I purchased my b16 swapped 94 civic a year or two ago and I'm starting to make progress on the build but need a bit of advice in which direction would be best.

When i first got it i was new and was under the assumption it was a sir2 b16 but it turned out to be a automatic 1st gen b16 slapped with a ls transmission.
Since then i have install the following:

RMF narrow B-series replica header 2.5in collector
Mandrel bent 2.5in piping with two 18in resonators and a vibrant stealth muffler
CTR cams with ITR valve springs, retainers, cam gears, and new LMA's
ebay 3in intake pipe with Vstack and aem filter
also have a hondata IM gasket waiting to go on

I figure I'm done tinkering with anything exhaust related and mostly looking for advice on port and polishing the head, intake manifold, and throttle body.
I bought a sir2 P30 intake manifold for cheap and wondering what TB i should throw on it or just keep my 58mm and have them ported?

Would it even be worth P&P the head? The biggest cams id run would either be BC3+ or SKS2. I'm not sure if the head has been milled before or just running a thinner head gasket. Also unsure if id ever do any work to the bottom end. I daily drive this but can get to work without it as well if i gotta send the head out or something.

Also don't plan on going turbo... I know ill hear that.

 

Get the P30 manifold cut open and ported use a ITR throttle body on it and get it tuned use a 3" SRI with a V stack and you will have a good little setup just asking for a gearing change which will make a bigger difference than playing with the engine.

 

and possibly sale/trade the rmf for a toda rep which seem to pick up throughout the entire range on 1.6-1.8 liters.

 

The stk throttle body is 60mm, not the 58mm found on 1st gen. Going itr will get you maybe 2hp using a 62mm.

You can can get a 65-68mm cheap these days, and port match the intake manifold, but you will only make about 4hp.

There are better ways to make hp, stage I cams are good example

 

Thst was my next thing to port the p30 intake manifold but just wasnt sure what TB to port match with it.

Was also thinking about the toda replica header caise of how low the 4-1 hangs. I have a skid plate on it but still probably banged up.

Ive read other post and some say to stay away from anything bigger than 62mm on a b16. Does more harm then good I guess?

I have CTR cams but probably will eventually go to skunk tuner 1's or bc3+. Anything that will be good on the ITR valve train since I got it new. What about valves? should inlook into flat faced valves or try getting some itr valves aswell?

Transmisson, clutch, and flywheel are probably last on my list. I do mostly highway driving so the ls tranny is a god send for now but eventually will have a gsr or b16 1st-4th and ls 5th type or transmisson with a 12-15 pound flywheel. Daily drive it so nothing too light.

 

A better combo, since you do alot of highway driving, Is:

B16 1-4 gears
Ls 5th gear
Ls 4.266 Final Drive ratio

It adds about 5 mph @ 3500 rpm in 5th, but barely changes the 1-4. This is the route im gonna go with my B16 (soon to be B20V ).

 

Ill definitely keep that in mind then. Saves me having to get a new final drive. Anyone have advice on port and polished head? Is it worth it for this kinda build?

 

I wouldn't worry about doing the head for this build. Or even the IM unless you're gonna do it yourself. I don't see the Toda being any better than the RMF on this motor, switch if you want better clearance I guess but don't expect gains. You'll have a fun little 1-6 man

 

Even 60mm throttlebody is enough in most cases. I tested 62mm vs. 60mm in my B16A2 (PCT-pistons, 0.5mm milled head w. Type-R intake valves, Crower CTR+ cams, 4-2-1 Toda-replica and ported P2T intakemanifold (practically same as P30) ) and it made only little difference in toprange, WOT of course. In common driveability there in not so big difference, but 60mm is slightly better. So, i don't bother.

If we look volume, stock PR3 flows more than enough for stockish 1595cc. Intake port is big. Because of velocity, only advice i can give is, do not touch if you don't know what you are doing . But basic overhaul is always recommend (guides, valveseats machining etc.) .

 

I tested that combo also, short and extended version (cai). Versus modified EK4's stock intake system*, there's only little difference in some spots. I think it's caused mostly by different pipelength. So, i focused only get intake air temps low enough.

*It won't restrict mildy build engine at all. It takes air from the outside, not in engine compartment. I removed resonatorbox inside the bumper and fabricate lower intakepipe using/ mix stock piece (which start under EK4's airbox) and "vstack" from DC2's stock resonatorbox.

 

I wasnt planning on doing and porting and polishing myself. I was gonna send the head, IM, and TB to get port matched and cleaned up with a valve job. Maybe slight mill or thin head gasket depending on whats already done to it that I dont know about.

I was thinking maybe fab up a little air box to hold my filter behind the headlight. I have air dams in the front bumper to direct outside air up to the engine bay. Something cheap and easy.

Its a fun little car as is but still wanna squeeze every last bit of power out of it with the cheaper parts then focus on the more expensive side like pistons, bigger cams and such. Im mostly focused on mid range-top end. Thats why im kinda thinking toda rep header and thats why I chose the p30 IM instead of itr or aftermarket. Read the thread about the "killer bee" IM which is just a ported p30 and made good gains throughout the powerband.

 

Any one have though on flat aced valves? I would like to get close to 11.1 CR without touchig he bottom just yet. I have plans to send the head to portflow to get the "buget head work." Head milled .010 and a two layer headgasket but even with flat faced valves doubt ill hit my mark.

Mainly just looking for opinions on if theyre work it or just get itr valves with the valve job.

 

I'd do a thin head gasket before I did valves. The cost per gain on the valves isn't worth it.

Good move on sending the head to Portflow by the way

 

Not both? I figured id get new valves cause id like to have a semi new head sice its he oldest b16. New ITR valves run about he same so I just figured if it bumo the CR a bit hen why not.

The work is pricey bur I figured id send it somewhere really good and be happy rather than heap out and have a ruined head.

 

If you decide to do valves, I think Tom @ Portflow sells them. Buy from him and he might give you a discount

 

Hi,

Excellent choice on Portflow. Tom is the best in the business and a thorough professional with top notch customer service.

Trust me this coming from a guy all the way from India. Had issues with a head and he promptly arranged to prepare another head and courier it to me all at his cost without even asking for the old head back.

Jignesh

 

Wow. Portflow seems A+++. Cant wait to get my headwork done. I see they have supertech SS black nitride coated valves but I think I might just go with ITR intake valves with a valve job. Not sure about exhaust valves though. Inconel valves seems to be for higher horsepower applications but ITR exhaust valves are pricey new! Looking for good reliability over performance. Thats why I didnt get titanium retainers. Heard that titanium valves wear out the seats.

 

Nothing wrong with Ti retainers if they are snap fit.

 

One more thing, I plan on getting a lot of new oem parts installed while i have the head off and if I was getting a 3 angle valve job would I need to buy new valve seats. I just wanna have a semi new internal head. Going with oem ITR valve guides, still undecided on supertech or ITR valve seals. Also cant choose between Ferrea valves or ITR valves. Portflow offers inconel exhaust valves but ive read its more for high horsepower builds.