Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

93 Accord EX: Service port issues

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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 02:11 AM
  #1  
johnny121b's Avatar
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Default 93 Accord EX: Service port issues

1993 Accord EX. Having problems. Trying to decide what to do..

I'm reading conflicting info on checking the service port.

I found the blue 2-pin connector near the passenger side kick plate.

Jumping IT, causes my ABS light to flash 7 1


1. Do I have the right connector?
2. If not, where-in-the-absolute-hell IS that connector???
3. Why is it flashing the ABS light instead of CHECK ENGINE light?
4. Would my CHECK ENGINE light be ON if I had codes to retrieve?



I'm trying to resolve my problem myself, since nobody locally has been able to tell me anything I don't know. And just in case, I'll explain my issue here, too.

Car has 282k miles. Starts perfectly EVERY time, but after a cool/cold start, in about a minute, the RPM drops to about idle and it runs rough for 5-30 seconds. During this time, it will not accelerate. Gas pedal does nothing. After the spell is over, it runs perfectly. It only seems to do this when the car is started after sitting for at least 30 minutes.

My CHECK ENGINE light is NOT on.

Both DOOR and TRUNK lights on the dash will occasionally spastically come on. By that, I mean they come on, dim to 50%, dim to 10%, return to full brightness- not necessarily in that order and not with any consistent timing. I've not been able to observe any reaction based on the car's vibrations. (The lights' timing aren't affected by bumps in the road) Battery is less than 1 year old and seems to be charging. According to the gizmo at AutoZone, my alternator is charging. The BRAKE LIGHT indicator also sometimes flashes with the DOOR/TRUNK indicators. I'm not sure if this symptom is even related to my stalling issue....because it was doing that BEFORE it began.

HELP!?

PS: I'm NOT concerned about the ABS system. It's been disabled for the last year (fuse pulled).


UPDATE: My problem turned out to be a gunked up IAC valve. I removed the valve from the throttle body, and the screened port was filled with carbon. I sprayed it clean with carburetor cleaner, let it dry, reinstalled it, adjusted my idle (which was then too low), and I'm back-in-business. I don't expect this will resolve my spastic door/trunk indicator lights- although they haven't flashed since last night, I'm betting they're a separate issue. IF I resolve that one anytime soon, I'll update on my findings there as well.

Last edited by johnny121b; Oct 22, 2013 at 04:31 PM. Reason: Major issue resolved.
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 05:01 AM
  #2  
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Default Re: 93 Accord EX: Service port issues

1. Yes you have the right connector.
2. Same as 1.
3. The STS connector (blue 2 pin connector) is used for all your ECU diagnostic functions, including the ABS, Engine and Safety systems. Pull the ABS fuse = Diagnostic Trouble Code, and that is why ABS light is flashing with the connector shorted.
4. Yes your CEL would also be throwing codes if there were DTCodes stored in the ECU memory.

Does your CEL light up for 2 seconds when you first turn the ignition on?

Your issue sounds like it might be something in the idle air control system. Most of the time when these things go out of adjustment there will be no check engine codes. How your engine is running/idling is the only indication. Could be an issue with the idle air control valve, the fast idle thermal valve, air boost valve or maybe even the engine coolant temp sensor might be out of range. Could even be a dirty throttle body and EGR ports.

There are numerous DIY threads on how to fix a surging idle and how to clean your IAC, FIT and EGR ports in the Accord FAQs.
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 08:44 AM
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Default Re: 93 Accord EX: Service port issues

First, thank you for the advice.

Yes, CHECK ENGINE lights momentarily when the key's turned. It also comes on steady if the jumper is installed on the STS connector while the key is on.

Outside the window of trouble, the engine runs like it has for years.

I didn't know this was considered "surging idle"....since it never seems to spike above my throttle level...although I guess it does surge the instant the spell ends- if the throttle happens to be down, it [does] hop up to speed. I'll look for those DIYs.

Would the EGR/FIT/IAC only affect the car from a cool/cold start...and never at highway speed? (Once I've been on the road, it has to sit for about 30-minutes before it'll do it again)

Safe to say the flashing door/trunk/brake indicators are an unrelated symptom?
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