95 Accord Idle Issue
Ok, a little background..Just put a japan imported F22 in my accord about 3 to 4 weeks ago...Yesterday as I was driving I noticed 2 things:
1)When Im coming to a stop and put my car in neutral (5-speed manual) the RPM's will climb to about 3000 and sit there for a second and then the RPM's will drop to the point where the car just about dies then goes up to normal.
2)I notice when im cruising on at a steady speed (yesterday it was at 35mph) the car will start jerking forward until i either slow down or speed up. (Did it this morning too while on the freeway cruising at 65mph)
**The ICV that sits on the back of the throttlebody i have removed and cleaned out. (btw, this is the same ICV that was on my old motor as the mechanic said it looked better)
**I will also mention that I have no intake pipe on it as im trying to find someone to cut my old pipe down so it doesnt go down my front tire anymore. (the reason for replacing the motor as it hydrolocked) Its not a daily driver, mostly use it to pick my kids up, but ive probably put maybe 150 miles on it since i got it back without any problems..I know i need the pipe..
So what if any are the possible things to check?
Thanks in advance
1)When Im coming to a stop and put my car in neutral (5-speed manual) the RPM's will climb to about 3000 and sit there for a second and then the RPM's will drop to the point where the car just about dies then goes up to normal.
2)I notice when im cruising on at a steady speed (yesterday it was at 35mph) the car will start jerking forward until i either slow down or speed up. (Did it this morning too while on the freeway cruising at 65mph)
**The ICV that sits on the back of the throttlebody i have removed and cleaned out. (btw, this is the same ICV that was on my old motor as the mechanic said it looked better)
**I will also mention that I have no intake pipe on it as im trying to find someone to cut my old pipe down so it doesnt go down my front tire anymore. (the reason for replacing the motor as it hydrolocked) Its not a daily driver, mostly use it to pick my kids up, but ive probably put maybe 150 miles on it since i got it back without any problems..I know i need the pipe..
So what if any are the possible things to check?
Thanks in advance
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/cleaning-iacv-fitv-tb-1844067/
question, inside the TB are the 2 holes for the FITV and IACV. I read after the car warms up there shouldnt really be any type of suction from the FITV hole (bottom hole in TB). Well mine was sucking like a fat girl sucking on a McDonalds shake after warm up does this mean the FITV is not working correctly and would this be causing my idle problems?
could very well cause your issue. also a trapped air bubble in the valve could do wacky things to the fitv as it is activated by heat. there are write ups on servicing the fitv . just got to search.
i have that link and have been searching. Thats where i saw about the suction, but didnt see anything if it was "still" suctioning after warm up, thus, reason for the question..just wanting to make sure..just removed the FITV and the white plunger thing i rotated almost 3 times around before it tightned..Gonna reinstall it and pray that it fixes it
Inside the TB are the 2 holes for the FITV and IACV. I read after the car warms up there shouldnt really be any type of suction from the FITV hole (bottom hole in TB). Well mine was sucking like a fat girl sucking on a McDonalds shake after warm up, does this mean the FITV is not working correctly and would this be causing my idle problems? Also the IACV had hardly any suction after warm up, is that correct? It had the same suction as the FITV until it warmed up.
Just removed the FITV and i was able to turn the white plunger thing at least 2 times around before i tightened it..removed the battery cable for a few minutes, gonna reattach it and see if that fixed it...Now I notice though that the FITV hole inside the TB has hardly any suction after warm up and the IACV has alot of suction...Is this the correct functionality?
Ok, the idle doesnt climb up anymore when I take it out of gear, but when I come to a stop its still dropping to just about zero (0) and it almost shuts off,,,plus its still surging at 35mph just doesnt seem to be jerking as hard as before..What else could I try?
