LSS: crashed car doing jdm front but i'm removing the engine to clean the bay out and a few other things. My question is, I can get a low KM short block b20 for 500 +/- and go B20V. My gsr has kinda low compression in the #2 cyl(190) for some reason all the others are at 220 I don't have the skill to start ripping the block apart and over bore my gsr so WWYD ?. fresh b20v or keep running the gsr. my main want to keep the gsr is eventually I will learn how to swap pistons etc. but i'd like a healthy engine for my rebuild car so to say.

thx.

 

Assembling motors isn't a difficult process man. If you have a machine shop in your area, I would rebuild the motor you have and learn valuable information along the way

 

yes but...that I still a fair bit away's for me just wanted input on the 2 options lol

 

Do the B20 route. Its only 550

you can sell of the parts you dont need and also the GSR bottom end, You'll get alot more $$ back then what you put into the B20.

 

im kind of in the same boat as the op and not to sound like a smart *** clean rice but you make it sound so easy to build a motor.doesn't all that involve special tools to complete such a task correctly? anyone can half *** a engine assembly.

in the long run it would be cheaper to build the gsr bottom end so its ready if you decide to throw more money into the head later down the road. if you have the time rebuild it.

 

The only thing really on honda engines is a good 3/8th's and 1/4 torque wrench. Metric socket set, set of curved nose pliers, and other basic tools.

Read BamBam's write up.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/
I never assmebled an engine before and I just built a B20 (pics in my profile) and it was a fun project. Just plan everything and double check everything.

 

And have it pop, yes.

I ring compressor is about as specialized as it gets.

 

Find me a GSR that makes over 140 foot pounds of torque to the wheels....

http://mnhondas.com/showthread.php?t=20575

I vote B20V all the way. Slap your GSR head on a stock B20 block and go show some type-r swaps what the **** is up.

Oh, and here is a stock GSR for comparison - https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/stock-gsr-dyno-comments-power-torque-curve-2973776/

 

I was under the impression that a engine assembly should go like this:
http://www.evans-tuning.com/tech-art...-a-gsr-engine/

 

Or you could have your machine shop do it.

It makes sense for Evans to have the specialty tools because they build engines on the regular, but for your average enthusiasts - would it make sense to pay all that money for machinery to build a few motors? No.

 

I will say, the 89mm crank is so much nicer than the 87mm crank for street cars.

 

I also vouch for the b20 block, preferably the b20z2 or any one of the b20's with the knock sensor on the back. Good header, bolt ons and ctr/itr cams is a fun set-up. If possible, use ARP rod bolts for that safety. I loved my b20 vtec, it was quick and reliable. Doing a high compression b20 vtec as I speak.

 

what happened to your last b20vtec?

 

Haha the injector got stuck open and the rings in cylinder 3 got hurt. We fixed it and then I hydrolocked my motor and had to suck out A LOT of water from all cylinders lol. After that, still ran pretty hard lol, just not as hard. This was earlier this year when the hydrolocking happended. Don't worry, this won't happen to you, just keep the rev limit at or under 8500. I took my head off two weeka ago there was no crack sleeves or p2v using ctr cams.

 

well that's good to hear lol.

 

MOAR displacement

 

Yep lol. Yea man get that b20 block man and some good bolt ons and maybe some ctr cams or something. Prelude 345's are a good choice as well. Keep the revs below 84-8500 rpms as you won't need more than that on stock-ish cams. It will also prelong the life of the motor.


Oh, and of course get a tune. ←←← this is very important! :-D

 

This is especially important on B20 blocks, as they have quite thin sleeves, almost any detonation can crack one. Make sure your A/F ratio is set and your motor should last a long time.

 

Yes sir. Also don't let the motor overheat either, that helps it to crack a sleeve. I only use honda blue radiator fluid. Keep good oil in it!

 

b20v. ive tried building my gsr and im not happy with the results.

ive. skunk2 stg 1 cams; skunk2 im, tri-y headers, and type r pistons. car ran 13.3. you can probably do that with just the b20v and some after market headers

 

Yessir I agree. A b20 vtec with bolt ons and stage one cams will be quicker than a b18c with internals. With less rpm needed too!

 

I disagree. A nicely built gsr motor will make more power than an internally sock B20/vtec. R cams at most for your stock B20 pistons unless notched or properly clayed.

13.3 is pretty quick - what chassis is it in? Some bigger cams(if motor supports it) and a better header should put you closer to that 12.99.

 

I've waxed a 82mm ls vtec with blox b cams and ctr pistons by four car lenghts and he was dyno tuned and I was street tuned. Just b20z with slightly ported head on the intake side, tri y header, ported itr manifold and ctr cams on e85. Trust me, a b20 vtec with stage one cams will be faster with less effort and less rpm needed. The bmw in the vid is a 335 stock turbos with bolt ons and e85. My car is on the right the ls vtec far left.

 

on average most stock bottom end b20/vtec cars make 180-190ish range with gsr cams, decent header and itr intake mani. with itr cams 190-205whp is pretty common and that's a really really simple setup vs. a fairly heavy modded gsr with cams higher compression etc trying to break 200+whp either way the gsr won't have the torque nor low end of the b20v. I use to be all about gsr's and itr motors, never was a lsv or b20v fan but you can't knock em they make power alot easier than their smaller counterparts with less money and effort.

 

Yep!