Ok, I've been researching and plan on going LSV. winter is coming and I live in Chicago so I wont be driving the hatch anymore so I figured it's a great time to build something. I've read the reliable lsv thread that's on here but it doesn't really answer all my questions and most of the other post are for people who want to track their car. I want a reliable DD with a power goal of 200 hp maybe a lil more nothing crazy.

what I have so far is a 2001 stock gsr head. and an ls block b1 both of which I came across for good prices. my first question is what pistons/rods can I run with this set up so far. I had my mind set on pr3's but after a little reading I've come across that it goes both ways. some say it works others complain about bending valves and knocking. to keep in mind I don't plan on reving past 85k. so any help would be appreciated since this is my first build and plan to do a build thread during this whole process with pictures and the whole 9 yards so feedback/advice and personal experiences would be greatly appreciated thanks !

 

You can put almost whatever pistons in you want. What compression you looking to be at? I suggest using a max 11.1 compression for dd.

And don't rev to 8500 unless your using aftermarket rods. That ls block isn't built to go that high. Recommend balancing the rotating assembly if you want to rev high and have it last

 

85k, eh? You want to rev to 10 times what the factory redline is?

You can use most any VTEC piston you want. Non-vtec pistons won't be very friendly to your valves.

 

how does p30 pistons sound w/ some golden eagle rods ? and yeah, I plan on sending the block and head to a machine shop to be inspected and cleaned I want to do things right the first time around ya know ??? and as for valves the ones on the head are burned so Im going to get new ones, any comments on going oem or choosing supertech valves I believe their called ?

 

cant use oem pistons on eagle rods just like that different pin style it is possible but not worth the money and trying to find someone experienced good luck

 

Im kind of in the same boat as you. Im using ycp type r pistons.. as for rods, stock should be fine since your not going for crazy horsepower. Stock rods are good up to 300 hp roughly.

ill follow your build as its also my 1st build.

 

I would also second the stock rods. Just use ARP rod bolts.

 

dont forget to have ur rods big end resized or honed after arp stud install

 

pr3's dd stock rods and bolts here. 9.5k revs no problem 6k miles

 

I was on the fence about what piston choice to go with too, until I found out that oem b16 pistons are only $55.00 a piece from Honda, so I jumped on that.

 

so would b16 pistons with stock ls rods be ok ? and im a little in the dark about resizing the bottom end of the rod so if you could go a little more into detail that would be great and yes i do plan on using arp head studs

 

did they come with piston rings too ?

 

Wouldnt hurt to get them shotpeened either. So you got a stronger rod. with arp rod bolts, you are good to go!

 

New pins but no rings. Rings were $25.00 per set need 4 sets

 

you can buy some type r reps for 90 bucks with rings. get arp rod bolts, your stock rods shopeened and as for the head get some skunk2 pro1's on supertech valvetrain. Preferably supertech part # SPR-H100DR. this part number comes with dual springs and retainers for 293$ annnd have better spring ratings then the skunk2 pro series springs. Saves you a whole lot of money.

 

To make ~200+ on a 1.8 with mild cr (11.1) and pro1s you are going to need a really good intake/header/exhaust system as well.

Suggest PLM header, 2.5" mandrel exhaust (not crush bent), and a decent IM/TB

 

yea i know im going to need new valves because the current ones on the gsr head are burned and since ill be taking my time its only right if i replace them. and so does b16 pistons with ls rods shotpeened sound ok to everybody and yea i plan on getting an whole new exhaust and some decent headers, but as for the intake n tb i planned on keeping them oem

 

I personally don't think you will make your goal with oem IM/TB the flow just isn't there. And if you have the snail gsr mani it's really restrictive.

 

Gotta love these LS/Vtec's
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ht=slowsleeper

 

nice bro !

 

An ITR TB would compliment your build well. Especially with some maxbore treatment. Werid...I'm selling one PM me if you're interested

 

So many ways to make 200whp now and days its fairly easy.

 

Amen to that!

 

Hatchy hatch first question, what fuel and tuning method are you planning on using? Reason i ask is cause doing the math is the first step, if your running a virgin block @8.330 deck height and a virgen head with 41.6 cc chambers with 5.394 rod length, .028 gasket, 3.504 stroke and 3.189 bore your looking at 12.53:1 comp ration on a pr3 piston with a 1.180 pin height and a 6.01 dome cc.

 

My guess...Crome pro on premium pump. Or do you have a math problem for the fuel too?