tricks for faster engine swap
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B*a*n*n*e*d
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From: sea,WA in my car
Mostly for b series but in general
The only one i came up with is drilling a hole for a socket in front of the 3rd bolt for driver side mount so i dont have to remove crank pulley to swap the mount bracket from one engine to another
If its in the car i put a 17 or 19mm short socket on a wrench and heat it up then press it until it melts through the t belt bottom cover to get acess to that bolt.
And i use the plastic IM gasket so i can remove the manifold and drop the engine on a tray easier
I also put antiseize on shift linkage pin every time i install it.
But now i machined a bolt with locking nut to hold it in place
The only one i came up with is drilling a hole for a socket in front of the 3rd bolt for driver side mount so i dont have to remove crank pulley to swap the mount bracket from one engine to another
If its in the car i put a 17 or 19mm short socket on a wrench and heat it up then press it until it melts through the t belt bottom cover to get acess to that bolt.
And i use the plastic IM gasket so i can remove the manifold and drop the engine on a tray easier
I also put antiseize on shift linkage pin every time i install it.
But now i machined a bolt with locking nut to hold it in place
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idk wh some of you choose to remove **** before hand. remove wire harness, coolant hoses, remove mounts, drop linkage w/swap done deal, remove all acc after engine is out and have WAY more room to R&R stuff
Thread Starter
B*a*n*n*e*d
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,222
Likes: 2
From: sea,WA in my car
I do all that along with manifold.
is there a coolnt drain plug that has a bleeder attachment so it doesn't run allover the block when I take it off?
is there a coolnt drain plug that has a bleeder attachment so it doesn't run allover the block when I take it off?
I think I had my engine out within 2 hours this last time I did it.
First thing i did was get the car up in the air, pop the passanger lower ball joint, and slip the axle out of the transmission, then I pulled out the harness, distributor, drained the radiator and removed it, shift linkage, unbolted the header and got it out of the way, then hooked a strap around the intake and on the transmission, yanked it out real easy after that.
It seems that the more small **** you yank out loke the harness and radiator the easier it comes out.
This is for a da integra btw
First thing i did was get the car up in the air, pop the passanger lower ball joint, and slip the axle out of the transmission, then I pulled out the harness, distributor, drained the radiator and removed it, shift linkage, unbolted the header and got it out of the way, then hooked a strap around the intake and on the transmission, yanked it out real easy after that.
It seems that the more small **** you yank out loke the harness and radiator the easier it comes out.
This is for a da integra btw
If using a hoist to remove the swap I always make sure to allow the trans to hang lower than the engine. It allows the trans case to slip past the frame rail without gouging anything.
Coolant is always a mess. I try to drain as much as possible before attempting to move the block around. Easier way to minimize the mess ( still going to make one ) is to loop the hoses back onto the open coolant ports to close them up.
I agree that it's easier to mess with accessories when the engine is out. However, if a car has ac and power steering the cost of fluid and freon adds up every time. So I usually unbolt the compressor and ps pump and brackets before removing the engine. I usually zip tie the compressor to the core support, and I'll just swing the ps pump over the driver shock tower. The ps stuff can get it the way if you do this step first, and there is a good chance some fluid will leak out of the reservoir.
Coolant is always a mess. I try to drain as much as possible before attempting to move the block around. Easier way to minimize the mess ( still going to make one ) is to loop the hoses back onto the open coolant ports to close them up.
I agree that it's easier to mess with accessories when the engine is out. However, if a car has ac and power steering the cost of fluid and freon adds up every time. So I usually unbolt the compressor and ps pump and brackets before removing the engine. I usually zip tie the compressor to the core support, and I'll just swing the ps pump over the driver shock tower. The ps stuff can get it the way if you do this step first, and there is a good chance some fluid will leak out of the reservoir.
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