Just removed the FITV and i was able to turn the white plunger thing at least 2 times around before i tightened it..removed the battery cable for a few minutes, gonna reattach it and see if that fixed it...Now I notice though that the FITV hole inside the TB has hardly any suction after warm up and the IACV has alot of suction...Is this the correct functionality?
Ok, the idle doesnt climb up anymore when I take it out of gear, but when I come to a stop its still dropping to just about zero (0) and it almost shuts off,,,plus its still surging at 35mph just doesnt seem to be jerking as hard as before..What else could I try?
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Inside the TB are the 2 holes for the FITV and IACV. I read after the car warms up there shouldnt really be any type of suction from the FITV hole (bottom hole in TB). Well mine was sucking like a fat girl sucking on a McDonalds shake after warm up, does this mean the FITV is not working correctly and would this be causing my idle problems? Also the IACV had hardly any suction after warm up, is that correct? It had the same suction as the FITV until it warmed up.
Just removed the FITV and i was able to turn the white plunger thing at least 2 times around before i tightened it..removed the battery cable for a few minutes, gonna reattach it and see if that fixed it...Now I notice though that the FITV hole inside the TB has hardly any suction after warm up and the IACV has alot of suction...Is this the correct functionality?
Ok, the idle doesnt climb up anymore when I take it out of gear, but when I come to a stop its still dropping to just about zero (0) and it almost shuts off,,,plus its still surging at 35mph just doesnt seem to be jerking as hard as before..What else could I try?
Just removed the FITV and i was able to turn the white plunger thing at least 2 times around before i tightened it..removed the battery cable for a few minutes, gonna reattach it and see if that fixed it...Now I notice though that the FITV hole inside the TB has hardly any suction after warm up and the IACV has alot of suction...Is this the correct functionality?
Ok, the idle doesnt climb up anymore when I take it out of gear, but when I come to a stop its still dropping to just about zero (0) and it almost shuts off,,,plus its still surging at 35mph just doesnt seem to be jerking as hard as before..What else could I try?
The IACV may still be sticking, partially clogged, or dying. If you still have the other IACV I would try it and see if anything changes. Are all the wires and grounds intact?
Bucking at part throttle is usually attributed to a misfire.
Pull the plugs and verify they are not wet or running rich. A lean misfire may occur if your EGR system is plugged with soot and carbon, cleaning it out will remove the bucking issue. This usually happens to cars with over 100Kmiles.
Check the FAQ on how to clean out the EGR ports.
Bucking at part throttle is usually attributed to a misfire.
Pull the plugs and verify they are not wet or running rich. A lean misfire may occur if your EGR system is plugged with soot and carbon, cleaning it out will remove the bucking issue. This usually happens to cars with over 100Kmiles.
Check the FAQ on how to clean out the EGR ports.
The IACV may still be sticking, partially clogged, or dying. If you still have the other IACV I would try it and see if anything changes. Are all the wires and grounds intact?
Bucking at part throttle is usually attributed to a misfire.
Pull the plugs and verify they are not wet or running rich. A lean misfire may occur if your EGR system is plugged with soot and carbon, cleaning it out will remove the bucking issue. This usually happens to cars with over 100Kmiles.
Check the FAQ on how to clean out the EGR ports.
Bucking at part throttle is usually attributed to a misfire.
Pull the plugs and verify they are not wet or running rich. A lean misfire may occur if your EGR system is plugged with soot and carbon, cleaning it out will remove the bucking issue. This usually happens to cars with over 100Kmiles.
