Morosso 5.5 qt oil pan problems? Your experience.
Anyone on here had a problem running this oil pan? I've got one on my gsr turbo and i'm running the aftermarket pick up as well. I'm just wondering if any of my oil issues have been related to the pan.
Those pans can be tricky when it comes to oil return routing into the pan if using the moroso's oil bung placement. With topmounts exhaust manifolds it tends to get a bit easier for oil return line routing.
I read about your loss. I'm really sorry to see a hard working project have such a horrible demise. Do you suspect that you had an oil return line issue as well as other areas?
I read about your loss. I'm really sorry to see a hard working project have such a horrible demise. Do you suspect that you had an oil return line issue as well as other areas?
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The biggest issue people have is not knowing how much oil is in the pan because they didn't calibrate the dipstick but seeing as how you have the proper unit I doubt that could be the cause of your problems
Sometimes, not all the time, but occasionally one or more of the baffle trap doors will come off due to vibrations loosening their retaining screws, this would cause a huge starvation issue at the pump pickup. Also the springs break on the doors on occasion but it is very rare, you see things like this more with people who drag race religiously or do a lot of road course racing
Sometimes, not all the time, but occasionally one or more of the baffle trap doors will come off due to vibrations loosening their retaining screws, this would cause a huge starvation issue at the pump pickup. Also the springs break on the doors on occasion but it is very rare, you see things like this more with people who drag race religiously or do a lot of road course racing
Calibrate the dipstick ????? Are you serious bro??. It will hold more oil but still fill to the same level dude. 4qt stock to top line 5.5qt moroso pan to the top line it's that simple. Sometimes I wonder about you.
That being cleared up 5.5 kicked out sump drag pan not good for spirited street driving. At decent speed into a corner you can starve the pick up oil oil easily. You could've lost pressure and took out bearings and losing pressure all together.
That being cleared up 5.5 kicked out sump drag pan not good for spirited street driving. At decent speed into a corner you can starve the pick up oil oil easily. You could've lost pressure and took out bearings and losing pressure all together.
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I heard about issues with the earlier pans that the stock dipstick was off, so you'd have to fill it to a certain level (known volume of oil) and mark the dipstick for "true full" with the moroso pan... then they cam out with a longer dipstick that eliminated that problem
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No problems with mine for many years now, drag or circuit... The Moroso pick-up actually sits further down in the oil pan too, and I am using stock GSR dipstick. It takes about 6 quarts to get it to slightly above the highest dot on the dipstick.
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This was back in the day, like 04... when the pan was still relatively new on the market. There were tons of threads about the pan and the dipstick
Those pans can be tricky when it comes to oil return routing into the pan if using the moroso's oil bung placement. With topmounts exhaust manifolds it tends to get a bit easier for oil return line routing.
I read about your loss. I'm really sorry to see a hard working project have such a horrible demise. Do you suspect that you had an oil return line issue as well as other areas?
I read about your loss. I'm really sorry to see a hard working project have such a horrible demise. Do you suspect that you had an oil return line issue as well as other areas?
It doesn't matter when this was. The block and dipstick never change regardless of what pan is on the car full is the top mark on the dipstick period. Only way this may be different is with a dry sump setup
As for oiling issues. My first bottom end saw a good bit of drag/street abuse. After about 15k miles of kicking the **** out of it my 30R turbo went out. It somehow got so starved of oil the ball bearings came apart into my oil pan. Got a new CHRA and cleaned out the pan. Less than a 100 miles later it spun a bearing. Put a new crank in, repaired the Pauter rod that got hurt from the spun and put fresh rings on my 84mm CPs. I'm daily driving again with almost 1000 miles.
Thanks guys. I just switched to stock when my bottom end took a **** lol. What are the real benefits of this pan? I mean other then holding more oil?
Since you have it off can you post picture of it. I have been trying to look at the pictures online and cannot see all the trap doors and how they are placed. I understand how they work I just would like to see how the trap doors are set up.
