80 lbs of torque at the lugnuts!?!?!?!?!
Ok 2 weeks ago, i rotated my tires and i tightenened my lugnuts at 80 ft lbs of torque. yerterday, i was cruisin down the 101N freeway and i heard some nasty grindin noises comin from my front left tire......i pulled ova immediately and noticed that the lugnuts were loooOOOOOoooOOoOSe!!!!!!!!!!!! to a point where u can take them off with fingers....oh my i fainted. and after i woke up, i tightened it. what happened??
On aluminum and mag wheels, you are supposed to tighten it to the preset amount... and then retighten it after 25 miles or so. I just crank mine down to whatever the impact wrench takes to. (200ft/lbs or so) I've never had a problem with that.
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overtightening is a contributing factor to warpped rotors, FYI.
true on all counts, don't over tighten too much, and you have to check again after 75 miles so so... but honestly, 80lbs is plenty unless you have the wrong type of seating nuts... or a bad torque wrench.
and FYI, there is no such thing as a "warped rotor" on the face of this planet. Try doing a RESEARCH.
No such thing as a warped rotor, huh? I'd love to see your research.
there is a such thing as warped rotors why do u think that honda has those 2 lil screws that hold the rotor on there??? thats hondas way of stopping the rotors from warping.....what planet r u from...u really shouldnt speak on things unless u know what ur talkin bout...iaght cheif
there is a such thing as warped rotors why do u think that honda has those 2 lil screws that hold the rotor on there??? thats hondas way of stopping the rotors from warping.....what planet r u from...u really shouldnt speak on things unless u know what ur talkin bout...iaght cheif
Irregardless of wether or not rotors warp. those 2 little screws do not keep them from warping or anything else. they are there to keep the rotor in place on the assembly line.
80 ft lbs and re-torque in a couple of weeks. Hell I torque them every couple weeks, it only takes a minute (and never-ever found one to be loose).
Also wheels and lugs have either flat, rounded, or taped seating surfaces, so make sure your wheels and lugs match. A very common problem is that OE Honda lugs are rounded, they work well with many aftermarket wheels, but it seems most aftermarket wheels perfer a tapered lug.
Also wheels and lugs have either flat, rounded, or taped seating surfaces, so make sure your wheels and lugs match. A very common problem is that OE Honda lugs are rounded, they work well with many aftermarket wheels, but it seems most aftermarket wheels perfer a tapered lug.
overtightening is a contributing factor to warpped rotors, FYI.
and FYI, there is no such thing as a "warped rotor" on the face of this planet. Try doing a RESEARCH.
and FYI, there is no such thing as a "warped rotor" on the face of this planet. Try doing a RESEARCH.
I've gotta question: I need to replace my lugs. Do they have to be machine pressed or can they just be hammered in & out? 1995 accord wagon ex w/abs if that matters
[Modified by sparknblaze, 2:34 PM 10/27/2002]
[Modified by sparknblaze, 2:34 PM 10/27/2002]
You mean the studs?
Easy pound out and in with a 5-lb hammer, but the hard part is getting the hub off and on. Well, rear is easy, front can be harder.
Some people do it leaving the hub on the car and torquing nuts on the studs until they are seated. I think in the end the remove-hub-and-hammer method is less infuriating.
Edit: What you don't want to do is use the hammer method with the hubs on the car... you'll really shorten the life of your wheel bearings with the pounding.
[Modified by 4doorH22, 1:42 PM 10/27/2002]
Easy pound out and in with a 5-lb hammer, but the hard part is getting the hub off and on. Well, rear is easy, front can be harder.
Some people do it leaving the hub on the car and torquing nuts on the studs until they are seated. I think in the end the remove-hub-and-hammer method is less infuriating.
Edit: What you don't want to do is use the hammer method with the hubs on the car... you'll really shorten the life of your wheel bearings with the pounding.
[Modified by 4doorH22, 1:42 PM 10/27/2002]
Oh there is such a thing as a real warped rotor, but it's usually due to a very, very, very, very rare manufacturing or assembly defect.
Hey... My mechanic said the hub on my car has to be machine pressed on/off. True/false? 1995 accord wagon.
Hey... My mechanic said the hub on my car has to be machine pressed on/off. True/false? 1995 accord wagon.
this thread makes me want to shoot myself.
Yea...pretty fuggin weak thread...no such thing as warped rotors?? what r u thinking...
Some clarity:
warped rotors are more generally due to over heating
overtorquing the lugs has a larger problem on snapping/breaking your studs then it does on anything else...
And directly back to the original post..
When you put on new wheels, you torque at 80-85 ft*lbs then a day later or so, you re-torque them. (this is especially important on new wheels and 17"+ wheels)
Some clarity:
warped rotors are more generally due to over heating
overtorquing the lugs has a larger problem on snapping/breaking your studs then it does on anything else...
And directly back to the original post..
When you put on new wheels, you torque at 80-85 ft*lbs then a day later or so, you re-torque them. (this is especially important on new wheels and 17"+ wheels)
this thread makes me want to shoot myself.
BTW, who's stopping you?
Hey... My mechanic said the hub on my car has to be machine pressed on/off. True/false? 1995 accord wagon.
True.
True.