Check the FAQ on how to clean out the EGR ports.
Locally when purchasing a Japanese low mileage import engine all that the end buyer receives is the long block. No ancillaries or intake/exhaust manifolds. Are you reusing your original intake or did your engine come with intake/exhaust manifold?
I just went to the junkyard and grabbed another IACV. Ill be putting it on tomorrow when it stops raining
Well, you never checked your iacv filter but I guess if the used iacv has a clean filter you'll be good to go, you'll just be out however much it costs for that potentially unneeded part.
Ok, just cleaned out the IAC and FITV, but still having the same problems. Idle will increase when I take it out of gear and it still surges at 35mph..
Side note** I did notice on the FITV that when i had tightened it down that no air was passing thru it. I had read on a previous post about cleaning the fitv that when the valve is at room temp and the plunger is snug'd down that you would blow thru the hole where you can see the spring and air was supposed to come out of the plunger, but mine was sealed tight, no air coming thru...Could this be a problem?
**UPDATE**
Heres what i notice..As im in neutral and slowing down the idle is slowly climbing. Once the car comes to a complete stop the idle will drop.
Also, after doing the cleaning im now having coolant shoot out thru the reserve reservoir when i come to a stop..
Side note** I did notice on the FITV that when i had tightened it down that no air was passing thru it. I had read on a previous post about cleaning the fitv that when the valve is at room temp and the plunger is snug'd down that you would blow thru the hole where you can see the spring and air was supposed to come out of the plunger, but mine was sealed tight, no air coming thru...Could this be a problem?
**UPDATE**
Heres what i notice..As im in neutral and slowing down the idle is slowly climbing. Once the car comes to a complete stop the idle will drop.
Also, after doing the cleaning im now having coolant shoot out thru the reserve reservoir when i come to a stop..
Last edited by Mario Locatelli; Oct 10, 2013 at 04:22 PM.
And as holmesnmanny said, check the IACV filter.
After removing the FITV did you make sure there was no air in the cooling system by turning the heater to full hot and opening the bleed valve?
If you have more FITV related questions I would suggest bumping the FAQ writeup as the title/sticky may get more looks/hits/answers.
I think the next step is to have the EGR ports checked
I did check the IACV filter I soaked and cleaned that thing today.
No I did not make sure there was no air in their.
The other question i had was about the FITV..when i snugged it down I wasnt able to blow any air thru it. Is that norm? Or did i read the post wrong?
I did check the IACV filter I soaked and cleaned that thing today.
No I did not make sure there was no air in their.
The other question i had was about the FITV..when i snugged it down I wasnt able to blow any air thru it. Is that norm? Or did i read the post wrong?
Any time the cooling system has been opened bleed that bad boy.
There are 250 posts, which one in particular are you referring to?
IIRC how the FITV works, when cold it opens a port to allow air to bypass the throttle body blades. This added air is what causes the high idle to occur, when the FITV warms up it will close this port preventing the high idle. So if you cannot blow through the port then it most likely is correctly working.
IIRC how the FITV works, when cold it opens a port to allow air to bypass the throttle body blades. This added air is what causes the high idle to occur, when the FITV warms up it will close this port preventing the high idle. So if you cannot blow through the port then it most likely is correctly working.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...1844067&page=2
Post #47 by GHOSTACCORD
There is a way to test your FIT Valve while you have it off your throttle body for cleaning.
When the FITV is at air temperature/cold it will allow air to pass throught. I clean mine off and just blow into the side with the spring visable and it should come out the opening with the cream/white seal, I always take the hands on approach....lol

