I was just wondering what would happen if I put my VTEC solenoid on a direct switch and had it on at all times on my F22B1

 

This is literally, and I mean literally the absolute most stupid ******* thread I've ever witnessed with my eyes. Please, for the love of everything good sell your car and go buy a bicycle.

 

Your car would run like *** with VTEC on at all times.
It's a progressive system for a reason.

 

But, but. Racecar?

 

Spelled backwards is still racecaR. But with the R at the end is sooo much more badass. Like a whale tail wing.

 

Wait, so you mean if I put R badges on my car it will go faster?

 

VTEC requires oil pressure. There's more to locking VTEC than electrical power.

 

Idiots, the new Accords have their cars programmed to run Vtec all the way through hard acceleration, why would this be bad Idea to try to replicate in some way?

"]Because of the ability to maintain activation of the VTEC system all the way through hard acceleration, the Accord EX V6 6-speed ran from 0-60 MPH in just 5.9 seconds according to Car and Driver, more than a second faster than the automatic version. For 2006, Honda offered this engine and transmission combination in the sedan, which only lasted through 2007."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_A...2.80.932007.29



Read up before you thrash someone for trying to be innovative.

 

Last time I checked, a f22b1 is NOT an Accord EX V6 that is programmed and designed to have vtec on all the time. It's not even a dual cam motor.

 

Yeah but I am sure someone can (if they're smart enough) come up with a way to replicate the new Vtec system to run in the old cars.

 

Yeah, you can use a switch like the OP is hoping for.

All it will do is ruin your motor. No big deal.

 

Nah, I mean someone did some hard study and research and figured out a way to make it reliably work at lower rpms during hard acceleration.

With custom fabrication anything is possible... and with enough money lol.

 

DUH! Don't forget fender escutcheons for that bling.
If that were the case then Bisimoto would be selling VTEC override kits rather than regrinding old B1 cams.

Low lift cam for lower rpm performance.
High lift cam for higher rpm performance.

The wikipedia reference is weak sauce at best.
'Because of the ability to maintain activation of the VTEC system all the way through hard acceleration...' What does that mean exactly? Hard acceleration? It sounds like magazine/salesman blowhard gibberish.

The purpose of VTEC is to smoothly transition from low to high rpm capabilities while maintaining a linear power increase. Unlike a typical non VTEC(et al) engine where high end power or low end torque is sacrificed, Honda attempts to create a constant power increase through the power band.

Now if someone were to purchase one of those Buddy Club VTEC controllers and show on a stock B1 how VTEC always on is an improvement through dyno testing I'm all eyes & ears. But I doubt there would be much if any in improvement over the factory programed settings. I can easily see the car running worse at below optimum VTEC on setting.

 

This is the original post.

You know less than most of the people coming on asking for help that admit not knowing anything and you're trying to educate people on here. It's kinda absurd but your goal is just to get a rise out of people.

Good job with another thread derailment.

 

Lol

 

"Pride only breeds quarrels, but wisdom is found in those who take advice." Proverbs 13:10


Why don't you learn to take your own advice you have in your "About Me" section. You're very quarrelsome and full of pride.

 

You are literally one of the most idiotic people I've ever met. How shocking that you chimed in on this post. There's a reason VTEC is there and it is NOT for low end torque.

2nd that, have fun blowing up your motor. Oh wait, you already did.

 

Quarrelsome? No. What you are talking about has already been done. Very extravagant procedure.

Converting over to that style of VTEC mechanism is not what the OP is talking about.

I've done what the OP is talking about with my race car. Race car, not street car.

 

instead of bashing... i'll explain why this isn't a great idea.

most early applications of VTEC like your 'B1 consist of two components. the first is the mechanical activation of the high-lift cam lobe via oil pressure from the open solenoid. the second, equally important component is the shift from "normal" ignition and fuel parameters to "VTEC" ignition and fuel parameters stored in the ECU. simply put there is a tune for "VTEC-off"and a tune for "VTEC-on."

so what will happen when you manual activate the solenoid without the associated "tune" activated in the ECU is your car will bog, sputter and loose power until you reach the point that VTEC normaly engages and everything will clear up and run fine.

My experience:
was working in a independant Honda shop durring college we had a GSR come in that was running poorly after a head rebuild. the car drove like the timing was off and the fuel injectors were clogged... until you went into the higher RPM and floored it. then it had great power and ran smoothly! what we found was that the machine shop that rebuilt it had no experience with these motors and had installed the pins and springs in the rocker arms incorrectly, essentially locking VTEC in all the time. Ran like a dream after we put them in the right way.

there is something known as "VTEC Killer" cams. the idea is that the "normal" lobe profiles are so aggressive that they opperate similarly to the VTEC lobe profile making VTEC redundant. of course something like this is accompanied with a suitible tune... and best for racing applications.

 

I'm not the one who boosts stock internals... Have fun blowing up your engine.

 

Stock F22B# does pretty well on stock internals. Good number of guys in 300+ whp on them.

 

Nothing wrong with boosting stock internals as long as your engine is healthy and have all your ducks in a row and are not shooting for the moon. ie: fuel, tuning, manifold design.. etc (yes, manifold design matters)

 

Its gonna blow up though eventually, could be 10,000 miles could be 100,000.
Stock pistons are not made for boost, even with a good tune you still are risking disaster. The ringlands will go out, the cast pistons are brittle not made for the pressures of boost. The high silicon content of the pistons makes them weaker. Heck even boosting with stock sleeves is a little risky.

 

Sure but for how long? Anyways let's not derail this thread anymore, its very rude to the OP.

 

Let me chime in. I run a switch like the OP is asking about. I don't switch it on till about 4k RPMs though because the engine bogs and runs like crap with it enabled below 3k RPMs. Sometime I will forget to turn it off and sit there wondering why the car is idling a little rough. Then I see the switch is on so I turn it off and idling returns to smoothness.

I have noticed the car is faster and louder running it this way with a non-vtec cpu. Maybe I'm leaning it out, doubt it looking at the black on my tailpipes, but I'm not going to give you a definite answer.

I've been running it like this for about 30k miles now so not sure what some were talking about blowing the motor. And I do run the car hard till almost 7k often. It does get tiresome at times to not just be able to hit the gas without fiddling with the switch. Just so it doesn't blow up tomorrow cause I said it's lasted this long, I don't recommend it though. I also run Mobil 1 oil and my rockers are nice and shiny (meaning internally tollerances are probably still pretty tight).