(EDIT: Would the CKF Bypass trick solve this problem!? Is that option #2? Option #1 being a JDM OBD1 ECU with OBD2b to OBD1 wiring adapter

after revisiting Katman's wiring/engine thread for 6 or 7th time, I checked out the updated CKF Bypass trick thread. I have the codes 54 CKF and 9 CYP that are said to be caused by this scenario and solved by the Bypass trick. I also have code 23 KS (knock sensor) and 22 VTP (vtec pressure switch) - would these later two be a symptom of the first two/ecu.)

Hey Honda heads,

So I have spent a great deal of time researching my specific issue but I feel as though I still need to ask here for better verification. I have looked at probably every chart/thread about engine and ecu codes and compatibility you could suggest. When I call a shop/vendor or go from chart to chart, I sometimes find conflicting info (or a guy who doesn't know what I'm asking or what he's saying). Please apply "correct me if I'm wrong" to this entire post.

I believe my problem is my ECU..?

I recently bought a 2000 Civic SiR (Canadian here). The owner has swapped in a "B16A SiR II" (B16A Gen. 2. not A1, A2, etc) and says that's all that's been changed. So the engine wiring harness and ECU are still the stock 2000 SiR.

Using the internet here is what I've come to think/know I have going on:
-Engine: B16A SiR-II (which is true JDM) OBD1
-Engine Wiring Harness: OBD2b (stock 2000 civic SiR)
-ECU: P2T-012 (stock 2000 civic SiR) OBD2b - right?

The car runs ok, and has allegedly done so for the three years prior to me buying it from him. But there's always been a CEL, and when I asked why - his answer "..I duno.. wrong engine.." made sense to me. Hah.

Now last week I had a problem where Vtec wouldnt kick in, or just as it did it cut out, something to do with RPM cut off maybe.
So I get a paperclip and a flashlight to check my CEL codes.
My CEL codes are:

9 - No. 1 cylinder position sensor
22 - Vtec pressure valve/solenoid/switch
23 - Knock sensor
54 - Crank fluctuation sensor

I (and mechanic friend) thought it pretty odd that these four major sensors would be 'gone bad'. So I immediately thought it's an ECU type problem.

So many questions, if the answer is simple sorry for all this. *edit: could this be a dist. wiring prob too?*

1) Given what I've said is in the car what is my solution?
Phearable.net said "...CEL is on while using the P2T ECU for sensors your B16A SiR-II engine doesn't have. The best option would be an OBD2b to OBD1 jumper harness and chipped OBD1 ecu."
I'm assume the OBD1 ecu they're suggesting I use with jumper does not need to be chipped - but they sell chipped ones so..
This is actually what I was thinking the solution was before I was confused again buy a mechanic who said I have to take apart this and that and see if the guy who swapped the B16A in changed the CPS and distributor wire. I had already told him "the guys just swapped in the engine, using stock harness in the car. that's all".

2) Why is this setup with the stock P2T ECU even working now connection wise? If it's OBD2b and the engine is OBD1? Is it because the wiring harness is OBD2b, and the actual connector from the wiring harness to the ecu is the same?
-also wiki (I know) lists P2T as being JDM. It says the B16A2 (stock for the 2000 Canadian civic SiR) had a JDM P2T, which is confusing because why would it be a JDM ECU for a Canadian civic SiR/US Si, a car never produced for outside north america OR a USDM P30 which is confusing for several reasons - mainly because "how would another P30 (JDM or not) solve the ECU issue then?

3) Compatibility wise - what is the problem here. Is it regional - JDM versus USDM etc. Or is it OBD generation compatibility problem? ..Both? Something else - like just correct ECU i.e.: "P30" cause again, wiki suggests that at least some B16A2's ran P30 ECUs...kinda.
-For example if all I need is the proper ECU (and wiring adapter obviously), lets say its a P30, will JDM over USDM make a difference. I know(?) the OBD version WILL and I know there are different OBD generations for the SAME model ECU's for some. Does it matter what it came from?

