Hey guys,

When at wot my hatch tends to walk itself from one side of the road to another in a rather scary fashion.

Wondering if I need some sort of traction bars, a little more toe in...

Anyone have this problem or have any suggestions?

Its in my sig but car is a 93 boosted hatch putting 455 to the ground.

 

Jees, that's making some good power! What sort of tires are you running?

 

Torque steer. Have your suspension/tires looked at

 

Running some Nitto Neo Gens on RPF-1s. 205/50/15s.

 

Torque steer pulls the car to the right and left? And i know its suspension... i dont know what exactly in suspension.

 

No, that's not torque steer, that sounds like your car is crabbing. It's in desperate need of a professional alignment.

 

Your power is gripping more on one side while the other is peeling tire. You don't have an LSD in your trans do you

 

That's more or less what I was thinking. An LSD would probably help a good amount if you don't have one already.

 

limited slip and an alignment.

 

going bigger then 205 never hurts also or a more sticky compound tire. but look into that after you get an alignment.

 

Just curious as well what is your suspension setup? Stock shocks?

 

What's your current suspension setup (list all upgrades or if they're stock, and what kind of stock parts)

 

It is a LSD, has coilovers but im unsure the type I will check today.

 

Any other modified parts? Have you ever gotten it professionally aligned? Are the wheels/tires matching and tires have grip?

 

you're making 400hp and you don't know what type of suspension you have.....

odd.

 

Just purchased the car yesterday... thats why lol.

Tires are good, it is professionally aligned.

 

You didn't notice this during the test drive??

 

Could of also been the road itself. We have wavy roads here where the tire path is sunken in from the middle if the road.

 

I have a similar issue with my coupe, after change bushings and alignment the car still do the same. New tokico blues and OBX coil overs.

Type r LSD.

Then the guys from Forced Induction help me to find my problem that ended:

1- KYB AGX adjustable shocks
2- A stiffer rate spring (I went with s2 560lbs front and 450 rear).
3- 205/50/15 KU-36

and like marvin1985 said the road itself play a big role.

 

I guess going from obx to junk2 is an improvement but the sleeves were the worst suspension I have ever had!!! Koni yellows and GC are a much better option. AMR is the best suspension option IMO.

If your alignment is good, I would say find out what your suspension is.

 

AMR isn't "the best", but it's one of the best options.

OP, you say the car is "professionally aligned", but did YOU get it done, or are you just going off what the PO said? Never trust a PO - always get your own maintenance work done after you buy the car.

 

Guess I should have worded that better but I'm on phone right now. AMR is great due to building what you want exactly and guarantying for life.

Very true on second part. Phone is pissing me off so I won't elaborate.

 

The crown of the road and where your car tracks on it plays a HUGE role in torque steer and how well you are able to control the vehicle. Regardless of suspension and alignment being dead on or not your car will naturally try to follow the curvature on the road. And when you put more power to it, it just does it faster. I bet if you went to a flat black top/drag strip it would be considerably less. And if you don't have LSD that will also play a role. Overall, invest in some bigger wrists, forearmsand triceps, and hold on.

 

sounds to me his tie rods are probably sloppy... I know mine with 200hp would torque steer bad and pull when I hit the lines on the middle of the road.

 

I had torque steer and wheel hop, but after i did a corner balance, 95% of it went away.

Mine came to a 52frt/48rr and handling is very predictable.


Im not saying this is the fix, im just commenting on what fixed mine.
Having it balanced on an alignment rack will kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

Get it aligned and balanced at the same time.