d16a6 build vs ZC

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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 05:31 AM
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Icon2 d16a6 build vs ZC

I own a 1988 Crx Si. I bought off of somebody who bought it as a project car. He was told that there was a new engine in it with 60k miles. it is a d16a6. The car had been sitting for 2 years when I bought it, which I payed $750 for it. The problem is that it overheats and it burns oil. but again, I payed $750 for it so I can't be mad that it has problems.

My question is should I fix and build the d16a6 or should I put a jdm DOHC ZC in it? Or should I put something else in it?

I want to put a motor in it that'll drop right in with no problem.
I've thought about the B series swap but that requires me to do more stuff to my car then what I want to do right now

Thanks for reading and tell me what you think
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 06:04 AM
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Default Re: d16a6 build vs ZC

Originally Posted by Chris_88CRXSi
I own a 1988 Crx Si. I bought off of somebody who bought it as a project car. He was told that there was a new engine in it with 60k miles. it is a d16a6. The car had been sitting for 2 years when I bought it, which I payed $750 for it. The problem is that it overheats and it burns oil. but again, I payed $750 for it so I can't be mad that it has problems.

My question is should I fix and build the d16a6 or should I put a jdm DOHC ZC in it? Or should I put something else in it?

I want to put a motor in it that'll drop right in with no problem.
I've thought about the B series swap but that requires me to do more stuff to my car then what I want to do right now

Thanks for reading and tell me what you think
I wouldn't go for the DOHC ZC, the parts are hard to find. If you want a different motor, and it to be a direct drop it, the D16Z6 is for you. If your transmission is good, just get a complete D16Z6 longblock with head.

But, my honest suggestion, would be a B-series swap. The mounts and shift linkage are really the only non-stock components that are needed. But it is quite a bit more time consuming and 'harder' to do.

The Z6 will net you something like 115 whp and the B16A will get you closer to 140 whp. The DOHC VTEC motors brought a lot of efficiency into the Honda world in terms of power per liter. But the DOHC was never meant to be in the EF chassis and brings a lot of issues with it. Mostly fitment.

If money and time are tight, Z6. In a more perfect world, I'd say B18C.
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 08:02 AM
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Default Re: d16a6 build vs ZC

Originally Posted by Freemananana
I wouldn't go for the DOHC ZC, the parts are hard to find. If you want a different motor, and it to be a direct drop it, the D16Z6 is for you. If your transmission is good, just get a complete D16Z6 longblock with head.

But, my honest suggestion, would be a B-series swap. The mounts and shift linkage are really the only non-stock components that are needed. But it is quite a bit more time consuming and 'harder' to do.

The Z6 will net you something like 115 whp and the B16A will get you closer to 140 whp. The DOHC VTEC motors brought a lot of efficiency into the Honda world in terms of power per liter. But the DOHC was never meant to be in the EF chassis and brings a lot of issues with it. Mostly fitment.

If money and time are tight, Z6. In a more perfect world, I'd say B18C.
I would do a b series swap but I don't wanna have to wire my car for vtec
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 09:08 AM
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Default Re: d16a6 build vs ZC

get the DOHC ZC - bolts right in and has more hp than any stock SOHC D-series - parts are no harder to find than for any other D-series
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 10:00 AM
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Default Re: d16a6 build vs ZC

I was going to say the same thing. I miss my old DOHC ZC very much. I'd add to what "jlicrx" said by saying it is not so much that it's harder to find parts for this particular engine but the key is knowing what is equivalent or interchangeable. If you know that, you realize (just as "jlicrx" stated):

Originally Posted by jlicrx
parts are no harder to find than for any other D-series
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 12:53 PM
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Default Re: d16a6 build vs ZC

Originally Posted by 24TEN
I was going to say the same thing. I miss my old DOHC ZC very much. I'd add to what "jlicrx" said by saying it is not so much that it's harder to find parts for this particular engine but the key is knowing what is equivalent or interchangeable. If you know that, you realize (just as "jlicrx" stated):
Understandable, I only know that the ZC isn't common. I suppose it's not much different than me getting parts for a 94 Del Sol VTEC since the B16A really doesn't exist.

Originally Posted by Chris_88CRXSi
I would do a b series swap but I don't wanna have to wire my car for vtec
It's really easy. Literally 2 wires.
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 05:32 AM
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So either get the d16z6 or the DOHC ZC? Either one I'd be happy with but if vtec really isn't that hard to wire to my car I'd rather have vtec
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris_88CRXSi
So either get the d16z6 or the DOHC ZC? Either one I'd be happy with but if vtec really isn't that hard to wire to my car I'd rather have vtec
If budget is no object get a z6, but if you have limited funds you can stay OBD0 with the ZC, but with the Z6 you have to go OBD1 which means you need the z6 dizzy 4 wire o2 sensor, jumper harness, and P28 ecu to run correctly.

Just something to keep in mind.
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 08:06 AM
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Default Re: d16a6 build vs ZC

Originally Posted by Chris_88CRXSi
So either get the d16z6 or the DOHC ZC? Either one I'd be happy with but if vtec really isn't that hard to wire to my car I'd rather have vtec
VTEC is very easy. Any D series swap will be easy, mainly, because the mounts line up without needed new ones. And since your car is already MPFI, you don't need to change very many wires. VTEC is just the wire that goes to the solenoid, the wire that goes to the pressure switch, ground the other side of the pressure switch, and a knock sensor if you had an OBD0 VTEC motor. I don't think the OBD1 (Z6/Y8) had a knock sensor.

Originally Posted by Red-Rocket
If budget is no object get a z6, but if you have limited funds you can stay OBD0 with the ZC, but with the Z6 you have to go OBD1 which means you need the z6 dizzy 4 wire o2 sensor, jumper harness, and P28 ecu to run correctly.

Just something to keep in mind.
Going OBD1 shouldn't be pricy. When you get your block, try and get it with a distributor and the ECU. Most motors that come with the stock exhaust will have the stock O2 sensor still in it. So really, if you are just buying a motor, you will have to get the conversion harness for the Z6 but not the ZC. Either way, you still have to buy a distributor and ECU. I am not too sure on the actual price difference between the motors though.
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