Hey there H-T

So I Bought a 92 Eg Hatch that I bought for an AMAZING!! deal, It has already boosted. But I just don't know how well the motor has been built. So this is kind of a walk through of the rebuild and some constructive criticism is always good. This Is my First rebuild so I may be asking a lot of questions from time to time.

So lets break down what the car already has!

This is what the seller Stated..

Block:
B18a
Stock Crank
Stock Sleeve
Je 9:1 Pistons
Eagle Rods
Block guard

Head:
Pr3 Head (B16)
Skunk2 Tuner Cam
Skunk2 Cam Gears
Skunk2 valve Spring Retainers
Unknown Valves
Skunk2 Intake Manifold

Turbo Kit:

Garrett 60-1
BWR Ramhorn
Ebay 38mm WG
Ebay HKS Rep BOV
Ebay Intercooler


Suspension:

5 Lug Conversion
Tein Super Coilovers
Tein EDFC
Omni LCA

Tuning

Apexi Power FC ?


Now on for the rebuild, While some may think that is a pretty good start. I wanted more. I want a street car that can perform well at the track and street. So the goal is 650-700

I recent bought a Benson Sleeved block that was built for an N/A application and I went against the gain and now going to throw boost at it, with the proper clearances that is!

So the benson came with Cp 84mm 11:5.1 Pistons (going to jump on the high compression turbo bandwagon, PS Thanks Muckman!) lol. Manley Rods and a Oem Gsr crank. The bearings were set fairly tight to what I thought but I would like to get some of your opinions to. Rods bearings clearance was set at .0015 and main bearings 1,2,4,5 are set at .0015 and #3 is at .0017. That seems alittle tight for the power I want to make what do you guys think? They are OEM bearings also

On a good note the block only has 200miles on the recent rebuild lol.

New turbo will be a Precision 6262
Tial 44
Tial Qbov


Some Crappy Pics!
how it sits now

 

Benson block got sent in to the local machine shop yesterday, new p2w clearance set at .004, resurface and jet washed. Also had the crank checked over. Go-autoworks also shipped my new radiator and fan shroud! Thanks Greg

 

Installed the new radiator I got from Greg at Go-autoworks, His stuff is pretty amazing. machine shop still has my block =( I will have to get some video on how the car is running currently

 

Fun stuff

 

looks good to me, but get rid of the clear corner lights... This should be a sick finished product though.

 

Thanks, I surely hopes it comes together nicely

 

Not sure if the N/A pistons will handle the abuse you should call cp... some manufacture the N/A pistons with thinner material on the domes than the turbo pistons or a custom piston built for forced induction.

 

got some decent footage lastnight against a evo, turbo hatch and b20v. I will uploaded them as soon as my buddy gets it off his phone

 

So I got around the checking my clearances with acl bearings #5m1959H which I believe are STD.

This is what I got with a micropolished cranked

Main 1: .0017
Main 2: .0017
Main 3: .002
Main 4: .002
Main 5: .0016

Will I be ok? I know that 3&4 is alittle loose. I have an extra crank that hasn't been touched but it gave me tighter clearances using the same acl bearings, I think I can get HX which are thinner and use the untouched crank, what do u guys think?

 

Need to go looser for 650-700. More like .0002"

 

Oh really I thought .0020 is out of spec, but ive been reading other post and they been running .002 on Mains and rods

 

Interesing project . Good luck on your quest

 

700 will be the limit of a 6262 and you'll need at least e85 to make it

my question is, if it isn't broken why **** with it? If you wanted a project car you could've gotten a much cheaper non-boosted hatch and gone from there, unless you intend to sell everything you remove/replace (which is hard to do in this economy, trust me)

and I too am worried about the "shelf" NA piston, because as previously stated most NA pistons have thinner material at the tops/dome than FI pistons and much thinner, lighter, weaker wrist pins... ask muckman about bending all 4 of his wrist pins. You need to at least get the thickest, straight walled piston pin CP makes and then ask them about your current pistons, I'm pretty sure they are too thin for your intended use (again ask Muckman how an off the shelf NA piston worked out)

 

I wouldn't mess with a car like this. It's like taking a B18C swapped civic and swapping in a J32. Why? Get a DPFI civic with a blown motor and do the swap. Don't spend money on someone's set up with intentions of just replacing it.

 

Well I got the car for a hell of a deal, and that was after I bought the block, so this became the project car. Now that my buddy is building a car aswell, my existing setup is being sold to him. So it works out both ways, I actually can out on top of this whole deal.

So back to clearances! Trying to get more opinions.

 

Why not give him this car and use his? It would save the both of you at least one motor swap.

 

Lets see, his car isnt physically as clean, does not have 5 lug swap, isnt a eg hatch, isnt white.. Plenty of reasons.

 

I paid 3,000$ for this car as it sits, im selling the swap minus the Trans & head for 2,000. So that puts me at $1000 for a clean eg hatch, jdm rear interior, 5 lug with itr wheels, brand new bfg, and tien suspension....etc etc...so...idky everyone so worried about me doing a swap to a built engine...

 

Well now that you told us prices and what you're doing with all of the old parts, it makes perfect sense.. hard to beat finding a clean bodied, boosted eg hatch for 3,000... much less a stock one lol. and selling the swap for 2k really makes it worth it now. I know I would do what you are doing if I ended up only spending 1k on that car, plus that extra 2k in your pocket should get a bulk of your engine work and some of the turbo stuff done, and done the right way with quality parts

I'm assuming you'll be keeping the trans and head for your new engine build/plans?

Definitely intrigued now, I'll be following your build for sure

 

I definitely agree. That sort of changed everything. Most people say they got something for a deal but never put down definite numbers. I'll watch this for sure, I watch all the turbo builds.

 

The head and Trans will be inspected and put on my N/A build, so those will but to good use.

So as far as clearances go, I talked to a local shop and he said that I will be fine, I may try the hx bearings and my other crank and see what I get. Ill this thread updated.

As far as the 6262 go, I got the go ahead and changed up my setup. So I have a t4 topmount twin scroll on the way built by straightline motorsports in FL. And will be using a BWS366 extended tip. I would just do a billet 6766, but I still wanna budget myself and have fun.

 

Sorry for no updates, I finally got the car in the garage, and pulled the motor. I have a bunch of parts coming Monday from my good friend Mr.nailor