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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 11:53 PM
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Icon2 89 ef

I need someone else's opinion or help with my car. It starts up fine but after running for so long it shuts off. There is a brand new battery, alternator, fuel filter, spark plus, and spark plug wires. I thought it was the distributor but now I'm not so sure. I checked my codes and it read 4 diff ones i reset my ecu to make sure it was reading them right, then there was no blinking. But still once the engine warms up its shutting off, I have no clue what to do or where to start at this point.
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 02:44 AM
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Default Re: 89 ef

Originally Posted by brit_man
I need someone else's opinion or help with my car. It starts up fine but after running for so long it shuts off. There is a brand new battery, alternator, fuel filter, spark plus, and spark plug wires. I thought it was the distributor but now I'm not so sure. I checked my codes and it read 4 diff ones i reset my ecu to make sure it was reading them right, then there was no blinking. But still once the engine warms up its shutting off, I have no clue what to do or where to start at this point.
What were the codes? If you have 4 codes, that's probably your problem. I never understood why people ignore their check engine light.
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 09:08 AM
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Default Re: 89 ef

It was just a quick look but what i remember it was throwing 4,7,10 thats all i remember but the ecu stopped flashing me after i unhooked my battery.
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 09:19 AM
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Default Re: 89 ef

Originally Posted by brit_man
It was just a quick look but what i remember it was throwing 4,7,10 thats all i remember but the ecu stopped flashing me after i unhooked my battery.
4: Crank angle sensor - This is a big one. This could be a bad distributor or the wiring to the distributor is bad. If you have swapped or converted the car in any way, check the wiring. If it is factory stock, this is more than likely a bad distributor. The piece that needs to be replaced is often not worth replacing on it's own.

7: Throttle angle sensor: Also known as the TPS if I remember correctly. This should cause big problems. The ECU doesn't know how far your pedal is moving and it is probably not happy with that. Check the wires on the TPS. If it is a swapped motor, the wiring could have been done incorrectly. If it is factory stock, the TPS could have gone bad.

10: Intake air temperator sensor: This is probably a wiring or plug issue. It shouldn't affect performance. It should be an easy fix. It is located on the throttle body, white plug. Check it.

Originally Posted by FAQs
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 07:19 PM
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Default Re: 89 ef

well after it came back on it was only reading 15 to me
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Old Oct 24, 2013 | 02:53 AM
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Default Re: 89 ef

Originally Posted by brit_man
well after it came back on it was only reading 15 to me
15 is still ignition output signal. Sounds like the reason your car dies to me.

Originally Posted by RonJ@HT
1) Check the Blk/Yel wire attached to coil and igniter unit for battery voltage.

2) Check the Yel/Grn wire for an open or short.

3) Swap in a known good ECU.
Originally Posted by RonJ@HT
Again, as stated here^, all of your electrical tests are meaningless unless they are done when code 15 is thrown and the engine won't start.




I'm not sure what an OBD1 P70 ECU is, but unlike an OBD2 system where one ICM wire runs to one ECU pin, the OBD1 system has one ICM wire that branches to two ECU pins (A21 and A22). Is this possibly the problem?

Originally Posted by claymonthug
check your wires? thats a wired code to get on a swap. id think your distributor was bad but you say its all good. whats your wiring like? is the engine harness the si harness? or some other modded harness?
Originally Posted by claymonthug
well you say you rebuilt the distributor? did they have two options for a coil based on who made the dizzy? id try swapping over to a known working distributor just to get that out of the way
Originally Posted by spydercatt1
I love Code 15, it is a great code to have! Just Kidding. Code 15 refers to the Ignition Control Module which sits inside the distributor (Dizzy) on these cars. Symptoms include, stalling at a stop lights or signs, sluggish, feels like it wants to die, feels like no fuel is getting to the injectors, will die and then fire right back up or might take a minute or 2, try and give it gas and the engine cuts out. If this happens to you replace the ICM (ignitor), before you start throwing parts at the car, ECU's, Fuel Pump, Main Relay. The problem is intermitent, it took me 2 weeks with a 91 Honda Civic to figure it out. Learn from my pain.

For videos on auto repair check out Bundys Garage on YouTube.
Originally Posted by 88DXCRX
click on the image and let it load,then click on it again for full size:




Originally Posted by Hybridize
The code of death.

Get a new dizzy. Try a known good ecu first if you can though. Seen a 15 fixed one time by swapping ecu's. All other times it's been the dizzy.

GL
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