In a drag car that revs high and makes power all the oil gets stuck in the head. If you have a small capacity you can and will starve the pump which will once again wipe out your motor.
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The old pans had an issue where 5.5qts was not "full" on the oem dipstick... I get that the relation between the dipstick and oil pan hasn't changed in terms of depth.
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Again...... Really?
It's a universal b series pan LS(B16) and GSR require different amounts of oil to achieve the same depth, due to the girdle/pickup. Don't "calibrate" dipstick to the pan the capacity is second to the proper level. The stick sets the proper oil level, not the pan.
It's a universal b series pan LS(B16) and GSR require different amounts of oil to achieve the same depth, due to the girdle/pickup. Don't "calibrate" dipstick to the pan the capacity is second to the proper level. The stick sets the proper oil level, not the pan.
Wouldn't an accusump offer the same protection in place of the larger sump and trap doors?
Hey all-
I'm having some trouble with my Turbo setup. Mainly the downpipe side oil seals blew, we're pretty sure it's because of the oil return...
Long story short, when the turbo was on there I had WAAAY to much oil in there. I talked with Moroso, (after the turbo started smoking like CRAZY) and they said I needed to put in 5 qt's, and recalibrate my dipstick (sounded crazy, but I did it) i did it with the plug for the oil return line out and at about 4 and 1/4 qts, it started leaking out, i saved it (cuz i wanted to know how much leaked out) and it's just over 3/4ths of a quart...
My question is, is anyone using a Moroso pan on a b-series turbo setup? My specifics are the 20901 pan, and a b16 engine.
Thanks for any help you may offer.
I'm having some trouble with my Turbo setup. Mainly the downpipe side oil seals blew, we're pretty sure it's because of the oil return...
Long story short, when the turbo was on there I had WAAAY to much oil in there. I talked with Moroso, (after the turbo started smoking like CRAZY) and they said I needed to put in 5 qt's, and recalibrate my dipstick (sounded crazy, but I did it) i did it with the plug for the oil return line out and at about 4 and 1/4 qts, it started leaking out, i saved it (cuz i wanted to know how much leaked out) and it's just over 3/4ths of a quart...
My question is, is anyone using a Moroso pan on a b-series turbo setup? My specifics are the 20901 pan, and a b16 engine.
Thanks for any help you may offer.
I think some of the non-kicked, stock style replacements started this.
I got the steel, stock type 4 qt capacity with stock pickup recommended by Moroso so I don't guess one was to expect different fill level..but it did change where it hit stick when filled with ~4 qts. And pours out of turbo drain bung if disconnected.

I have shitty stock mounts tho and my block leans a little forward.

^^^lol @ "blowing oil seals..." ..those damn "seals"
Again it doesn't matter what shape or orientation the pan has. The dip stick goes down to a set level in the block. No matter how you shape the pan or "kick it out" the reading for the dipstick will not change. The shape of the pan doesn't change how the oil sits at the top when filled to the stock mark on the dipstick.
If you have a square container that's the same height as a round container but one holds a gallon and one holds two gallons the container heights are still the same and filled to the top would be at the same level reguardless of capacity differece
Also it doesn't matter that moroso says it's a 5.5qt pan or joe blow makes a custom pan and says it holds a gallon. You NEVER fill a motor with oil quantity without checking level. My pan holds more than 4qts but I put in four run the engine shut it down and then check level and add as needed. That's the proper way instead of just dumping in said quantity of quarts and hoping it's full and not over full.
When my pan is full oil will come out of my turbo drain fitting when the engine Is running there is considerably less oil in the pan
If you have a square container that's the same height as a round container but one holds a gallon and one holds two gallons the container heights are still the same and filled to the top would be at the same level reguardless of capacity differece
Also it doesn't matter that moroso says it's a 5.5qt pan or joe blow makes a custom pan and says it holds a gallon. You NEVER fill a motor with oil quantity without checking level. My pan holds more than 4qts but I put in four run the engine shut it down and then check level and add as needed. That's the proper way instead of just dumping in said quantity of quarts and hoping it's full and not over full.
