alright so I know what the code (17) is I just don't want to start replacing parts that don't need to be changed. is there any way of testing these parts:

Plug/Connection - can this be ohmed out or checked for voltage?
Sensor - dead in the water with testing on this one
Cable - it spins and my MPH works on my cluster so I'm assuming its GTG
Gauge Cluster - seems to work fine but I read there is a sensor in the cluster itself also that can throw a code.

I got a 88' Civic Hatch with a B16A swap converted OBD to OBD1.

I'm also having trouble going over 5k RPM which im assuming has to do with the VSS Code 17 but im not sure. Vtec doesn't engage but I'm 99.9% sure that from the Code.

 

The mechanical "VSS" for a cable driven speedo is actually called a speed pulser.
It is located on the back of the speedometer and send the speed pulses to the ECU through a wire.
If you weren't throwing a code when the car was still OBD0 then your cluster/pulser is fine.

Since you have a swap, I would inspect the ECU plugs before anything.
On the stock OBD0 plug, the wire that connects the pulser to the ECU yellow in color and goes to the OBD0 ECU pin B16.
This B16 wire should then go to the OBD1 ECU pin B10 (stock OBD1 coloring is orange or yellow/blue).

If you inherited this problem from the previous owner, then it could be that the pulser is bad.
Replacing the cluster is the easiest way to handle that problem -OR- convert to a electronic tranny mounted VSS and cluster.

 

There are 3 screws on the back of the cluster directly behind the speedometer.
Make sure all screws are there and tight.

 

this started recently so I doubt something just came loose with the ecu but I'll check anyways.

 

and what does these screws do?

 

One of them is the actual VSS connection between the cluster and the ECU.
If the right screw is missing, you have no VSS signal going to the ECU.

If my memory serves me right, one of them has the leters "SP" printed right next to it.

 

i also get a code 17 after driving for a short while

 

i've heard of an ecu throwing an intermittent code 17 before . but were gonna need to know more info to help ya mang

 

Issue Remains

BUMP

 

And you checked the back of the cluster as well as the wiring?

All that's left is a new ECU.

 

could you be misreading the codes? maybe you have a code 1 (O2 sensor) and a code 7 (TPS)?

 

REALLY?! you wouldn't check the sensor or cable before jumping right to replacing the ECU??

Im looking for actual tests to run instead of educated guessing. I need a wiring diagram for the sensor and the speedo so I can check for voltage or ohm it out.

 

that's a pretty big mistake if it is

one long seven short bleeps
two long 1 short bleeps

 

is there a site to download a wiring schematic for a 88 hatch? I wound one online but it displays in GIF. and im not able to save it as a jpg. and running in and out the house looking at my computer is making it a pain in the dick

 

Bump

 

What schematic are you looking for?
The whole car or maybe something less complicated like just a particular system?

 

well a full car schematic would cover the VSS im pretty good with wiring so a full schematic wont scare me. so full car would be best. then I can actually test the sensor. and if I needed it for future projects. I could get the Chilton's but I really don't want to buy 2 books one for the chassis and one for the engine.

 

I ended up just buying the Chilton book for the EF.

 

No, I wouldn't check the cable because the speedo works.
It's proof that it works so there is nothing to check there.

I've suggested that you check the wire from the pulser to the ECU and I've suggested checking your cluster.
I'm assuming you have done this so there is now nothing left to check.

 

the VSS itself is what's left. I'm running a B16A so there is more to it then just a cable and pulser sometimes you gotta pop the hood. It's not the ECU.

 

Well, that's not right.
B16A, D16, D15, ... all the same system.
The only time it would be different is if you swapped out clusters and removed the mechanical cable drive and replaced with a electronic VSS.
Up until this point I understand that you do not have a VSS and in fact you still have the stock cluster mounted pulser.

There is a
1) gear assembly in the transmission
2) cable drive
3) speedo/pulser
4) pulser + electrical connections to cluster
5) wire from pulser to ECU
6) ECU

If your speedo turns properly (not bouncing or intermittent) then everything mechanical from the trans to the speedo works. There is absolutely no reason you would need to pop your hood.
You have been directed to troubleshoot the electrical portion - connections on the the back of the cluster as well as the wire from the pulser to the ECU.
This happened about 10+ posts ago.

So you tell me... what's left to do here?

 

Are you using a cable speedo with an OBD1 ECU? Are they compatible?

 

that was my question was how to check the gear drive. but if your saying the cluster works im GTG then ok.

I didn't mean to come off like an *** my personality is just naturally aggressive. my apologies.

I didn't do the swap I inherited this from my brother. and the ECU is from a tuner shop (horrible one at that). This helps me greatly I will try her out again.

 

The diagram is for an OBD0 ECU. You need the OBD1 VSS pinout to know what ECU connector pins to make voltage measurements:

http://www.phearable.net/tech/

 

im not around the car right now but my brother is saying its a OBDll. all the stickers and markings are torn off the ECU I'll have to compare plugs to OBDl when I get home to see what he's actually got.