Horn Fuse Keeps Blowing
Hi guys! A year ago I installed a horn relay with corresponding fuse to a bosch europa horn. A month ago, I replaced the bosch horn with a mitsuba turbine. It was just plug and play given that I used the same wiring. This morning while driving, when I pressed on the horn button, nothing, not a sound. When I got home, I opened the hood and check the connections. Everything is tight, then pressed the horn button again and just heard the clicking of the relay.
I then check the relay and the fuse, the fuse (20 amp) was blown, so replaced it then tried the horn, fuse blew again. Double check all wirings and connections and again replaced the recently blown 20 amp fuse with a 30 amp fuse but with the same results, as I pressed on the horn button, the fuse would blow. What could be the reason. Also I noticed that even though the fuse has blown and/or fuse holder is empty, relay would click when horn button is pressed. Is that normal? TIA
I then check the relay and the fuse, the fuse (20 amp) was blown, so replaced it then tried the horn, fuse blew again. Double check all wirings and connections and again replaced the recently blown 20 amp fuse with a 30 amp fuse but with the same results, as I pressed on the horn button, the fuse would blow. What could be the reason. Also I noticed that even though the fuse has blown and/or fuse holder is empty, relay would click when horn button is pressed. Is that normal? TIA
Last edited by klite24; Oct 13, 2013 at 07:33 AM. Reason: Add information to the query
Hi guys! A year ago I installed a horn relay with corresponding fuse to a bosch europa horn. A month ago, I replaced the bosch horn with a mitsuba turbine. It was just plug and play given that I used the same wiring. This morning while driving, when I pressed on the horn button, nothing, not a sound. When I got home, I opened the hood and check the connections. Everything is tight, then pressed the horn button again and just heard the clicking of the relay.
I then check the relay and the fuse, the fuse (20 amp) was blown, so replaced it then tried the horn, fuse blew again. Double check all wirings and connections and again replaced the recently blown 20 amp fuse with a 30 amp fuse but with the same results, as I pressed on the horn button, the fuse would blow. What could be the reason. Also I noticed that even though the fuse has blown and/or fuse holder is empty, relay would click when horn button is pressed. Is that normal? TIA
I then check the relay and the fuse, the fuse (20 amp) was blown, so replaced it then tried the horn, fuse blew again. Double check all wirings and connections and again replaced the recently blown 20 amp fuse with a 30 amp fuse but with the same results, as I pressed on the horn button, the fuse would blow. What could be the reason. Also I noticed that even though the fuse has blown and/or fuse holder is empty, relay would click when horn button is pressed. Is that normal? TIA
If the fuse is blowing the second you apply power it means you've got an electrical issue somewhere in the circuit. Do you still have your stock horn to see if it works? Is the wiring damaged anywhere along the line to the aftermarket horn?
Where did you end up grounding it?
Forgot to mention, its a 5th gen 97 model.
When I got the car, it already came with the Bosch Europa horn unfortunately it doesnt work anymore. For the ground, I placed it near the body ground from the battery negative.
You shouldn't randomly insert a larger fuse than what's called for into the circuit, you risk seriously damaging some stuff.
If the fuse is blowing the second you apply power it means you've got an electrical issue somewhere in the circuit. Do you still have your stock horn to see if it works? Is the wiring damaged anywhere along the line to the aftermarket horn?
Where did you end up grounding it?
If the fuse is blowing the second you apply power it means you've got an electrical issue somewhere in the circuit. Do you still have your stock horn to see if it works? Is the wiring damaged anywhere along the line to the aftermarket horn?
Where did you end up grounding it?
This is the confusing part for me and why we needed to know the gen (year) of the car. On the 5th gen in OE setup......one power wire goes to the horn (WHT/YEL) and is constant almost direct from the battery - ground is from the horn relay.
6th gens change and supply power to the horn thru the relay and ground is from the body of the car.
So the first thing you need to do....unplug the horn(s). Replace the fuse with the proper amp fuse....what happens? The #30 20amp fuse in the under hood fuse box also goes to "other" things....so lets confirm the horn is really the issue......just me.
6th gens change and supply power to the horn thru the relay and ground is from the body of the car.
So the first thing you need to do....unplug the horn(s). Replace the fuse with the proper amp fuse....what happens? The #30 20amp fuse in the under hood fuse box also goes to "other" things....so lets confirm the horn is really the issue......just me.
Even for 5th gen Accords, the horn circuit for 96-97 is different than for 94-95.
This how it is for the 96-97 Accords. Battery voltage is applied to the horn relay contacts at all times. The horn relay is a normally open type of relay. For 96-97 Accords, when you press either of the steering wheel horn buttons, ground is supplied through the horn buttons to the horn relay, which energizes the relay (the ground coming through from the steering wheel horn buttons to the relay are only to energize the horn relay to close the relay), this in turn closes the horn relay and allows the battery voltage (+) through the relay to the horns. Both stock left and right horns get it's ground (-) from the car chassis.
With the fuse blowing, there is an electrical short. Either the Wht/Yel wire is touching ground or another wire. So, look for areas where the wiring insulation can be worn through. Is the wheel well inner fender lining still there, if not, the wire insulation may have been worn through and the wire exposed or cut and touching the chassis ground or another exposed wire.
This how it is for the 96-97 Accords. Battery voltage is applied to the horn relay contacts at all times. The horn relay is a normally open type of relay. For 96-97 Accords, when you press either of the steering wheel horn buttons, ground is supplied through the horn buttons to the horn relay, which energizes the relay (the ground coming through from the steering wheel horn buttons to the relay are only to energize the horn relay to close the relay), this in turn closes the horn relay and allows the battery voltage (+) through the relay to the horns. Both stock left and right horns get it's ground (-) from the car chassis.
With the fuse blowing, there is an electrical short. Either the Wht/Yel wire is touching ground or another wire. So, look for areas where the wiring insulation can be worn through. Is the wheel well inner fender lining still there, if not, the wire insulation may have been worn through and the wire exposed or cut and touching the chassis ground or another exposed wire.
Last edited by tech8; Oct 14, 2013 at 04:50 PM.
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