When my pan is full oil will come out of my turbo drain fitting when the engine Is running there is considerably less oil in the pan
^^ good point to remember
Well... I guess the full mark on the oem dipstick isn't the only goal/standard.
The stock marks are for a stock pickup and pan I would reason, since those are the only original parts related to oil delivery.
So if those change, the stock fill mark wouldn't be etched in stone. The objective would be the ability for the pickup to reach down and properly feed adequate amounts of oil under all conditions.
I think I kinda approached it from the point of view of what the engine needs to properly lube itself under operating conditions.
Like a human body..which coincidentally holds about the same volume of blood (little over a gallon) to work, cool etc., I wouldn't think it needed more forced in.
So approx. 4 qts. is sufficient. Yes, extra is nice, for all the known advantages, but the engine can do with the 4.? the manual says, and people have done it, with stock pans working ok for awhile.
Especially n/a. (A little extra for the turbo added to oil circuit is nice.)
So when i was using stock pickup, and a pan, the manufacturer of which said that stock pickup would be properly positioned, then stock oil quantity would be ok, even if the stick says it was a little low.
When people installed the pans and checked it, it was low..and annoying, so they would scribe the stick to mark where the recommended quantity was, that's all.
I only bought one cuz I pieced my engine together and the block came without a pan, and this one was already tapped nicely, or so I thought. Didn't line up so well with my setup.
Sorry.. this went way afield, since I dont even have the extra capacity pan...
Just wanted to say how the stick "calibrating" came to be.
Well... I guess the full mark on the oem dipstick isn't the only goal/standard.
The stock marks are for a stock pickup and pan I would reason, since those are the only original parts related to oil delivery.
So if those change, the stock fill mark wouldn't be etched in stone. The objective would be the ability for the pickup to reach down and properly feed adequate amounts of oil under all conditions.
I think I kinda approached it from the point of view of what the engine needs to properly lube itself under operating conditions.
Like a human body..which coincidentally holds about the same volume of blood (little over a gallon) to work, cool etc., I wouldn't think it needed more forced in.
So approx. 4 qts. is sufficient. Yes, extra is nice, for all the known advantages, but the engine can do with the 4.? the manual says, and people have done it, with stock pans working ok for awhile.
Especially n/a. (A little extra for the turbo added to oil circuit is nice.)
So when i was using stock pickup, and a pan, the manufacturer of which said that stock pickup would be properly positioned, then stock oil quantity would be ok, even if the stick says it was a little low.
When people installed the pans and checked it, it was low..and annoying, so they would scribe the stick to mark where the recommended quantity was, that's all.
I only bought one cuz I pieced my engine together and the block came without a pan, and this one was already tapped nicely, or so I thought. Didn't line up so well with my setup.
Sorry.. this went way afield, since I dont even have the extra capacity pan...

Just wanted to say how the stick "calibrating" came to be.
That being said, i have both 5.5qt moroso oil pans. One uses stock sump and has 5 trap doors (road race one) and the other has a rear sump and 2 trap doors and uses a moroso sump.
I always run 6 quarts in each, leaves it just a hair over the top line.
Last edited by gringotegra; Oct 24, 2013 at 07:03 PM.
Yeah, hes right. Ask me how i know lol
That being said, i have both 5.5qt moroso oil pans. One uses stock sump and has 5 trap doors (road race one) and the other has a rear sump and 2 trap doors and uses a moroso sump.
I always run 6 quarts in each, leaves it just a hair over the top line.
That being said, i have both 5.5qt moroso oil pans. One uses stock sump and has 5 trap doors (road race one) and the other has a rear sump and 2 trap doors and uses a moroso sump.
I always run 6 quarts in each, leaves it just a hair over the top line.







