A little advice on build please
Hi guys,
I have a 91 CRX VT and a B18C4 with a C6 head all completely stock,the engine is out of the car and ready to be worked.
I would like to run higher comp to accommodate a set of Kinsler ITBS and Rywires coil pack and standalone bundle.
What would you recommend I do to my head and block to get a decent power figure and not destroy my bank balance?
I have a 91 CRX VT and a B18C4 with a C6 head all completely stock,the engine is out of the car and ready to be worked.
I would like to run higher comp to accommodate a set of Kinsler ITBS and Rywires coil pack and standalone bundle.
What would you recommend I do to my head and block to get a decent power figure and not destroy my bank balance?
Getting views but not advice here,my car isn't just a daily please check out Banzai magazine cover for oct,nov 2013 or look up Project 6 on fb.
I could really use some experienced guidance.
I could really use some experienced guidance.
What is your budget and your goals? To instal a set of ITBs isn't really a goal. In reality you could throw ITBs on your engine as it sits now.
Suggestions, port and polish the head, good multi angle valve job, set of higher lift cams and complete valve train to compliment the higher lift cam lobe profiles. Maybe even a set of larger diameter valves. As far as the block goes, throw in some 12:1 compression pistons some light weight rods and all new bearings. You might want to go oversize or even sleeve the block.
There are plenty B series All motor builds around that you can compare.
Kind of OT, So you have your car published on the cover of a mag and you are coming to a website for tips.......
Suggestions, port and polish the head, good multi angle valve job, set of higher lift cams and complete valve train to compliment the higher lift cam lobe profiles. Maybe even a set of larger diameter valves. As far as the block goes, throw in some 12:1 compression pistons some light weight rods and all new bearings. You might want to go oversize or even sleeve the block.
There are plenty B series All motor builds around that you can compare.
Kind of OT, So you have your car published on the cover of a mag and you are coming to a website for tips.......
kinsler - $2000+
Rywire coil retrofit - $800
Engine management for retrofit - $1000+
thats only scratching the surface to be able to "use" this stuff.
Rywire coil retrofit - $800
Engine management for retrofit - $1000+
thats only scratching the surface to be able to "use" this stuff.
PCT Pistons
ARP Rodbolts
Supertech VT
Cam Choice is yours but i'd run something along the lines of Low lift/Big Duration it's much less of a pain in the **** to install and run.
that's as cheap as it goes since you got a C6 head.
ARP Rodbolts
Supertech VT
Cam Choice is yours but i'd run something along the lines of Low lift/Big Duration it's much less of a pain in the **** to install and run.
that's as cheap as it goes since you got a C6 head.
Sounds good looking a budget of £7000 had a .2mm overbore Crower stage 3 cams and valve train in mind with p&p,wiseco pistons and hell knows what rods.as well as all new bearings oil pump etc.what am I missing?
Trending Topics
£7k should cover it.... Carrillo ProA rods would be my suggestion.
Don't forget to put aside some money for tuning. What are you planning to run for an EMS? Do you have a tuner lined up already?
Going to speak to romaine at eurospec,prob just run the arm standalone that is supplied with the rywire p&c,this is all relatively new to me that's why I'm here asking questions,I need a good engine builder now.more research needed.
I assumed that the amount was pretty low after seeing the cost of mid to high end boost projects.am I going too far?
Not that it matters a huge amount but what is this build likely to produce in figures?
Not that it matters a huge amount but what is this build likely to produce in figures?
Hmmm. I looked up the magazine and it says you have a "Gnarly B20"..but you say B18?
In a car like that, you don't need to break into aluminum rods and ITB's to have a fast reliable car. Hell a properly built budget B20 will be more than enough to get you around quickly. Before dropping the kinda money on a B18 you were talking about I'd do a K-swap and stomp a B18 all around. So many options...help us help you
http://www.banzaimagazine.com/
In a car like that, you don't need to break into aluminum rods and ITB's to have a fast reliable car. Hell a properly built budget B20 will be more than enough to get you around quickly. Before dropping the kinda money on a B18 you were talking about I'd do a K-swap and stomp a B18 all around. So many options...help us help you
http://www.banzaimagazine.com/
I didn't say the budget was low but you recommend connecting rods that are an extra 500$ that he wont require. Unless somewhere he said hes Turbo&Nosing the **** out of this motor.
Are you going for some sort of unique look? Or power? If you're going power I would just pick up a build motor and sleeve/build it for turbo or NA.. For 11K here You have 600WHP easily...
Hmmm. I looked up the magazine and it says you have a "Gnarly B20"..but you say B18?
In a car like that, you don't need to break into aluminum rods and ITB's to have a fast reliable car. Hell a properly built budget B20 will be more than enough to get you around quickly. Before dropping the kinda money on a B18 you were talking about I'd do a K-swap and stomp a B18 all around. So many options...help us help you
http://www.banzaimagazine.com/
In a car like that, you don't need to break into aluminum rods and ITB's to have a fast reliable car. Hell a properly built budget B20 will be more than enough to get you around quickly. Before dropping the kinda money on a B18 you were talking about I'd do a K-swap and stomp a B18 all around. So many options...help us help you
http://www.banzaimagazine.com/
Good suggestion.... K Swap are newer and hold more power out the box. They make closer TQ/HP ratings and hold around 400HP turbo on stock internals... My buddy put 5800 into his k and now running 665WHP & 511TQ on a huge turbo witch I find amazing for what he did.. I will be running a sleeved and built H22 with more money into it and wont even reach that power level..
Why are Carrillo rods only for turbo or nos? IMO They are perfect for a high revving N/A engine with good piece of mind. If you can get a comparable N/A rod for $200. Than I'll admit that he should go for those $200 light weight rods.
I got my ProA rods for $700 shipped and there were no $200 rods that came in @ the same weight or strength. 456g w/bearings and rod bolts installed.
I got my ProA rods for $700 shipped and there were no $200 rods that came in @ the same weight or strength. 456g w/bearings and rod bolts installed.
one thing you really have to watch out for with itbs is making sure you have some one that can tune good. if not youll have a big problem with temp changes. a friend of mine had really good luck with aem infinity and made good power out of it with basically the same setup you have.
Yeah the car currently runs a pretty average b20b looking for an old skool look and feel after I drive my mates ae86 on itbs I really wanted to give it a shot,big power is not what I'm chasing here,I also only drove 1750 miles last year all to shows and meets,I'd like to see a little track action in the future but not looking for a massively powered boost demon just a very clean very well tuned high revving all motor build ,I've heard bad stuff about a few ITB makes going outta tune and generally just being **** poor in build quality so I figured go for top end and work my way down through the build to make it clean,we'll tuned and loud as possible.just for something different.hondas here are all very k orientated as well as common boost setups.i understand why but I never wanted to follow the beaten track that's why I'm here asking daft questions
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
josh green
Tech / Misc
11
Oct 8, 2008 07:21 PM
hitvtecgetloud09
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
2
Mar 5, 2005 05:04 PM



