So I'm looking to build a "GLSR" right around Dec/Jan which is pretty soon so I'm planning now. I call it a "GLSR" because I'm gonna be using a LS Crank & Rods in a GSR Block due to the Crank Girdle, Oil Squirters & Slightly Taller Deck Height to keep Compression within my means.

Goals: Essentially to just break 200whp (Surpassing is perfectly fine with me) while providing the broadest power band possible. Also to extract as much power while still being in a reasonable budget. Reasonable for me I'm looking at around 3k total for the entire Engine Setup.

Set-up that I'm looking at it:

3.5" Velocity Stack w/ Filter
ITR 3" Intake Arm
Type-R TB Bored to 65mm
Un-Modded Performer X (I believe it has a 65mm TB Bore Un-Modded)

BuddyClub Spec IV or S2S2 Cams (I'm leaning towards the Spec IV's because I believe they have slightly bigger Primaries)
- Any other suggestions are welcomed
iL4 Spring & Retainer Combo (Said to be comparable to Type-R Outters & Port Flow Inners, maybe a tad bit stiffer)
Stock Head just Gasket Matched

OEM GSR Headgasket (From what I read the Stock HG Bore is a 81.75mm)
- 81.75x.026"
P73-A0 Pistons in 81.75mm (Can step to a 82mm Piston & HG if it can be done safely on Stock Sleeves, read too many Yes No answers on this matter to make my own decision as of yet)
LS Rods w/ ARP Bolts
LS 89mm Crank
^ That Combo with the Head & Block Shaved a Total of .006" gave me 11.6:1 Compression while also leaving me .020" of Deck Clearance according to Zeal's calc.
Now I have read that the Spoon/Mugen/BuddyClub 2-Layer HG are OEM Gaskets with the Center layer removed. If it still retains the 81.75mm Bore that I've read about with OEM Gaskets that would put me @ 11.81:1 which is more desirable for stage 2 cams I have read.

And for Exhaust I'm looking @ a PLM Toda Rep and a Full 2.5" Exhaust.
Possibly stick with the 98 Spec 4-1 that I have if it's able to flow the amount the motor is going to be pushing but I'm assuming not.





Any Advice/Opinions/Insight/Personal exp. you can share will be greatly appreciated

 

Where are you getting 81.75 pistons? I can only find them in 81.5 and 82. Why not PR3 pistons

 

The Primaries on the Buddy Club IVs are nice, but they don't give the better low end torque that you're looking for. They really only shine with 2.0 Litre and above for the midrange.

I built my "GLSR" about 4 years ago for my wife's Civic SI, and is still running. We originally used the Buddy Club IVs and went back to the Toda Spec Bs, which had both the larger primaries and midrange for the 1.8 litre. I'd also consider the Skunk2 Pro1 or DDTECH that could take advantage of a similar aspect. Our Civic SI is at about 12.5:1, but I strongly recommend using an oil squirter block kit, unless you know specifically what angle to bend them to fit for the increased piston skirt as it travels lower down the cylinder than the GS-R crank. The car was 201whp on 93 octane..

Looks like an interesting build. good luck!

 

 

I'm looking at 1868-1880cc (1.9l) with either the 81.75mm or 82mm

I forgot to mention that I was looking at OTS parts/cams due to the cheaper price. I have no doubt that DD could make me a perfect set of cams but I don't quite think it'll fit within my budget.
I also failed to mention I wanted a Stock like idle. A little bit of lope is OK but I'd like it as smooth as possible as this will still be a daily 3-4days out of the week. I can sacrifice the extra power for a better idle.
I know I can't have the perfect everything so I'm willing to make some sacrifices.

We have 92 Oct here but I call it 91 just to be safe. I'm under the impression that a 12:1 CR with a stage 2 cam (49-52* Intake Close ABDC) is about max provided 91 Oct?

I have already looked and clearanced the squirters with the 81mm Pistons and LS Rods/Crank. Hopefully I won't have to bend them too much more with the 81.75mm pistons.

 

NPR
And I don't want PR3's because it'll put my comp higher than I need/want.
Also I've read that P73's offer the best flame travel off all the OEM designs.

 

A shelf type profile is very reasonable price. Compared to most of the stuff u find on the shelf. What is ur budget for say a vt and cams?

 

 

Remove the squirters. The increase in oil pressure far outweighs the oil squirting the bottom on the piston "cooling" it. I took a motor apart last weekend. GSR block w/ LS crank, squirters installed, and the tips of them were floating around the oil pan.
But you seem to have this down, no reputable builders/enthusists have tried to help and just been slapped in the face because you asked a question you didnt want the REAL answer to.

 

I could have swore the LS blocks had a taller height than the gsr's?

 

^^^other way around

 

Its splitting hairs but the Gsr deck is 212.39 and the LS/B20 is 211.84.

Thats why I ran a LS crank in a GSR block with my last turbo setup, lowered CR just a bit more.

 

"GLSR"....makes sense..... i like that .... i'm gonna start using it now.

 

Well with either Cams & the VT I chose I'm looking at $800-900 Total.
PM if need be is fine.

Ive seen BC Spec IV's Idle just fine.
Unless my definition of Lope and Smooth are much different than most?

I'll see what DD has to offer in his next reply.