Notice the position of the spring in the above image you can see a coil or two.
Now to perform the test all you need is a tap running hot water. With just enough water to pass through the FITV hold it under the hot water flow for at least 2-3 min.

After a few minutes you should notice that the spring will tighten as shown in the image below (if the FITV is working) To test simply try to pass air throught the openings again. If the seals are good and the FITV is working properly no air should pass through.

Note: This is a FIT Valve off of a D15b. Not all FITV will appear exactly as shown, but they will allow for the water to flow through in a similar matter.
When the FITV is at air temperature/cold it will allow air to pass throught. I clean mine off and just blow into the side with the spring visable and it should come out the opening with the cream/white seal, I always take the hands on approach....lol

Notice the position of the spring in the above image you can see a coil or two.
Now to perform the test all you need is a tap running hot water. With just enough water to pass through the FITV hold it under the hot water flow for at least 2-3 min.

After a few minutes you should notice that the spring will tighten as shown in the image below (if the FITV is working) To test simply try to pass air throught the openings again. If the seals are good and the FITV is working properly no air should pass through.

Note: This is a FIT Valve off of a D15b. Not all FITV will appear exactly as shown, but they will allow for the water to flow through in a similar matter.
When the valve is cold the spring will allow the port to be open for the air bypass/high(cold) idle.

When the engine/coolant warms up the spring will close the valve and no air will bypass/low(hot) idle.

To requote JimBlake...
IACV controls idle, if it fluctuates check teh IACV, look for vacuum leaks be it hoses, gaskets, cracked manifold.
FITV is merely a cold idle control. If the idle is stuck high and the temp gauge reads normal, then the FITV is stuck open.
Best bet would just to reinstall it and verify that the idle is no longer high.
Part throttle missing, if the plugs/wires/cap/rotor/timing are fine then I would suspect the EGR ports are plugged. When cruising on the street at 30MPH fully warmed up does the car have a light knocking/pinging? If so EGR ports are plugged.

When the engine/coolant warms up the spring will close the valve and no air will bypass/low(hot) idle.

To requote JimBlake...
How about a functional test installed in the car.
FITV's job is to provide a fast-idle when the engine's cold.
If the idle is high & slows down properly as it warms up, the FITV is doing it's job.
There should be no suction from the FITV port after it's warmed up.
IACV's job is to hold a steady idle when other stuff turns on & off.
After it's warmed up, the idle should be steady when you turn anything on & off.
- AC, headlights, wipers, defogger, seat heaters, whatever.
In other words, if you have a nice happy idle when you're done with all this stuff, then both IACV & FITV are OK.
FITV's job is to provide a fast-idle when the engine's cold.
If the idle is high & slows down properly as it warms up, the FITV is doing it's job.
There should be no suction from the FITV port after it's warmed up.
IACV's job is to hold a steady idle when other stuff turns on & off.
After it's warmed up, the idle should be steady when you turn anything on & off.
- AC, headlights, wipers, defogger, seat heaters, whatever.
In other words, if you have a nice happy idle when you're done with all this stuff, then both IACV & FITV are OK.
FITV is merely a cold idle control. If the idle is stuck high and the temp gauge reads normal, then the FITV is stuck open.
Best bet would just to reinstall it and verify that the idle is no longer high.
Part throttle missing, if the plugs/wires/cap/rotor/timing are fine then I would suspect the EGR ports are plugged. When cruising on the street at 30MPH fully warmed up does the car have a light knocking/pinging? If so EGR ports are plugged.
Thats what im saying..When it was cold it wasnt letting any air pass thru it. When i turned the car on the suction in the TB for the FITV was very minimal.
And when cruising at 35-37mph the car surges and jerks
Im just gonna hit the junkyard in the morning and grab another FITV...
btw...off topic..how can i change my "name". I dont like it saying my real full name
I don't think this is related to the FITV. Only when the throttle blade is closed will the IACV or FITV have any affect on the engine speed. Once the blade is cracked the air will flow through the path of least resistance, which is past the open throttle blade. If you are at a steady state part-throttle cruise and the car bucks, and the bucking goes away at idle, or at WOT then I would suspect the EGR system.
The one that has me stumped it the idle increasing as i drop it into neutral while coming to a stop and then as i make a complete stop the idle dropping to almost nothing and then up to normal.'
Just wanna thank you again for your help
check your base idle....unplug the iacv connector with the car completely warmed up...the rpms should drop to around 600. Keep in mind that the very first big white line after 0 rpms is 500 rpms not 200 rpms.
also make sure that the throttle plate completely closes when the car is at idle and that the throttle cable has a little bit of slack in it and isn't too tight.
also make sure that the throttle plate completely closes when the car is at idle and that the throttle cable has a little bit of slack in it and isn't too tight.
Mine was doing the same thing and couldent find the problem then I started playing with those to wires that clip onto ur valve cover and my rpms would rise and drop with the different postions I put them in I realised the wire was loose I not sure but I thinks its the throttle cable I tightened it up and my car wouldent surg out and the idle went to purrfect try that see if it helps



