I am looking at getting my car back together and I am going to start by buying a brand new C5 block from the factory and pairing it up with my fully built head. I have a set of Tuner 3s from my previous setup that I am wanting to put in this set up but will they be too much?

Full specs of build-
Brand new C5 block from Acura
B16 head with a competition port/polish by Alaniz milled but unknown how much
Supertech valve train
Upgraded new style LMAs with about 3k on them
Old school skunk intake manifold worked over by Alaniz
Skunk 70mm TB
3inch AEM intake
Headertech header
2.5 inch straight through exhaust
RC 440s
Few other goodies

 

they'll work, but I would guess that the stage2s will be a bit more efficient.

 

I would rather use these if I could, that is if it will work with the set up. I have them so I figured why not use them, if I can't I would have to sell them and add cash on top for another set. The money for the new ones could go towards my head gasket and studs.

 

in for dyno #'s

 

TBone made up to 20whp horsepower going from the Tuner3s to the Tuner2s. (Buddy Club Spec 4s are the exact same VTEC lobe as tuner 2s)

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/buddyclub-stage-4-vs-skunk-stage-3-dynos-inside-www-bristoldyno-com-1019995/

I've never really seen very good results from the tuner 3s. Too much lift, not enough duration. I don't think they'll make for a very good powerband in this motor. I'd see if anyone will trade you for a stage 2 cam.

 

I do have a skunk 2 Stage 2 intake cam, wonder if I could pair it up with the tuner 3 exhaust cam.

 

Just ordered the new short block from Acura. Will be starting the install in a few weeks.

 

I have a friend who made extremely good power on his stock 1.8 bottom end with tuner3.
He owns a dyno so he had the time and perfect tool to find the best working bolt on combo I/H/E.
I personally would recommens the tuner2 due to the little bit hotter primaries and smaller VTEC lobe. It should perform a lot better in overall IMO.
From your list: very good setup, only swap RC injectors to ID or RDX and not sure the competition head is optimal for U.

 

The injectors and head came off my fully built 2.2 LSV build. I spun a bearing a few months ago and an working with what I have which would be the head, cams and injectors and everything else on the list. I am wanting to get the car running with reliability being the #1 goal and power being the #2 goal. I am tired of tweaking a fully built set up so I am going back to basics which is why I went with an OEM block from the factory.

The head is getting checked out right now, doing a full tear down and checking everything out. I am sending the RC injectors to RC tomorrow to get cleaned, tested and balanced. I am putting in a brand new clutch and everything for the motor is going to be new from the factory. I plan on selling the car maybe 5-6 months after the build is done, I just had a daughter and need something bigger. I figure with everything that I have in the car if the buyer treats it right there is no reason they can't get 100K miles out of it.

 

Here's my previous build. RIP

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/my-86x89-lsv-build-3104605/

 

You want to do the opposite smaller exhaust cam

 

So this build is a go, will be starting a new thread soon. The new block came in today along with the new clutch from LSD and the injectors from getting checked by RC. Should have this up and running in a week or so, depending on time between work and school.

 

Ended up pulling in 210whp and 137wtq.

 

tooo much cam, lets see the graph

 

Graphs don't matter. Only peak numbers from Church Automotive.

 

Dick

Yea I know it's too much cam, you guys said it, I knew it going in and the tuner said the same thing given the compression. I left the head as it was on my 85mm LSV, just took it to the shop had him freshen it up. I already had the cams and didn't want to deal with selling them just to buy new ones. My very first build many many years ago made 200 with the same head so anything more than that was a gift.

I should mention that I fucked up and left my high flow cat on, forgot to swap in the test pipe.

I have a video and picts of the graph but no print out, the tuner just got the dyno set up in his new shop and wasn't able to print it out. I am thinking about going back to a local guy for 3 runs just for a print out given that I got the car together so I could sell it.

 

Phone > upload to image host > post

 

You got my vote

 

Did Jeremy tune this?

 

If you can't see the video let me know and I'll put it up on youtube.

The blue run is with a short ram and velocity stack. As you can see it KILLED from like 3500 up.

The red run is the tune that came with the new phearable.net ecu I picked up after my old one took a dump. Good thing I took it in for a tune before getting on it. Figured being in the business as long as they have they would have done a better job, and yes, I know it's a baseline tune.

Green run is with my 3 inch AEM intake and velocity stack. It got freaking murdered by the short ram.

Video- http://s1188.photobucket.com/user/NU...29bcf.mp4.html

 

Maybe, why do you ask?

 

what cam set up did you end up using?

 

Kept the tuner 3s. Didn't want to have to deal with selling them and buying new ones.

 

Noticed you were in the bay, and I know he just go the Dyno in last weekend.

Nice numbers.

 

Phearable, does basemaps for a reason, allows you to drive and get where you need to be to get tuned. Its not a "tuned" map. Period.