king Main&Rod Bearings?
every Honda engine I've seen with my own eyes (two of which I built) that used king bearings destroyed the crank journals within a few thousand miles.
every engine I've built that used ACL bearings has been bulletproof.
and all the above referred to engines spec'ed out perfectly for clearances on all journals when first assembled.
my own personal car saw 130k miles of extremely heavy abuse on acl bearings and when I took it apart both the bearings and the crank journals all looked brand spanking new still and showed no signs of wear at all visually or measured.
so yeah, I will never ever touch King bearings again. ACL at all times for me.
every engine I've built that used ACL bearings has been bulletproof.
and all the above referred to engines spec'ed out perfectly for clearances on all journals when first assembled.
my own personal car saw 130k miles of extremely heavy abuse on acl bearings and when I took it apart both the bearings and the crank journals all looked brand spanking new still and showed no signs of wear at all visually or measured.
so yeah, I will never ever touch King bearings again. ACL at all times for me.
I've used ACL, King, Clevite, Rock Auto bearing brands. Never had a bearing failure so long as the clearance was where I liked it. The few times I did have a bearing failure I didn't bother to check clearances in the first place.
Bearings vary slightly between most manufactures. The biggest difference I've seen are 3 layer and 4 layer bearings shell construction as well as different backing material construction. What does that mean to the average end user? Not a while lot. For someone who is looking for 600+ hp and 9.99's then bearing material and construction are critical. However the most crucial part is making sure the clearance is well within the set tolerance of the engines operating parameters. If not, that's where problems arise and it's always easiest to blame parts and machine shops.
Bearings vary slightly between most manufactures. The biggest difference I've seen are 3 layer and 4 layer bearings shell construction as well as different backing material construction. What does that mean to the average end user? Not a while lot. For someone who is looking for 600+ hp and 9.99's then bearing material and construction are critical. However the most crucial part is making sure the clearance is well within the set tolerance of the engines operating parameters. If not, that's where problems arise and it's always easiest to blame parts and machine shops.
Oh and some thing I've notice recently. King bearings have been giving me .0017-.0018 oil clearance on the last 3 sets I've used. ACL and Clevite have both been all over the place. Some giving me .0008-.0010 clearance and others .0022-.0025. I can't explain why, but I put together enough engines a year to see the difference.
lol at every motor that has had king bearings ruined the crank. I use king bearings in most of engines we build, being they are on the looser side of honda's fitting. Most of the time they are in the red thickness, acl's are usually in the green, which is in the middle of honda's oem. I'll use acl x's when I need more clearance than what the king's will give. Never have had any bearing issues with King, acl, clevite, or any. As long as you're checking your clearance, and the crank and rods are good I don't think you will have any problems. But OP, I like king's cause they're on the thinner end of oem.
that's just my experience. the sad part was the bearings came out looking new still in those motors, only the crank journals got destroyed. it was as if the bearings were made of harder metal than the crank, and had a rough texture and just ate right through the crank.
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Hmm. In my mind that's impossible. Bearing top layers are much softer than the crank journals. I've pulled engines apart that had copper showing on all mains and rods and yet the crank journals were still perfect and so were the rod tunnels and main tunnels. If the bearing were to have been worn past the copper layer it would have been metal to metal contact. Now we are talking about a steel backing against a hardened crank journal. That will cause some serious damage to the crank
Acl bearings or oem honda bearings are best to use. Ive used kings before and didn't liked how thy turned out.I've used acl with good results. I'd pay more for the xtra insurance and quality for longer lasting motor.
sorry to semi thread jack ya, but on same lines with a standard crank never touched do u guys like to start w/standard acl sized bearings or ????. i would think std to start point to check clearances, then go from there. i normall mic EVERY oem half shell but damn that gets old and seems "small" bit of waste of time for oem rebuild anymore
If you check ACL website they show the min/max diameters of both crankshaft journals and rod/main tunnel sizes. They also show the max crown height of the bearing shell halves.
Using those numbers as a reference, I'd mic the rod and main crank journals as well as the inside diameter of all rod big ends ( with cap torqued ) and the main bores ( with main caps torqued ). From there dertermine how much clearance the ACL bearing will give you.
Example:
#1 rod journal = 1.7712
#1 rod big end = 1.8903
Subtract the two and get .1191
Looking at the max crown height ACL lists the H series bearing at .0592 PERS SHELL. Take that number and multiply it by two, you are using two shell halves. We get 0.1184. So now we have
0.1191
-
0.1184
=
.0007
That would be the clearance of that particular rod/crank combo. The math is easy. Actually measuring the crank and rods is a different story. You need precision tools that read .0001 to be able to find these measurments.
But that's how I'd start a build.
Using those numbers as a reference, I'd mic the rod and main crank journals as well as the inside diameter of all rod big ends ( with cap torqued ) and the main bores ( with main caps torqued ). From there dertermine how much clearance the ACL bearing will give you.
Example:
#1 rod journal = 1.7712
#1 rod big end = 1.8903
Subtract the two and get .1191
Looking at the max crown height ACL lists the H series bearing at .0592 PERS SHELL. Take that number and multiply it by two, you are using two shell halves. We get 0.1184. So now we have
0.1191
-
0.1184
=
.0007
That would be the clearance of that particular rod/crank combo. The math is easy. Actually measuring the crank and rods is a different story. You need precision tools that read .0001 to be able to find these measurments.
But that's how I'd start a build.
I've used ACL, King, Clevite, Rock Auto bearing brands. Never had a bearing failure so long as the clearance was where I liked it. The few times I did have a bearing failure I didn't bother to check clearances in the first place.
Bearings vary slightly between most manufactures. The biggest difference I've seen are 3 layer and 4 layer bearings shell construction as well as different backing material construction. What does that mean to the average end user? Not a while lot. For someone who is looking for 600+ hp and 9.99's then bearing material and construction are critical. However the most crucial part is making sure the clearance is well within the set tolerance of the engines operating parameters. If not, that's where problems arise and it's always easiest to blame parts and machine shops.
Bearings vary slightly between most manufactures. The biggest difference I've seen are 3 layer and 4 layer bearings shell construction as well as different backing material construction. What does that mean to the average end user? Not a while lot. For someone who is looking for 600+ hp and 9.99's then bearing material and construction are critical. However the most crucial part is making sure the clearance is well within the set tolerance of the engines operating parameters. If not, that's where problems arise and it's always easiest to blame parts and machine shops.
But I would use steel-backed connecting rod bearings (ACL, Clevite, Honda P72) over an aluminum-backed bearing (King, Honda PR4) due to chance of high-rpm pound out.
I had a similar issue w/ King bearings. Spun rod bearings 2 times in a matter of 3 months on my boosted LSV setup. When I rebuilt the 3rd time I decided to run ACL bearings because they were available on the spot, not a week out and it ran fine...until I cracked a piston haha.
lol at every motor that has had king bearings ruined the crank. I use king bearings in most of engines we build, being they are on the looser side of honda's fitting. Most of the time they are in the red thickness, acl's are usually in the green, which is in the middle of honda's oem. I'll use acl x's when I need more clearance than what the king's will give. Never have had any bearing issues with King, acl, clevite, or any. As long as you're checking your clearance, and the crank and rods are good I don't think you will have any problems. But OP, I like king's cause they're on the thinner end of oem.
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gmacarize
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May 26, 2007 02:30 PM







