I don't want to write a novel, but I will try to provide as much background information as possible.
I did some searching as well but I did not turn up anything specific to my problem.


1988 Crx Si
Obd1 B16A2
Stock, uncut body harness.
Stock engine harness, only mods are soldered on obd1 injectors and removed injector resistor.
No name distributor and ecu jumpers, no CEL jumper on the ecu jumper.


Car ran and drove perfectly, then one day during the summer I parked the car in the driveway and came back to it unable to start when turning the engine over.
I noticed that I did not hear the main relay clicking, and was not getting power to the plug on the fuel pump connector.
Replaced the main relay; problem solved.

About a month ago I parked my car to store it, running and driving still.
Now when I try to start it, it is doing the same thing.
No main relay click, no power to the fuel pump.
The CEL is on constantly.
Replaced the main relay again, but it made no difference.

Questions:
What else could prevent power from getting to the fuel pump?
How do I check the CEL codes with my OBD1 setup?
What does the constant CEL on the dash when the key is on mean?


Help needed, please and thank you!!

 

Alright, I did a write up on the OBD0 to OBD1 conversion. On your conversion harness there SHOULD be a wire that is dedicated to the check engine light. Let me dig it out...

D4. On your OBD1 ECU, the pin D4. You need a wire from D4. I suggest you hook it to a switch. On the other side, hook up a ground. The solid cel on your dash means you have to flip this switch. When you flip this switch, it grounds out D4 and your CEL will flash. It will tell you codes based on the blinks. If you flip the switch and the CEL stays solid, it is a bad ECU. But it will more than likely flash like the LED on a OBD0 ECU.

Here's my write up, read it towards the end and it should help to say the least.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/how-obd0-obd1-3175858/

 

Ah ok, I will install a switch to ground out that pin when I'm off work And see what code I am getting. Nice write-up by the way Freeman.

 

It's an OK write up. Nothing fancy, just information being put out there. It's not like I was the first person to do it.

 

is this problem fixed? if not i have dealt with two issues that may help you.
1. check your grounds, specifically the ones near your thermostat housing, these are the grounds for your computer and your main relay. I was troubleshooting a crx once that would crank but not start and the main relay would click intermittently, turned out this ground was loose.
2. try swapping your ecu with a friends known good ecu, last time i had a fuel pump issue turned out to be the fuel pump driver inside the ecu, the car would prime everything was good it would start for a second and die.
hope this helps good luck

 

If you install the switch like I said, and you flip it and it's still solid, this is what you should look at next.

 

Turns out my ECU was the problem!

When I looked at my Ecu jumper I discovered that D4 already had a yellow jumper wire attached to it for CEL code reading. Grounded it, still solid CEL. Checked the thermostat ground and cleaned the connection a little, still no go.
Then swapped for a friends virgin p28, main relay clicked and primed the fuel, and started the car like I had just shut the car off an hour ago.


Thank you all for pointing me in the right direction!