I've searched and searched.no threads with my situation except a few that aren't answered.I just rebuilt my bottom end.hooked everything up tried to start it and no go.I have good compression,I'm getting fuel, and I'm getting spark threw the writers just not out of the plug.I tested the wires and they are working.any ideas guys? Please don't leave this thread unanswered. I appreciate any help you all can give me

 

How are you certain the spark doesn't happen at the plug? Sounds really odd since you say you have spark in the wires

 

Maybe the gap or wrong or the plugs are bad? Did you pull the plug out and you tried to see the spark visually while cranking? Did you change the distributor? Pretty sure the new ECU will need a different distributor.

 

I did a visual test while cranking it with brand new plugs. The engine ran not even a month ago.i got the mini me setup right,grounds are connected ,dizzy is good. I can get them to spark when I put it close to the valve cover. I did read about someone not getting spark and they used a d15b7 dizzy and got spark.will that dizzy fit with the z6 head?

 

Oh and they come pre gaped so that's not it...

 

no - it won't fit the Z6

do you have any codes showing at the ECU?

are you sure all of the grounds are connected (especially the one at the thermostat housing)?

 

I have check engine light but I think its from the 4wire o2. Ill have to look up how to read codes. But yes the grounds are hooked up right,I made it a point to label everything on the harness. I haven't wired in the map yet,could that be it?

 

The MAP sensor...? You're definitely getting a code for that if you don't have it hooked up. And yes that could be it.

Useless story here. I hooked my MAP up to the wrong vacuum port on my manifold, believe it went to the catch can thing. Anyways, something wasn't right about the vacuum sorce. My car sounded like a 7 second muscle car running open headers trying to idle at 700 RPM. It was awful.

Definitely hook up all the sensors if you don't have them hooked up. That should be number one on your list of things to do.

 

Yeah I had a e30 that had a vacuum leak and open headers,thing sounded like death Haha but all sensors except map is hooked up.map was separate from the engine harness for some reason.but Larry time it started the map wasn't hooked up. That's why I'm confused. Only thing about the car that's changed is the pistons

 

Oh and I'm not using a jumper harness,did the wiring myself.but it has ran before so I didn't mess up the wiring

 

Just tried to pull codes from ecu.sat there forever waiting for short blinks,never happened

 

I just want to state my confusion on how you can have spark coming out of a wire, but not out of the spark plug and still say the spark plugs aren't the problem. There is either something wrong with the story or the spark plug.

I don't know what a e30 is. The map is seperate from the engine harness. If it is on the fire wall, which it probably is, the only thing that runs to the engine is the vacuum line. But if you are using the Z6 intake it could be on the intake and you may have a wiring issue.



So you have this Mini-me running before, changed the pistons, and now you don't have spark?

How long did it run before? You aren't using a jumper harness, so you just soldered on different ECU connections and repinned it, right? Are you positive nothing has wiggled loose or come undone.

Waiting for short blinks. Hm. Is it a solid check engine light? Are there long blinks?

Solid CEL: Ground issue or defective ECU
Long Blink: 10 each
Short Blink: 1 each

There should be a long pause between each CEL code, much longer than the pause between blinks.

 

Okay so this setup was originally a d15/z6 in my ef hatch that I ran for like 4 months before throwing a rod. So I swapped everything onto a zc block I have in my ef sedan.everything is exactly the same as the other car.

I have a spark plug wire tester from a guy at work and I crank it,light flashes. I'm getting fuel,compression is 150psi,I've set the timing right. I've taken the plug out,plugged it into the wire,cranked and it didn't spark.



Cap and rotor looks good to me.


As far as codes go.I used the blue connector trick, It blinks at the same pace constantly

 

Yeah I checked my wiring and its all holding up. All I've done since it ran it replace pistons and rings. A e30 is a BMW,I was just relating lol

 

Oh and I have no vacuum leaks. Is there such thing as too weak of spark? If so what causes it?

Is there a way to test the coil without a DMM or a test light? Will putting a ground close to it like testing the wires work? Cause if the coil sparks then I'm in a very retarded situation... I appreciate the extra thought power and knowledge tho!

 

I am certain that my no start problem is spark tho,that's for sure.
I have a y8 distributor is it a possibility to swap that in?or maybe use the coil/ignore from it?

 

You grounded the plug, right?
You only said that you put a plug in and cranked... so just making sure you grounded the body of the plug.

Test the resistance of the wires.
If they are out of spec then it is possible that there is a really weak spark.

 

No I actually didn't ground it,ill go try that right now. A wire to the body and I ground should work right? I'm doing this myself now and have to crank the car myself so I need the plug in view

 

I use my phone camera for times like this.

 

The metal portion of the spark plug that screws into the cylinder head provides ground.
"Ground Electrode" in this picture. You really only need to set it on bare chassis ground somewhere. wire would work too so whatever works best for you.

 

I used the battery terminal and just put positive to ground on the starter.I got spark from all plugs! Thanks for catching my mistake Haha I ran an extra compression check just to make sure and all good there.still smell fuel.tried to start it again and still no start.tell tried getting codes from ecu. It dumbly spilled the beans. Code 9(9 long blinks) and 22 that maybe was 23,was a weird blink

 

Okay, so your getting spark from all the plugs now. Nine long blinks is code 90, which doesn't exist. Should be short blinks. And that would be cylinder #1 position. Which I think means your timing is off for TDC. Not really sure. CEL 22 is VTEC, 23 is a knock sensor. The Z6 shouldn't use a knock sensor. You shouldn't get a CEL 22 unless you are in gear and are trying to engage VTEC. The ECU doesn't check the VTEC until it tries to engage it. So there shouldn't be a VTEC code unless the car is driving now.

 

Well my vtec isn't hooked up ATM. Okay so I figured I have good compression that my timing is right? So I don't have a timing cover. I timed the head and block when it was torn down,and since then been eye balling it haha

 

That sounds like a bad idea. I think there should be a way to set timing better than eye balling it. The cam is at least set to TDC right?

 

Yeah,It has the timing mark for that.up is up,two horizontal lines with the head and the downward facing one is with the mark. Is there a easy way to find TDC on the bottom end?