I hope y'all didn't HAVE to read to the very bottom of this, haha. Hopefully it's evident what I need and I have given enough information.

I'll post a pic soon as I have permission :p

 

Use a real OBD2 scanner on the OBD2 scan port to pull the codes and see if the same ones come up as with the paperclip method.

 

it is using stock harness and ecu because he swapped all the accessories over from the old motor. the only issue from that should be the CKF (crank fluctuation sensor) since jdm motors don't have them. you can do the ckf bypass.

knock sensor: confirm it is there and plugged in. if so, you'll need to check the wiring.

vtec pressure switch: it is there, you can see it under the distributor. (it is green). check wiring. if ok, then check oil pressure.

CYP aka cylinder position sensor: it is in the distributor, common problem with aftermarket distributors.

 

7rrivera7 - Got codes from OBD2 reader today (friend at shop said reading took a little long).

Codes:
P0325 (knock sensor circuit malfunction - bank 1 or single sensor) had this code more than once, ks.
P1337 (Engine Speed (RPM) Fluctuation Sensor No Signal)

So - those are like the same equivalent codes essentially aren't they?

Kyden - By "stock EWH" I meant it has the stock OBD2b wiring harness.. from the EM1 2000 civic SiR (or your us SI). He didn't swap EWH.

-You're saying I can do CKF bypass; should that solve these codes?
-KS; I was under the impression that JDM engines (at least of this vintage) do NOT have a KS..? Hence it's trying to read a sensor that isn't there - like the CKF.
-VTPS; wasn't sure by the wiring/swap article if i'd have one/need to wire it.
-CYP; I will check for it tonight

I will look into all these things tonight provided I can still use friends garage - it's cold and pouring.

So I had a second look around at the ECU area while looking for OBD2 connector cause I remembered seeing a strange wire. Here are pics (and explanation):
pic 1 - green wire that leads into small blue connector had a bit of shrink wrap material (i took it off today)
pic 3 - doesn't really look like the green wire is "in" that securely
pic 4 & 5 - that's the other side of the broken wire, it was in the glove box on the left side, I pulled it out a bit
Then I kinda lose it behind console
pic 6 - wire comes past that unknown green connector and travels up over the steering column and, I think, I lose it there.
So I don't know if it comes out of the firewall and rejoins another run/loom - the green wire in the engine bay in the pic 8 has a black stripe, unlike this one, and I duno what that grey cap is capping of (connector)
pic 7 - Really Weird; There is a green wire that runs into where a friggin fuse is supposed to go!? WTF is that all about. I duno if THAT is the green wire that I lose when it goes up by the steering column (if it comes back down into that fuse socket) or if that wire went out the firewall.

Anybody know what that green wire (or the wires in that lil blue connector) is for? VTPS maybe? lol.
Thanks.

 

Just noticed this lil connector running along this loom, not connected to anything, behind the glove box door.

 

Haven't solved the ECU riddle yet but I plan on trying an OBD1 (chipped or not haven't decided) and an adapter harness.

The more I traced the the wires the more stuff I found up there, but I got it all removed and sorted.

Thanks for the advice guys.

I still have to get a TB kit; belt, w. pump etc. Before I even ask, if there is a forum/thread for those with JDM engines (b16A) only that lists parts #'s for those parts that are not the same as USDM.
I thought water pump and T-belt were two such parts.

-L

 

hello, recently I bought a civic si 00 to completely restore... I wasn't fully informed of what I bought, when I lowered the engine I realized that it wasn't entirely the original, it turns out to be a jdm b16a g1 but the harness and ecu is the original of the EM1 SI 00 (obd2b, ecu p2t) and looking for information to do my restoration well I found this thread and many more where it is said that the ecu p2t does not work well with the b16 jdm due to the absence of sensors that yes I had the usdm b16... my question is. "Were you able to fix the problem with p2t or did you opt for obd1 with an adapter? (Is Hondata worth it on p2t to resolve the codes and get the most out of the engine?).

bielas = pr3 #1
block = pr3 #1
head = pr3 #1