So mid pull racing a tiburon my car feels like it has a hard miss, then shortly after I'm in limp mode. Can't pass 3500 rpm runs real rich and have no throttle response( very sluggish). Changed ckf sensor, checked physical timing, replaced with a used dizzy, checked and cleaned all engine and ecu grounds, and I Am running and obd2-obd1 with a crome tune conversion for forced induction with an eBay conversion harness. All this time the only code that never goes off,cel doesn't go off no matter haw many ecu official resets I do. Need help bad I drive 80 miles a day to work.

 

your dd is a turbo that you Street race....... hmmmmm

and you never told us what cell it is.. so how can we help

 

What CEL code?

Engine and elaborate in your setup.

 

Cell, make model, mods etc?

 

1996 Civic D17y7 when I bought it. came with and still has a y8 intake manifold and y8 main wiring harness because it was replaced to a y7 from a y8. Mods and setup consists of an intercooled mitsu td04a tnlessurbo header with external wastegate. From there 2.5" down pipe all the way back, no cat just big glass pack.
Funny part is the next day to fire her up after knowing something was up the night before, my main relay would go nuts and buzz until I turned the key back off. Did a little testing for shorts and found that the main relay didn't have ground going into the relay from the harness side. So I spliced the supposed factory ground wire for the main relay and found another ground to connect it to and Bingo, no more buzzing and was acting normal.
My question is do you think the Bad main relay ground relay ground issue could be relating to this dreaded #4 ckp code. No matter what Ive tried so far I'm still stuck in limp mode with code 4 present at all times.
Maybe something else that seems unrelated to the ckp is setting off thast code because its a p06 obd1 ecu. Also have oil pressure, boost and AFR gauges in the cabin.

 

D17Y7 or D16Y7?

Are you running on a stock map or at least a decent basemap or chip?
Did you do the complete OBD2A/B to OBD1 swap? Can you take a photo?

If it's a D16Y7, the CPK is behind the timing belt cover, the OBD1 D-series have a CPK in the distributor from what I've read.

Use an OBD1 Dizzy that has the CPK in it.

 

Since you have a obd1 ECU she's looking for the ignition CKP. Take a look around your dizzy and check the part num. to know what obd she is.

In any time your car run right or you have problems since begin.

 

D16Y7 was running a strong tune through crome for a year and a half, she was a beast (first boosted car), anyways tuned good not stock basemap at all. Did do the OBD2A/B to OBD1 conversion with a cheap *** conversion harness, Im actually finding poor quality is making me suffer, I wiggled the harness a little while driving just to see and she started jerking, rpm guage drops feels like abrupt fuel cut in boost. Then I stop messing with the wires and shell at least run well without jerking , but still in limp mode. And right now Im running an Obd1 dizzy with all the internals swapped into my original housing. (seal looked better in mine.) So seeing this red dust in my dizzy when I remove the dist cap and shaft play on the shaft bearing I found one with no dust and minimal play. Reset ecu, still in limp mode. did compression test today ill post soon

 

Compression test results: #1-140 #2-145 #3-160 #4-155. So much lower than the last time I took them to diagnose my leaking headgasket. Just checked the physical timing again and it seems spot on.

 

I'm what you call an adrenaline junkie. Life's too short bro. BOOST DAILY.

 

You only live one short life

 

After seeing the red dust in my dizzy I've since then used an obd1 instead of another obd2a dizzy. So I'm currently running and obd1 p06 ecu with an obd1 dizzy. Thing that confuses me is that before this mil code 4 with this limp mode she ran mint, eve with the obd1a dizzy. So since I'm already converted to obd1 with an obd1 dizzy that should've solved it. Oh yeah brand new coil for it too.

 

She used to run beautifully my friend. I love boost. Lol. Did replace the ckf sensor behind the main pulley when I did my head gasket too.

 

P06 ECU + obd1 Dizzy = No crank Sensor needed on the oil pump.

 

I believe I don't even need a crank fluctuation sensor that's behind the main drive pulley. I'm know my crank position sensor is in my dizzy. I've swapped it out car runs the same as before so I think there's another issue. Repaired some wiring today and tested it, cleaned ecu ground which was corroded, can my p28 rom chip just go bad leaving me stuck in limp mode? I don't think my ecu is fried because I've inspected it physically and also made sure it was still responding by unplugging other sensors. I have no codes when I plug in my stock y8 ecu except o2 sensors but that's normal. Does anyone have spare chips just to see if I have a bad EEPROM.

 

I got the dizzy from an earlier model civic that had a ext. ign. Coil setup so I assumed it was obd1, Ill check the housing to see what it is. I kept my orig. housing.

 

Wait so you're using an external coil? Wdfff

 

Are you still running the stock injectors ? Have you tried swapping out to a stock ecu, going over 3500 without hitting boost ?

 

Lolol. **** just got serious.

 

Sorry I didn't specify but I used my original coil that fit right into the dizzy I put in. Part number on the dizzy is a td 52u, supposed to be from an accord apparently. So is it considered an obd1 or obd2 dizzy?

 

Wouldn't be smart to run stock injectors on a boosted setup man. Got 450cc dsm low imp. Injectors resistors wired inline. When I switch to a stock ecu the fuel map floods my cylinders and won't run because the 450cc injectors are running wide open. But after a few tries I run the obd2 scan and only got o2 sensor codes. Still can't pass 3500 rpm. Limp mode baby

 

I'm saying, could you just throw the NA **** back on there and test it out that way? I understand it's your daily, and you probably
don't have the convenience for performing these things.

Referring to the CKP signal, do you have continuity for both positive and negative wires going from the ECU to the dizzy ?

 

Funny you say that because that was my next thing in mind. Glad I kept the stocks around.
I manage a shop, wheres shes parked now,currently convenience to work on in is abundant, lol. I'm pretty sure shed run nice with the stock inj. and ecu. I used a td52u dizzy because of the cel code 4, fits nicely. Does the td52u dizzy internals in my td80u housing be compatible.

 

I've tested for continuity for all three sensors in the dizzy, got continuity to the tdc cyp and ckp sensors. I'm so stumped lol.

 

I'm not too sure about how compatible those parts are when flip flopping them around, I wish I was a little more familiar with it to be honest. Wiring is something I'm good at only when I'm lucky. Lol. Then if I don't do it for a while, it becomes a struggle.

Your best bet would be throwing the stock stuff back on, and troubleshooting it from there. If you see that she runs fine then, you know something could be up with that EPROM. Diagnosis is so f'd now a days man, it's all hit or miss.