Wanted to add some testing in this forum.
All thanks to TURBOGIXXER TUNING
Kenny knows his **** and does great work

Setup is
H23A stock Block
Skunk2 Pro1
Twin Tb+ halfway ported IM+ 2 iab plates
Logic Header +3" exhaust
e85

In the specs i sent for RLZ, i inputed a 13.5 comp 95mm build using skunk2 pro3. thats my future plans..

Run 020: Old dyno with Stock head
Run 040: New Dyno with RLZ head
Run 027: Rlz Head + 3IAB plates
Run 033: RLZ head + 3IAB plates + (increasing fuel pressure from 35 - 60psi)




We ran out of time and didnt have time to play with cam gears. theres def more left in her
Enjoy, i , including many others feel theres something restricting the head..
What do you think

compression?
Replica header?
cams?

Discuss

Here's dyno of open header vs 3" exhaust.
It was on 2 iab plates and 35psi fuel pressure
Run 040: Green 3" exhaust
Run 041: Red Open Header

 

Im getting the IM welded up and i'll be porting it all the way. then i'll head to the 1/4 for some practice , lord knows i need it lol

Best run so far is 11.9@112 2070lbs on old head
I need to focus on suspension now. Bushings are fucked, alignment out of whack as well.
and my driving is not that great, drag racing noob lol

 

I vote the pro1s, ive seen them do well on 90mm stroke but 95mm not so much..

 

junk2 cams

 

Worlds fastest "all motor street" h2b (with 95mm crank btw) seems to get those junk 2s working. Granted they're pro3s and not pro1s.

Were the cams degreed in with a wheel and dial set? I really don't think it's the cams. Could be a stock h23 vtec short block/pro 1 thing. I say there is another 10 whp on the table with the cams degreed in properly and then dialed in on the dyno. With that said, picking up 15-20whp with a ported head alone isn't bad...especially considering it's a stock short block as well.

 

Also, try Jason's intake manifold and intake piping setup, and drop the exhaust. I'm thinking the power will carry a little further and it'll make a little more overall. I'm not saying your manifold /tb combination isn't working, nah2bs intake may be a little dyno friendlier. Again, just my opinion.

 

Great Job, kennyboi

Thanks for sharing. The pro1's are a good cam for a mild to stock setup, I think this setup would need something bigger....much bigger.

 

AllMTRex, i posted dyno of open header vs 3"
I didnt degree cams
Next time i do plan on trying Jason Upper Plenum and play with cam gears
I do plan on checking p2v as well, already have v2v done

 

I'll agree. However, keep in mind this is a stock block h23a with less room to play with due to the pistons having shallower valve pockets when compared to an Jdm h22 piston.

After seeing the uploaded dyno graph, open header vs 3". I'd also try jaywest's rmf. Cody's header would have really shined on this engine.

 

Little bit of work and you'll be in the low 11's in no time

Good stuff homie

 

Little bit of work and you'll be in the low 11's in no time

Good stuff homie

 

After talking with you the other day, i would like to see what a bigger header would do on yours and mine.

 

DDTech, would u say smething like skunk2 pro3 would be better suited?
'cause honestly i havents see that great results with pro2 on H series
or will ur shelf camshaft be more suitable, or custom DDtech

 

oops..

 

Nicely done..

I just thought that the power band with the pro1 would be a bit higher than 7.9k especially with a good flowing head (Maybe it needs more compression?)

Try another manifold design, the 2 TB openings might be to big and is hurting your air flow velocity..

Get some more seat time and you should be in the low 11s in no time!

 

I need to hang out at STP on saturdays for Kennys tuning show!

Nice work!

 

The people that are using the Pro1's in a H23 really need to think hard about engine basic's when choosing a cam and your comment about the 95mm crank should make them think before mouthing off the cams are no good in there H23 setups.

 

i think skunk2 cams are great, especially the pro3.. they seem to work great for bigger H series builds (which there are not many of)
However i have not seen many results on pro2 and builds making around 260-280whp
Any suggestions Uncle Dave. Im open ears, im not that savyy with cams

 

i know a few here at PR that are making over 240whp on pro2 with there h22 stock block. i believe because the specs you gave rlz were for an aggressive build that why your not seeing high numbers with that head since your on a stock block. im sure that head easy goes for 280whp with the right mods on that block. (more compression, pistons, rods etc) the headwork rlz did is too aggressive for a stock block

 

When was ~250whp and 180tq not good enough for an:

Stock short block H23a...
Flattop piston...
race spec head... (That wasn't designed for your current setup)
and no cam degree/cam tuning on the dyno...
$300 header...

Seriously, that's a killer setup Zuptidi. Get that thing to the track and run low 11's already. Seat time ftw!

 

i didnt say it wasnt enough maybe he was expecting more, i dont know, sorry if you or i misunderstood

 

Its a credit to the OP that this setup is so strong once he gets to build the new bottomend and develop his setup even more I'm sure we will see some some very good numbers both on the dyno and at the track.These H23 setups love to breath with a 95mm crank so cam choice would be on the large side once you get compression and the cyl head flowing more I'm sure Brad@RLZ would have some input to what cam he would like to see go with your cyl head.

 

That post wasn't directed toward you. It was directed toward the thread. I'm assuming the thread was created because the setup didn't pick up much with the head swap. However, it is what it is. It made awesome power. You can only run so much cam on the stock h23a bottom end. I truly think the power it's making will not disappoint and will run great numbers. Now, run that beast!

Looking forward to the next build as well. Should run it's *** off.

 

Seeing all the conversation on the Pro1 and 95mm makes me want to get my car on a dyno and really get down and dirty testing stuff. All I have is track times and speeds, but those showed me ~13 whp difference just with the cam switch compared to stock jdm cams on my engine, and that was with a fully stock im/ tb setup and bashed to hell ebay header no less.

Maybe it is compression, as my engine has jdm H22a pistons on H23a1 rods, and a slightly decked but still oem port head.

New setup with a gutted out IM and 76 mm tb feels much better, but haven't made it to the track this year

 

Pro1's aren't as big as everyone thinks..

Something a tad bigger then the pro1's would really rock out on this type of setup, They are however, a great starting point.. i'm still studying as to why a lot of people run into a low/midrange loss with these cams vs others.. There's got to be a reason behind it.. Throwing ideas out.. anyone have any thoughts..?

Possibly due to cams not being Asymmetrical? Them being symmetrical makes them look bigger at a glance, but also it'll make them lazy running, pre vtec.