CC stage 3(it's like half puck half full face).

 

if you're not making the hp/tq to warrant a puck style clutch, don't get one. simple as that. people talk about over camming all the time, but people over clutch more often than not.

a simple exedy oem or stage 1 will be more than enough for 90% of people and last thousands and thousands of miles.

 

this

unless you have a turbo setup an exedy 1 will handle any NA engine and they drive wonderful

ceramic and metallic clutches are hard on the drivetrain and chatter. even that exedy 2 which people said drives great...doesn't it chatters like hell on take off

 

I think I worded this wrong I'm not worried if the clutch can/will be able to handle the HP/TQ i'm worried with the type of driving the car does how long will that exedy stage 1lets say hold up ?. will I be in need of a replacement in a years time ? that's why i'm looking into pucks/carbon Kevlar full faces. I'm always one to say oem/stage 1 in most cases for DD's thx for the replys

 

I think what there getting at is you never really said what power your car is making . Is this a stock motor? Turbo? How much power? Most NA power can be held by a exedy stg 1 full disc and still take a beating. But if your car is making 400+WHP you need minimum 6 puck lol.

And I believe the clutch will really last as long as you're good to it. Im sure there is better composites tho but I image they come in more race application.

 

i beat on an exedy stage 1 for 2 years with an itr combo doing autocross, canyon runs, burnouts, when i pulled it to go stage 2 for boost the clutch still looked great. i can not tell you how much better the stage 1 is to operate than the stage 2.

if you're not boosted get an exedy 1. they take a beating, are inexpensive and drive wonderful

the exedy 1 is my favorite aftermarket clutch of all time actually. so much so that the clutch i have for my z06 made by monster uses and very similar setup to the honda exedy 1, just larger and with more pressure. it's going in soon

 

So it comes down to if I beat on an exedy stage 1 it would wear down just as fast as that stage 3 CC one i'm looking at ?. car makes just shy of 200whp as of now, B20V will be assembled for spring time. just trying to better understand this thx

 

you seriously do not make anywhere close to warrant a stage 4 (6 puck) clutch. stick with a stage 1 excedy

 

FWIW, Ive have a exedy stage 1 on my car for 3-4 years and its held up fine. Don't really launch it or anything like that but its held up to my 350~hp boosted b20v and hasn't slipped on me yet. Like everyone else said it has great pedal feel and drivability too.

 

Ok so a clutches "stage" does NOT have an effect on how fast it will wear from aggressive driving ?. A stage 3 clutch will wear just as fast as a stage 1 ? in theory if you did the exact same driving on both of them. Thought the higher stage ones could take more of a beating/track use

 

The higher the stage, the higher rated is is. Thats not to say a stage 1 can't hold the same power as a stage 3 depending on they style of driving, but it won't hold nearly as long as the stage 3 if you beat on it 24/7. It'll probably just come down to the material used on the disc that'll determine wear though.

 

ceramic and metallic clutches actually wear faster than organic. more aggressive friction compound. a simple 200whp engine has WAY more than enough clutch on an exedy1. without a turbo these engines make no torque and torque is how a clutch is rated

some of the ceramic and metallic puc clutches can handle 500whp turbo cars with no trouble. they drive like on/off switches and should only be used in dedicated track cars as they glaze with street driving and shake everytime you take off.

 

I couldn't have said it better. If you're not making the power to justify it, why would you want to deal with running a pucked clutch? When considering clutches for my STi, i'm looking at the Clutchmasters FX300 simply because it ISN'T a pucked clutch.

 

i'm making 200wtq and the only reason i just picked up a clutchmasters stage 4 6-puck is because i race it every week. i abuse the hell out of the car and it keeps coming back for more. the exedy oem on there now has lasted surprisingly well and has only recently started slipping.

 

I was glad i went back to an Exedy oem. My ACT 4 puck served me well when I was boosted, but sucked on I95 stop and go traffic

 

just curious what category does Kevlar and carbon/Kevlar disc's fall into ?(full face)

 

I would get a stage 4 cc grabs better and feels great not too hard not too soft on the pedal. The chatter is nothing man. The ones who complain about it are pussies who can't handle it and much rather worry bout the clutch not making sound than look at the performance smh. I like the chatter, it makes the car feel aggressive.

 

you just went full potato

should've just told him to get a twin disk. just as stupid and less words.

 

They're in-between, but I've heard of some kevlar clutches glazing up from the heat during track days.

 

I was using this clutch in a ef crx with a b16a2 with zero mod's.

was used as a weekend semi daily/skid's and track hack that never seen the track =p but was good! gave it a really aggresive feeling like it had a L.S.D when taking off (i had a ys1 lsd before) was fine for town driving if your a half decent driver, many gurls drove my car aswell. lasted a **** tone of kms.. dont really want to go back to stock now

 

I don't think a clutch can make a one legger diff feel like an LSD. Once traction is breaking, you'd surely know.

 

I **** you not sir, i know what i felt!


i was meaning at take off...smh.

but you had to get all gay an pull some internet points and try to be the man huh

of course its not! i was more refurring to the on/off tendencies. and when it take's off from a sort of error say like a jump, it spin's both wheel's ha.. lol

but you had to go and believe everything on the internetz didnt you.. bravo!

 

I wasn't being a jerk but yes, I see how the quick engagement would give a chirp to both front wheels if the diff was in good shape.