Hi HT I got a 94 ej1 with a b16a second gen swap with a pr3 obd 1 ecu, so last friday night I left my headlight on, and when i come to start my car it didnt crank, so i didnt have anyone to jump start my car, so i disconnected my batter and connected another battery to crank and start my car and it did, then I connected my old battery back up so it would charge, and since then my idle stays 2k rpm and sometimes when im lucky 1.5k rpm after its warmed up and driven for a while, but point is it never use to do this before this whole battery thing, but i also noticed that when im cracking vtec in like 2nd gear and i let it bounce rev for a quick second i get check engine light code 7, soo idk if that has to do with idle, because light only comes on when bounce rev for a quick second, turn car off then on and no check engine light, i have no clue what to do

 

bump* Update so I notice that the check engine light comes on sometimes only when i full throttle, and code is 7 so its tps, so would that have to do with anything with me idle? and yes ik i need to resolve code 7 and I will I just would like an idea

 

Bump plz help

 

A bad TPS can cause several symptoms.

A few ones:

poor idle
hesitation
bogs and sputter

First replace the TPS and get rid of the CEL.

 

Alright i understand that but I dont have a check engine light only sometimes but once i turn the car off when I do get one and turn it back on it doesnt have it anymore, so thats why im confused, but ill order the new tps.

 

reset the ECU go for a spin in the same mode the CEL come on before.

If the ECU throw the CEL again voila!!

Sometimes when a sensor isn't totally bad resetting the ECU will give you an hour or weeks to show it again.

 

Alright ill do that then, so if the check engine light comes on again with full throttle and the code is 7 does that mean the sensors bad? and hows the proper way to reset the ecu? ive disconnected the negative post cable, but is there a right way to do it?

 

disconnect the back up fuse 7.5 under the hood fuse box for 3 minutes.

By the way I never to this. I always disconnect the ECU, Mine is laying in the passenger floor.

 

Alright ill do this tomorrow morning then and come back with results, and btw Thank You carlos8 for helping me with this

 

No problem.

thanks

 

Ok I did what u told me Carlos8 and it came back up and now I replaced me tps and still the lights is on and I calibrated it, don't know what to do now

 

After replace the TPS you still having #7 code?

Do you made a new read?

 

What do you mean? And yea after I replaced it and I checked wires and there all good using a DVOM, could it be something else like another sensor? Causing this check engine light?

 

I mean after replace the TPS, you reset the ECU and start the car and when the CEL come in do you read again what code it's throwing.

If you do and get code 7 again maybe you have a open wire between the ECU and TPS.

first, Check the three wires at the plug they should read:
1-Yellow= 5.0V with switch in on Position
2-Red= .45 close and 4.5 at WOT
3-Green=ground

If all is good in the TPS plug, then check the read of the RED wire signal at the ECU plug.

 

i checked all wires they all read within specs, carlos u dont think it could be another sensor causing this? or a bad throttle body?

 

some sensors work in conjunction and the fail of one can lead to a CEL.

But basically the sensors of the intake are IACV,TPS,MAP,IAT. and you only have code 7.

so you have new TPS.
Clean your IACV.
check your map voltages, clean it and the hole on the throttle.
Check for vacuum leaks.

Basically when a throttle body went bad it create vacuum leak by the linkage bushings wear or get stuck open or close.

 

Couldn't a TPS code be caused by a sticky throttle body, so maybe you need to clean it? They all need a good cleaning once in a while.

But the TPS, you can check with a multimeter.

 

Well I've notice that my throttle body where the cable connects to if I force it closed a little more my idle goes to normal, so since daze break brings up a good point could that be the cause of my check engine light on when I full throttle it? It could be stuck open a little more then normal at idle then something must happen at full throttle that the tps reads something and the ecu gets gives me code 7

 

bump