Turns out that my B20B in my Wagon Came with the B20Z P8r Head.

I was going to pick up a Short Block B18B1 Locally that is balanced, Crt Piston, all OEM bearings, and All ARP Hardware. (Plus ill be able to ref it!)

I want to use the P8R head with this block, along with my current bolt-on's. (after i have passed with a normal head)

Crower 401 Cams
AEM Gears
Blox Intake Mani
Goodspeed Fuel Rail
CTR Pully
Richtune ECU (Will be upgrading to OBD-1 soon)
Short Ram GSR Intake
4-2-1 Headers wrapped
2.5 Back Exhaust with no Cat (Will be adding one)

I want to have a legal block so I wont have any police Issues, but I doubt they will check my head code...

Alos i want to get the head worked a little bit, new valve job, maybe take a few more thousandths off the head...

Any idea if i will have clearance issues on the head?
Should I run a thicker head gasket?

 

Okay. You're using the B18 to pass emissions right? And you want to do a head swap after that with the B20Z P8R head? What year is the B18? I am pretty sure the B18 head will flow almost just as good as the B20Z head if it is one of the newer (92+?) heads.

Next, the Richtune ECU. What is that? Just dumping fuel onto the map so you can run the head? That sounds like a horrible idea. Either tune it right or don't do it at all. I would go OBD1 before I started changing the internals too much.

I don't know about the clearance of the head. I think it has to do with the block deck height more than the height of the head. I'm not real familiar with the exacts though. You can always notch the webbing on the inside of the hood to make clearance.

Should you run a thicker head gasket? No. Not at all. Do you know why people take a few thousandths off of the head? To increase the effective compression ratio of the head. By adding a thicker head gasket you will literally be undoing that. The only reason I have heard people using a thicker head gasket is forced induction and I still think that is sloppy.

I'm sure someone will have better advice. I don't have to worry about getting anything ref'd down here.

 

The P8r Head flows like a B16 Head, because of its larger intake valves than the Pr4 and P75 heads. he P84 has the same size intake valves as a GSR Head

Right now the car is runnig on a Pretuned pam from Richtune. Only temporary. It will be gone before reff because i want to reff as OBD-1

I know the P8-R Head has a different chamber size, so it will change the compression ration vs P75/pr4 heads. also the B1 block I will be using already has CTR pistons in it, so i dont now if the CR will be too high for street gas and to compensate should i run a thicker gasket?

Sorry if i wasnt clear

 

Okay. Flows a little bit better. Go for it. I think it will be a very slight difference. It's probably like the difference between the Y8 and Z6 heads. Slight, but still there.

I wouldn't run the car on that tune. It will probably be bad for the motor. It's just a guess.

I don't think you will exceed the CR for pump gas. You might want to stick to 93 octane though. The B18C Type R motor or whatever it is runs an 11:1 CR right? And that does fine on 93 Octane. 500 HP turbo cars run on 93 Octane. It's all in the tune. That's one of the reasons I wouldn't run ths setup on a basemap.

No worries. I'm trying to figure it out and give you another opinion. Mainly, I wouldn't run this car on basemap. It's a 'built' motor.

 

I was wrong, P8R head has larger cumbustion chamber, giving me lower compression, which would even out the higher compression numbers from the B16 Pistons right? Meaning that down the road i would beable the throw about 6-8 PSI on it if i wanted, once i ditch my B17 Trans

 

You're making a frankenstein motor here now haha. I have no idea anymore.

 

I like being differient...

This will be going in my Baja Build Civic Wagon.
100+MPH on the dirt

I just need an AWD 5 speed CRV tranny

 

Weird that you mention the baja. I've always liked the idea of making an AWD offroad civic. I don't think you can really raise it much out side of improved suspension and bigger wheels. So some cool fender flares would be a must. But! For my baja needs, I have my Baja Bug.

 

LOL That's exactly what im going to do.

I already have a tubulare Spare Tire carrier, tube front bullbar, and sneaky tube rock sliders, just in case I wanna go play! Havnt had the $$$ to even think about shocks wheels/CRV trans, etc.

For now it will be a mudflap draggin 2wd Tube bumpered Frankenstein motored swapped civic wagon .... yup

 

Learning more and more every day!
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/building-p8r-head-2673200/

 

AAAAAAND more

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/b20b-p8r-nonvtec-ported-head-flow-result-2709206/

 

So the B20Z head flows like a VTEC head? And you plan on doing a cam swap, so the lobes will be more aggressive. Basically this is a B20VTEC without the VTEC solenoid. haha. It's just always in VTEC. It's cool. And it's something to do.

 

Subbing bc I have a built 2L b18a with a jg ported p8r head...

 

What's up with that manifold in the picture you just posted?

Saw that 2L there and just had a thought for the OP.

There is a mini-me supercharger thread in the Forced Induction sub-forum. Check it out. I think you would like it for what you are doing. Very cheap compared to a lot of things and I think it would be worth it if you read into it enough.

LINK: https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/trying-find-supercharger-mini-me-not-turbo-3176120/

Try to ignore the part where I come off as an ***. Sometimes the things I say go poorly over the internet.

 

I would love to see more P8r Builds!
If i could go Boost with my already Higher compression CRT pistons, i would LOOOOVE to!!!

Basically a B20V without the Vtec, yes. but also this head allows for more Low end Tq, Which i want for the AWD

 

How does the CRV transmission mate to the B18? I don't know much of the CRV AWD trannys.

EDIT: Realized the B20B and B20Z came factory with the AWD CRV transmission. Doh.

But, the drive shafter and rear dif is the main issue now.

 

You are amazing for pointing this out!!!!

I really think i will do it!!!

 

So let me get this right:

CRV drive train with shortened axles to fit EF chassis
B18 with B20Z head to pass emissions
Used factory supercharger
obviously custom intercooler piping and exhaust

What's the HP goal for this thing?

 

Im gonna just throw in an LS for reff, then rereff it for B20, Keep the P8R head for legalities and then throw on Toyota, Clutch operated supercharger, and then lift the THING.

I dont really want more than 200-225. tuned for reliability. not for power

 

I have ZERO experience with that supercharger. It's a cool idea. Not sure how it will work or what performance you can get out of it.

The good thing about that supercharger is the clutch operation and the ability to use it with a Honda motor. A lot of superchargers rotate the other way. It's literally power at the flip of a switch.

 

Nowq what do you do about tuning?? It the ECU tuned to change the ###'s when the charger is on vs off?

 

From the link, boost friendly MAP sensor is detecting boost and letting a chipped ECU adjust fuel.

 

Not sure how i missed that... Im retarded.

Thanks!!!!

Looks like im doin this for sure.
Picking up my B18B1 Short block tonight.

Anybody interested in a B17 Trans? Grinds 3rd

 

You're not pitching that very well haha. LSD by chance?

 

Just picked up a 97 integra, got lucky and I also got the p8r-7 head mated to a stock b18b1 block.

My car is coinverted back to obd1, and tuned correctly. For over a month, I was beating gsrs left and right, b16 vtecs, only lost to 1 LS vtec so far.

I was like what in the world makes this car so fast, read that the b20 head was identical to the LS head unless you have the p8r-7 stamped.