Looking at making a 4 link and the lower arms will be 2x2 square tube with end link wended on. I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this but was just wondering before I go out and buy a 110 when I can scoop up the 220 for $300.00 more. Looking at the Hobart 140 to 190 welder. I owned a 140 before and loved it! Just not sure it's a good idea for something like this.

This will be for bagging trucks and such.

 

1/4 will be at the top end for the 110 capabilities

 

That's what I was thinking. A 4 link is not something I want breaking while drive on the hwy lol.

 

Cheat it and preheat it if you're worried about it?


Pretty sure you're overdoing it on that four link anyway. 2x2x.120 is a lot.

 

how about do it the correct way and bevel ALL corners 50% of thickness like your supposed to and then your welding 2 1/8" pcs together for a combined 1/4" which a 110 machine is. more than capable of doing.

 

If your are planning to do more chassis fab just buy the 220, you will not regret it. Even if you only plan to do a 4 link that will probably change to a full frame in a year or 2, trust me
I have stepped down from a 220 miller to a 110 Lincoln when I started working out of my home garage and really miss the bigger welder even though I don't do heavy duty chassis fab anymore. In my experience machines work better when they are not maxed out, or nearly maxed.

 

Why not buy a Multi voltage machine? My miller 211 does 110 and 220 and I love it

 

U Groove would get it to do it fine. The Billet end piece will end up soaking up a lot of your heat though, prolly still want to warm it up a bit.

Also wort mentioning is cages are usually .120 wall as well and you can't bevel them, also the fillet part of the weld ends up being way too cold.

Get the 220 and an extension cord to mob your house dryer power.

 

This, i also have a miller 211 and it is just awesome to use. Very handy with being able to be both 110 and 220.

I knwo for the price i got mine at it was very very much worth it.

 

Thank you for all the great info guys! I will look into that Miller 211.

 

with making a nice deep bevel, setting a standard 110 mig on the highest heat setting, adjust the wire speed so that you can make nice large circles, going very slow. you will penetrate all the way through 1/4" no problem

 

It's not so much the 1/4 tube either, the end tabs are also 1/4 and you can bevel them. I just don't think a 110 would give me "safe" penetration. I am looking at the Miller 211. For the price, that seems to be the way to go.

http://thorbros.com/4-link-parts/4-l...-weld-bar-ends

 

I have the miller 211 and I've been real happy with it. Why are you wanting to use square tubing. On my lever setup I had built I used 1 3/4 but u could also use 1.5" I wouldn't use poly bushings with the constant up down pelt the 4 link they will squeak I use delrin which make a big difference

 

The square tubing is for the air bag mount. Building it for a mini.

I'm also looking at the Millermatic 140, welds up to 3/16 and it's a 110. I'm sure I'm still better off spending the extra $200.00 and getting the 211.

 

This is my 3 link cantilever setup that is goin on a bagged c10 personally is use round tubing rather than square

 

Sorry, I am using round on the top 2 just Sq for the bottom, like you did.
That looks great by the way!