Replace head gasket on d15b7, used d16y8 steel head gasket, replaced head bolts, clean the head checked for any cracks and used a straight edge to check for warpage. Everything was fine. Put the head back on and made a valve adjustment. No start . Doesnt wanna turn over. Car started before I took the head off. But was smoking and had a loss in acceleration . Bogging out and what not. Also just recently started shutting off when I let go of the gas. Thought it was battery not having enough power to fire the fuel injectors. Replaced battery. Still did the same thing but not as frequent. Currently has no compression in any cylinders. Pretty much had it with the motor. Gonna swap but gotta save some money up . No other car in the mean time. Maybe i can still save it?? Or is it ****? Ive herd that sometimes the head can be not flat on the block and im looking at it but debating whether its flat or not. I have some pictures . Any help is much appreciated.

 

If you properly straight edged the block and the head, then they're sitting flat on each other. Unfortunately the only two useful pictures (the valves, and the top of the block) were taken with a potato, so we can't see enough detail to tell you anything. I really hope that block picture isn't what it looked like before you put the head back on, though - that block desperately needs to be hydrosonically cleaned.

 

Have you double check your vavle adjustment?

 

Cleaned everything , the picture was of the dirty block was before I cleaned it. And I double checked the valve adjustment . Im sure its on point. Just weird that I have no compression in any cylinders. Maybe the cylinder walls are **** or the piston rings? I had water in my radiator and it was mixing with oil before replacing hg.

 

Check the mechanical timing. That's the only way can see having no compression on any cylinder in this scenario.

 

I checked the timing but I guess a 2nd try wont hurt. So should I just bring the 1st cylinder to tdc ?

 

When you say no compression do you mean literally 0 psi in all cylinders or just really low?

 

timing belt ( not set correctly) is next only way you can no comp minus hole in al 4 pistons

 

No. If you do that it could still be 180* out.

You need to pull the upper t-belt cover off first and look at the cam gear. Then locate the word "UP" engraved on a cam gear arm. You want "UP" to be pointed up, and there are two horizontal engraving on the gear which should line up with the flat surface of the head (where valve cover mates).

 

Low compression in one and it was bouncy and the others were none at all

 

How do I rotate the cam gear??? The up engraving isnt pointed up and the lines arent matched with the head.

 

You should read a repair manual

 

Heres the cam gear

 

I dont have a manual.

 

Rotate the crank COUNTER CLOCKWISE with a 17mm socket in the crank pulley, this will also turn the camshaft to the up position.

If you put it back together without putting it to TDC in the first place, then thats probably your answer. You may be many teeth off or messed with your valvetrain.

 

how on earth do you change a head gasket and not know how to get to tdc?

seriously...

and not have a manual?

am I missing something.

 

Taste your message before replying. This guy has only a single car and has gone to great lengths to repair it.

 

You need one. Send me a PM message with your email address and mailing address and I will make sure you get one.

It would seem there is a 50% chance you have a serious problem with the engine. If the #1 cylinder is at TDC, you need to put the cam at TDC (UP mark) before setting the head on and attaching the timing belt. Since you put it back together, do you recall doing this at all?

 

I know how to get the car to tdc but wasnt sure if moving the crank did anything to the cam. New to this. But I put it to tdc before putting the head on. But idk why the cam would not have the up symbol facing up . I just tried to turn the crank and its too hard. I even tried a pipe for leverage but not turning. Should I take out the spark plugs? Maybe compression is built up? Or something.

 

I might b wrong but in the pic of the head it looks like u might have a couple bent valves in the second set in. I might just being seeing things cuz its hard to c on my phone. If ur at #1 tdc in the pic then ur timing is off. Set it to tdc #1 n then loosen up ur tensioner n pull the belt off the cam n then turn ur cam to the UP position. Put the belt back on n set the tension. Hope this helps. Anybody on a CPU with a better look at that head pic check it out.

 

idk bud but that doesn't sound too good u should always b able to turn it over

 

The valves werent bent when I looked at it though.

 

You can't always see if they are bent. Best way to tell is lay the head upside down with camshaft removed. This will force all valves to close. Then pour a little bit of gasoline into each chamber and watch for it to leak out past the valves. If the intake or exhaust ports are wet, a valve is not seating and 95% chance is bent.

Check your email.

 

Gonna do some reading and ill post back im the am. Thanks!

 

If you cannot manually turn it over, you might be so far out of time that your pistons are butting up against the valves when you try.

Verify and, if necessary, correct mechanical timing. Loosen timing belt tensioner bolt. Slip the timing belt off the cam pulley. Make sure the white mark near the three colored marks on the crankshaft pulley lines up exactly with the the sights on the lower-outer timing cover. Next, check the cam pulley timing by insuring "UP" is facing up, the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock marks are lined up with the upper lip of the cylinder head... when correct, the 7 o'clock mark on the cam pulley will be just a few degrees offset clockwise compared to the 7 o'clock mark on the upper-inner timing cover. Retighten timing tensioner bolt to spec and set timing belt tension by hand-rotating crankshaft approximately 3 teeth counterclockwise.

To see valves are bent, remove the head, remove rocker arm assembly and camshaft, sit the head on it's sides, and spray brake cleaner in each intake and exhaust hole. If all the brake cleaner leaks out of the valve-head mating surface in 5 minutes or less, your valves are already bent and must replaced.

Also, obtain a repair manual of some kind. Preferably the official Honda one.