"Sleeper" is kind of a goal yes, but not a main concern.
Like I mentioned a slight lope is fine. I just don't want the motor to be hunting for a idle or lope like I've got a set of killer cams.
Like I mentioned I've seen BC Spec IV's idle and they idle just fine for my liking. Maybe your thinking I'm looking for OEM Idle or some Silky smooth luxury idle, I'm not. I just don't want it to lope like it's gonna die is all.
The Pro 1's have a more definite lope compared to the Spec IV's. I've heard/seen some Spec IV's idle very well.

Not to pull the YT Video card bt I have none I've taken myself.
But here's a link to a ITR w/ BC Spec IV's:
I mentioned the Size of the Piston in regards to the Squirters because now the Skirt comes closer to the "Feed" end of the squirter, so I'm not too sure if I'll need to bend it more if you understand what I'm saying.


I do believe that it also helps Oil the Wrist pin correct?

Makes sense to me. It's a LS inside of a GSR. GLSR.

 

The wrist pin will get sufficient amounts of oil from any aftermarket piston/wrist pin on the market.

 

I'm just using NPR P73-A0 Pistons and LS Rods w/ ARP Bolts.
Atleast that's the plan.

 

You will be fine. MANY MANY people run LSV's and B20V's with no oil squirters and a OEM cast style piston never have an issue. I have personally run the same setup you are building, (GSR block w/ LS crank/rods and pistons) on a turbo build with no problems. I'm not trying to be a dick or show you up, just trying to save you a possible headache down the road. I wish I had pics of the broken squirters from the block I took apart last weekend. The guy got lucky the oil pump didnt suck them up, he ended up eating some valves from not running arp bolts, over-revving and breaking the LS bolts.

 

I don't feel like looking, anyone know the specs of the Buddy club's we're talking about in this thread?

 

Buddy Club Spec 4

Intake opening (BTDC): 37°
Intake closing (ABDC): 49°
Duration: 269°
Lift: 12.3MM
Lobe Center: 96°

Exhaust opening (BBDC): 61°
Exhaust closing (ATDC): 21°
Duration: 274°
Lift: 11.8MM
Lobe Center: 110°

 

Lope is commonly misunderstood to be "idle hunting" That's not the case.

is idle hunting.

This is through a stock type muffler, but you get the point.

I'm not saying i'm the end all be all, But I think for your setup, there are better options that are a bit more proven.. Honestly with all the buddy club results, floating around I've never been THAT impressed really with any of the results. The BC5's caught my attention but that was because my buddy Marshall did most of the testing with that's, and that's what the public had to go with..

I searched for a bit, here's a actual dyno of BC3 vs BC4
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/buddy-club-spec-iii-cams-spec-iv-2101090/
&
TBone's test
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/buddyclub-stage-4-vs-skunk-stage-3-dynos-inside-www-bristoldyno-com-1019995/

These cams will like around 12.0 CR to fully utilize the profile itself. The BC3's are too small, so you'd be looking for something in between the two. That's my opinion.

 

So. This is Merica.. we do stuff in .050

So here's the specs Via my math.

Intake Lift - .484
Exhaust lift - ..464

Based upon the Degree specs supplied above;
Intake duration 266
Exhaust duration 262
Intake center 96
Exhaust center 110
Lobe separation 103
Advance 7
Degrees overlap 58

These cams will sit between a Pro1 and pro2 since they are measured as the industry standard.

 

Yeah.. Here's my old card when I had them in my "GLSR". Glad I sold them. I had made the Peak power I wanted but lower end drivability was awful, but that was because I had a long header.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2657378&page=2

To the OP, even the Pro1s don't idle so lopey that it "dies" out... They aren't VTEC "Killers". you're going a bit on the overboard side with that comparison there.

Tell you what.. here's my wife's "GLSR" build, and you'll know what I mean when I say I've done what you're trying to do.. You want build advice, I'm trying to give it to you.. the only way to show you is that I've already done it, and not some YT video to "imagine" how it works.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/project-em1-shodan-goes-na-2458563/

my synopsis of using them. They can work, but need more compression and the right IM and header to make them work optimally
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2458563&page=5 -Post #110

 

The BC4 VTEC lobe is an exact replica of the S2 tuner 2 cams, as measured by Don Flores, and verified by Rocket. They have a little bit hotter primaries.

Like you said, it's basically a 'pro 1.5'. They're pretty decent cams if you don't want to deal with dialing in Pro 2s.

 

They may appear like that on paper, but I'll tell you now, that even dialed in, they don't behave like a Tuner 2 at all, in fact, they behave less than a Pro1. I'm glad I sold mine, as they just weren't the right combo for a 1.8 "GLSR"

For a 1.8 litre and header the OP has, he'd be best to consider something else.

 

That's simply not true, please don't spread misinformation. They literally have the exact same VTEC lobe as the tuner 2s, there's no way they perform differently. I have seen them make 250+ on 2 liters, they're a great cam.

I will say that there were 2 batches of BC IV cams floating around though. The ones with the B stamped on the end are suspect, and I believe replicas. Real BC IV cams have an A stamped on the end.

Perhaps you had a set with the Bs on the ends, it wouldn't be the first time I had heard of them underperforming.